Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Added AVH-4100NEX - Reset?
Mar 6, 2016
I know this isn't the typical question, but I had this stereo put in last week and it went to the rear parking grid screen and I cannot get it to reset to factory settings using the reset button, disconnecting power, etc. How to get it to reset so I can restart the unit?
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I bought a 2003 F550 Super Duty 4WD, cab and chassis truck. It has a 7.3 TD. Real nice truck. I bought it to turn it into a wrecker. I removed the factory fuel tank (was behind the real axle inside the frame rails.) I installed a 50 gallon aluminum tank behind the cab on the frame rails. The rear tank has to be removed for the wheel lift.
Any way I have everything installed and now the truck dies out after a few minutes. It starts up fine then dies out like its starving for fuel. The tank I installed has a sump pickup (tank came off a freightliner, so its not some home made thing I just welded up in the garage)
I was thinking about installing an auxiliary lift pump as the auxiliary tank is a bit higher than the factory tank, but I want to solve the issue not throw parts at it. I thought at first injectors but it runs perfect after I prime it so my guess is its not the injectors.
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I have a 2007 King Ranch F250 that had 18" rims on it. I just put a new set of 2008 KR 20" tires & rims on my truck and now the ABS light is on. Does increasing the tire/rim size mess with the ABS? If so how can I remedy this?
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My 2004 F350 would not start yesterday, for the second time. I had just been driving it 30 minutes before, but when I tried to start it nothing happened. The dash light came on but nothing else, not even a click. Had to leave it overnight, and this morning it started completely normally. what this might be? It seems kind of like a relay or reset that was cut off and took time to reset itself. The first time it happened, it started up after 20 minutes, but yesterday it still wouldn't after an hour at which point I had to go to work so I don't know what the interval would have been if I could have stuck around and continued trying it.
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I'm having trouble resetting my oil life meter in my 16 F250. I think I'm doing exactly what the manual says but nothing is happening. I turn the ignition on and wait a second for the ford start up graphics to finish and then press the gas and brake at the same time as far as they will go. The manual says after 3 seconds I'll see a message saying the reset is in progress but I don't get any message on the screen. Am I doing something wrong?
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For those of you struggling like I was a few minutes ago... Here is a procedure that worked for me.
1. Key ON.
2. Select OK to get rid of OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message.
3. Scroll down to SETTINGS and push OK.
4. Scroll down to VEHICLE and push OK.
5. Scroll down to OIL LIFE RESET and push OK.
6. Scroll to any % other than what you want and push OK.
7. Scroll to what % you want and push OK.
8. Key OFF.
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Just replaced the alternator in my 1993 Ford F250. How do I reset my check engine light? It keeps coming on after I drive for roughly 5 to 10 minutes.
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I have reset my tire sensors twice and the low tire light would still come on, so I called the dealer today..he said you have to set the tire pressure to what is on the door jam.
65 psi front and 85 psi rear. I did not know that. I had been setting all to 65 psi.
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One of the super coils busted while driving my 2002 F250 Super Duty. I drove it for less than 100 ft. before parking it. It made a rapid "check,check,check,check" sound, which I'm assuming was mainly the coil smacking against other parts while loose. It busted near the point where it screws into the motor. I felt like I lost some compression as it drove sluggishly once broken, although I only drove for a very short time. I also thought I may have smelt a slight burning scent, or maybe oil, but didn't smell anything once I got out of my truck. Any problems I should look forward to other than simply replacing this coil?
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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I'm thinking of doing a dash swap on my 99 super duty to the 2008 super duty dash, steering wheel, etc. I know the od in my truck is mechanical and in the new one its electronical is it possible to swap without having to redue the whole electrical system and computer? Is the steering wheel going to line up and the ducting? How should i approach the wiring?
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I took out the PCM and there seemed to be no chip in it. But after I put the PCM back in, I think it reset it. Because the truck does not blow any black smoke, nor does it burn rubber when flooring it at a stop. But still seems just as zippy. But I'd like to know if there is a chip in the truck. Where would I go about searching for one. I've looked at everything and it all seems to be stock.
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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What kind of m.p.g. are you getting on this new diesel engine? I'm getting avg. of 14.5 driving half city and half highway at 65 m.p.h. and easy acceleration.
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like many of yous who own a 5.4 super duty and live where it gets cold during the winter knows that you usually loose a few MPG during the winter. Well its been in the mid 50's here in NJ for two weeks and I'm still only getting about 7.5 to 8 MPG! Now Ive read other post this winter so i know this is somewhat normal but come on! enough is enough even after two weeks of 50plus degree weather I'm still only getting 7-8 MPG? Even my brothers bone stock 05 F150 with the 5.4 is still getting 13mpg around town......
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I finally found my 7.3 dually with 6 sp and have got rid of my 6.0! But I have a problem in that I don't have any key fobs or chip keys that came with it. It is an XLT and the window sticker shows it came with them. Not sure just exactly what I need to do, program a fob or buy a key or what??? What are the right direction or tell me the steps I need to take?
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I just bought a 2008 f350 4wd with a 5.4... Check engine light is on. abs light also comes on sometimes. Since I plan on keeping this truck for awhile I have decided to buy a code scanner. Do they read the abs codes as well?
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Picked up my 2001 5.4 from the salvage yard last night and today, while pulling the exhaust manifolds, discovered the salvage engine has an egr tube from the driver manifold but the one in my truck does not. I plan to take EVERYTHING off of my engine and swap it to the new but I was just wondering if the lower end and heads are the same as what I have now? Any other surprises I might encounter and what did the 5.4 with the egr come in? Supposedly this was an F150.
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