Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: AC Not Blowing / Small Thump Of Clutch Engaging On Compressor
Jul 24, 2012
Got in my truck this morning and everything worked fine, no problems. Arrived at my destination and parked. Come out about two hours later start the truck and my A/C wont blow air, My truck is an 05 lariat so it has the climate control A/C. Everything was working fine it just wont blow air, When i turned the A/C on and off i could hear/feel the small thump of the clutch engaging on the compressor. I am thinking the blower fan just went south? or maybe something stupid that controls the blower fan? Summer is in full swing here in central florida, temps are 95+ not including the humidity...
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2012 6.2 XLT 50,000 miles with manual single zone controls. I haven't had time to work on it yet, but it seems that my AC compressor is not engaging. The dash controls light up normal, fan comes on, etc. I am just looking to see if there are any common failure points. I know it COULD be low on charge, clutch could be bad, etc. I am just checking if there is a common failure with these trucks AC system.
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Ok AC wasn't working took it to a mechanic told me the the compressor was missing a clutch he recommended i put a new compressor. Is it possible just to put a new clutch in it and if so do i have to remove the compressor to put the clutch on it.
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2003 V10.. Can I replace the AC compressor clutch with out pulling the compressor out?
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I need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
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This week was our first nice week of the year. Monday I got in my truck at lunch time turned the a.c. on and it blew ice cold. Today my truck sat in the sun all day and I got in it and turned the a.c. on. I noticed instead of the normal "click" you hear when the clutch engages in the a.c. compressor I got a wine and wimper kind of noise. The system never cooled the air after this happened. Is the compressor shot? Is it safe to drive or is the compressor going to tear itself up and send metal pieces thru the system?
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2002 F350 with V10. A/C stopped blowing cold. I can hear the clutch clicking on and off, so probably needs refrigerant? Other thing is that with A/C off, the temp control turned to cold, and fan on, it blows hot air. On my other vehicles with A/C off and temp turned to cold, I get outside air at ambient temp.
I removed the cover off the evap core under the dash and observed the blend door opening and closing as the temp selector is moved. The duct door moves correctly, so am I'm missing something? Is the Ford system such that ambient air is always heated? This happens even in cold temp conditions.
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So lately I have noticed that my 99 F-250 has a bit of a "bump" while accelerating. Think of it as accelerating with a trailer and something is loose on the hitch, making a sort of bump or thump. I talked to the guy at the parts store and he said to put it in neutral and wiggle the driveshaft up and down, side to side.
When I did that it moved up and down, but not side to side, but I'm not sure if that's because it's just positioned that way or what. The wobble was coming from the slip yoke back by the rear diff. Is this something I should be concerned about? Also, I have an ext. cab and short box, 1 piece driveshaft.
Here's a video (a very crappy video at that), not sure if it gets enough info through or not but hopefully you kinda get how much play is in there.
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My F-250 super duty has a bump thump when I stop if I release the the brake it goes thump bump? Does not do this if I put it neutral. Seems to do this in Acceleration from a stop, shifting goes bump sometimes, When hitting rough roads does not seem there bump thump suspension issues?? Already greased the drive spline joint the same, checked if there is anything loose nope, checked spare tire secure , 75,000 miles stock shocks?? something in the transfer case?? The rear end just had the seals replaced??? Tranny is secure??
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I have a 2008 f-350 diesel, with 33k miles, I am getting a light thump or thud from the passenger side in the engine compartment, It does it when the truck is NOT moving as well as when it is moving. It use to do it only periodically but now it is doing it about every 1-2 minutes and it happened 3 times while we were sitting at a stop light.
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2002 F250 SD 5.4 V8 here....cruise control doesn't work!!
-I've checked fuses 27 and 34. Good.
-I've done the self test. All lights flash with no codes given.
-I've replaced the pressure switch at the end of the brake manifold. All good.
-Horn works.
