Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: AC Running Intermittently / Airflow Stops Then Start / Compressor Kicks In And Out
Jan 23, 2017
2012 F250 6.2L - AC will be working well with all fan speeds, then airflow just stops and compressor kicks out. Will run (or actually not run) that way for 4-5 minutes, then all of a sudden the compressor kicks in and airflow restarts, and air is nice and cold for another 10 minutes or so when it'll cycle off on its own again.
I've tried all different combinations of AC/MaxAC/fan speeds/and temp settings with no change in behavior. Only occurs in warm weather when AC is on; when just using heat the blower never changes on it's own and everything is great.
BTW - I've looked through all the HVAC FAQs and probably 200 different threads that come up under different search terms, but haven't seen this particular problem. If it was just lack of cooling but airflow didn't change, then it'd be easy. Or if it was only blower issues in certain speed settings, that's got lots of fixes too. But nothing where cooling and fan quit and restart on their own together that I've found.
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Trucks compressor kicks on and off and won't stay on no cold air at all do i have a leak ? The truck came whit a new canister that mounts in front of the air box could it be that?
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I have a 2002 F250 superduty with a 5.4 in it, every once in awhile it starts to sputter. Its usually when i'm easing on the gas, possibly around a certain rpm and completely random. Once it starts i can get on the gas a little and it stops. i've changed to fuel filter and air filter recently so i know its not that.
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2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
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I have a 2008 f250 with 5.4v8. The truck starts intermittently. Put key in turn if no dash lights it doesn't even crank or hear a click. If u put key in and turn and dash lights up to starts and runs. U can watch the different lights (instrument cluster) light up independently like a xmas tree. When truck doesn't start if u disconnect battery when touching power wire to battery. Post truck lights will flick on/off if u tap cables to battery and leave on. Lights flicker on/off and then stay off. (Don't know why shouldn't flicker at all) after disconnecting and reconnecting battery truck will or will not start still depends on if dash lights come on before cranking.i replaced battery, starter, alternator, all the ground cable connections and wire cleaned. I haven't replaced the power side but are clean.
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1999 F350 & lately if I don't plug it in even if it's like 40 out for like the first 30 sec sounds like its only running on 4 cylinders than it'll just even out & alls good. thinking glow plugs here. I did replace them last fall unfortunately with the cheep ones that I been now reading bad things about.
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2002 7.3 running rough.
This is my symptoms : On cold start ups engine runs rough. Idling it knocks worse than normal on the road she runs really rough. If I get on here she smooths out ( but still runs rough a bit) but normal driving at between 1200 -2000 rpm she runs so rough it shakes the whole truck. It will do this until she gets up to operating temp & then it goes away. The more she warms up the better she runs.
Once up to temp she will run perfectly. The colder it is outside the worse it is & the longer it takes for it to go away. I have replaced the valve cover gaskers and new harnesses, new glow plugs. Still same problems. I have AE and one time it gave me a #2 cylinder code. have not been able to repete this code. What to check next.
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I have a 01 F550 Super Duty with a dynamic wheel lift system. One of my drivers was driving the truck when it just stopped running. I can't figure out what's happened. I think I have checked everything and yet it just turns over but won't start...
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So, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
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I have a 2005 F250 , 4.2 tdi diesel. I just bought the truck recently and still getting to know it.
I noticed recently that when I turn on the key, the vacuum pump starts running and does not go off. It seems to run continuously and will only shut off if I block the white outlet pipe with my finger. Is this normal or is the pump stuffed.
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Ok just bought this truck ran fine. Put a sct tuner on that the truck came with and some how got the egr turned on. It had a egr delete so it was smoking and finally found it out that it had turned on but fixed it. Now we have another problem, it will start up and run fine and about 45 seconds it will start running rough and go into a limp mode. It will run rough and starts to die slowly and when it starts to die there is no throttle at all.
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On my '99 F250 PSD 4x4 the speedometer climbs very smoothly (normal) until I hit 54mph and then it just stops going up. Reviewing other posts I have changed the DSS (differential speed/ABS sensor) and the VSS (tranny speed sensor). Disconnected both batteries for several hours to see if it would clear.
Doesn't bounce, peg, go to 0, just won't go past 54mph. No power loss. Tach continues to climb and speed continues to increase. No strange symptoms except this 54mph thing. It is completely repeatable. All fuses under the dash and hood check out ok.
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I bought a 1999 Superduty 7.3 6 speed and went out to drive it yesterday and noticed my speedometer stops working at 40mph. I saw many posts about this but no fixes. Bad cluster or vss? No abs light on dash. Still runs and shifts good. Only one yellow airbag light illuminated on dash...
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2012 6.2 XLT 50,000 miles with manual single zone controls. I haven't had time to work on it yet, but it seems that my AC compressor is not engaging. The dash controls light up normal, fan comes on, etc. I am just looking to see if there are any common failure points. I know it COULD be low on charge, clutch could be bad, etc. I am just checking if there is a common failure with these trucks AC system.
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My Bump Stops have completely dry rotted and fell off the truck. I have an 08 with a 2 inch leveling kit, I already did all the body bushings, as they disintegrated as well. Should I bother replacing them? I highly doubt that I would ever bottom out that bad that I would need them?
If I should replace them, then where did u guy's get them and should I go with the Neoprene like I did with the body bushings?
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I was pulling my trailer this week with 2 horses in. I was going downhills in 2d gear, to avoid using my breaks too much. When I reached the bottom of the hills, and I was almost at 0mph at the round-abouts, my engine stopped!
This happened twice this week, for the first time ever. Almost like if the exhaust pipes where full of gas, and forced the engine to stop or an electronic issue.
Very dangerous, I lost my assisted steering-Wheel, and my breaks... Need to what may have happened ?
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With the few hot days we have had here lately, I have noticed that after about a minute the AC will go warm and I will have to rev the truck up when it does to get it cold again. It seems the compressor is disengaging. I noticed that the condenser has a big gash with a tube ripped open on top. I know it needs to be replaced, but could that be causing the compressor issues? It's a 2003 7.3L.
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Ok AC wasn't working took it to a mechanic told me the the compressor was missing a clutch he recommended i put a new compressor. Is it possible just to put a new clutch in it and if so do i have to remove the compressor to put the clutch on it.
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2003 V10.. Can I replace the AC compressor clutch with out pulling the compressor out?
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I am not sure which it is but I cannot turn the pulley by hand. How do you tell if the pulley is bad or the whole compressor? I went out to start the truck and it wouldn't start. It died so I restarted it and then I seen the smoke from the front of the truck. I opened the hood and the flipping belt was just hanging there. Is there a way to just bypass the unit for now? I wont be needing the AC till summer and that is several months away.
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I have a 2002 F350 v10. I have 101,000 miles on it. When the Speedometer hit 15mph it starts to climb Rapidly to a 100mph then it stops and goes to 0. My miles go blank and when I slow down to around 5mph it comes back. I do know that I have a bad clock-spring and am changing that this weekend.
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