-No ABS lights or check engine lights on.
When I press the ON then SET...the guage illuminates on the dash and there's a slight 'thump' from what seems to be the area of the cruise control box under the hood (I'm driving so I'm assuming it's it).
Am I missing something here?? Can it be anything other than the box itself?
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I was driving my 1999 F250 5.4 Triton last week, after noticing a thump while backing my small boat down the ramp (sounded like u joint) I went and parked. When I got back in the truck it starts fine but when I shift into reverse, it's staying in drive, anywhere I put my shift lever..... It's in drive! I even noticed that even all the way up into park it feels like it's in drive, but with something holding it back. If I give it gas while in park it will go forward! I have tightened the two torx screws under dash, pulled cable off and tried shifting by hand (clicks like switching gears, but still in drive) pulled pan, everything looked good there, fluid is nice and red, smells good, no metal in pan? It's the 4r100od tranny.
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Pump works fine. Replaced pvh. Won't go into 4wd hi or lo no matter what I try. Even with them in lock. How do I know if hubs need replaced or just hub locks?
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I have a 2002 Ford Superduty. I recently had installed a BDS 8 inch suspension lift. I also had the upper and lower ball joints replaced. All this work was done by a certified garage. Today i went to pull out my boat from the ramp, turn the switch inside the cab to 4x4 high. The light came on but 4x4 did not engage. As i pulled the boat out of the water the rear tire spun in the sand but the front did not. As i cleared the ramp and on level ground i turn the switch off and back on i heard not but the light can on. With the 4x4 light on i turn the wheel and pulled forward i noticed no hopping as when a truck is in 4x4. Initially when i turn the 4x4 switch on i hear a clunk up front but not after. Drove home drive train appeared fine no noise.
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2004 Ford F250 CC 4x4 6.0L
Took the family down to the beach today. Had some tough sand to get across in a few areas to move away from the crowds. Got a little dicey and the truck got stuck in 2WD. Switched to 4WD but back tires kept spinning. Couldn't figure out why and the truck started to dig deeper in the sand. Got a little nervous and I didn't want to start the day off with having to get pulled out.
Got out of the truck, locked the hubs in manually and I was out, no problem. Left the hubs locked until we left the beach and back on pavement.
What might be the problem and why the "shift on the fly" switch on the dash didn't seem to engage the 4WD? I even tried to switch into 4L and back to 4H (truck in neutral, break pedal compressed) and still no workie. Only manually locking the hubs would engage the 4WD.
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Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
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I'm trying to figure out why my auto locking hubs do not engage. To isolate the problem shouldn't the hub engage if a vacuum is applied to that hub only? A solid 18 inHg is maintained at that hub for over 10 minutes but the selector will not rotate, which suggests to me the seals are OK. What then might be the problem?
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2006, ESOF. Noticed the front hubs aren't engaging but the transfer case is. What should I check?
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My 4x4 on my 2000 model f350 will not engage. The light works, comes on briefly on startup of the engine. When I flip the switch nothing happens. When I jumper the relays nothing happens. I do not have the factory hubs, they r warn hubs and the vacuum line to them is capped off. How to figure this out on why the 4x4 will not engage?
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My 2011 F350 is not engaging 4wheel drive from the dash switch. When I turn it to either hi or lo it says "shift in process" but no 4 WD. It will engage manually from the hub lock, no problem. I know very little about 4wheel drive but am otherwise mechanically knowledgeable.
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I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and the ESOF switch not engaging hubs, currently I have no 4x4 lights coming on in the cluster when i turn the switch. I am not experiencing any of the vaccum symptoms that most people are suggesting. I When I turn the switch i also do not hear any relays clicking. Relays have been tested, and i waited for the 45 second transfer delay that the manual mentions. ESOF switch has power, and is working properly (I know because I bought a new one in attempt to fix the problem) Basically I have no responses from any of my 4x4 indicators or parts.
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