Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: AC Compressor Missing Clutch
Jun 25, 2011
Ok AC wasn't working took it to a mechanic told me the the compressor was missing a clutch he recommended i put a new compressor. Is it possible just to put a new clutch in it and if so do i have to remove the compressor to put the clutch on it.
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2003 V10.. Can I replace the AC compressor clutch with out pulling the compressor out?
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I need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
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Got in my truck this morning and everything worked fine, no problems. Arrived at my destination and parked. Come out about two hours later start the truck and my A/C wont blow air, My truck is an 05 lariat so it has the climate control A/C. Everything was working fine it just wont blow air, When i turned the A/C on and off i could hear/feel the small thump of the clutch engaging on the compressor. I am thinking the blower fan just went south? or maybe something stupid that controls the blower fan? Summer is in full swing here in central florida, temps are 95+ not including the humidity...
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Have a 2000 F-250 V-10 4x4 with 335,000 miles on the clock. Has started hesitating at 40-45. You can't really notice it at idle. Drove it around at lower speeds and just a miss here and there. Take it up to 40-45 and it's quite bad. Hasn't thrown any codes. Hooked it up to the scanner to get no additional info. My gut says coil packs but am kinda confused that I haven't gotten a misfire code yet. What to check?
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My 99 f450 7.3 runs bad on first start of day. I checked the codes 3 codes p0475, p0470 and p1247. Now here is what I tried I plugged it in over night and it will start and run as should the next morning with out side temp 47. Drove the truck late yesterday evening didn't plug up tried it this morning with a outside temp of 47 truck starts but missing and like of power. My problem seems to be temp related. Will low boost pressure cause this problem what do I need to do?
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One day after my mechanic replaced the heater core my truck started to misfire after the motor warms up and is under load. No codes and nothing pops up when hooked up to o a scanner. It's been cold in the morning and when I start it up it runs like a top. But after it warms up it start to miss a little, then it gradually gets worse especially when under a load at higher speeds. I thought it was a vacuum hose or something got left unplugged.
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I went to replace my driver's hub bearing last night. Found pieces missing from the locking hub (manual). I ordered them last night it's the snap ring and washers but will not be here till next Monday. Can I run the new bearing with out hurting it. It has already ruined the seals on that side I just don't have the time to take it all the way down. So if I install the bearing and don't put all the guts in the locking hub (I know the locking hub won't work) Dont need 4x4 right now but need to be able to drive it some. Just don't want to mess up the 250 dollar bearing I just got.
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2003 6.0 is acting crazy again. Has new ICP, IPR, oil discharge tube, and hpop. It cranks right up but one time you crank it and all the gauges work correctly, especially the fuel gauge. The engine will idle perfect but when you accelerate it has a dead miss. May crank like that 2 to 4 times. Then you crank it and it runs like crap, and the gauges won't work, the fuel gauge goes past E and the light comes on. As long as that happens it runs terrible, but when the gauges are working it idles great but has a miss under acceleration! It was running fine, then just went nuts!
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2012 6.2 XLT 50,000 miles with manual single zone controls. I haven't had time to work on it yet, but it seems that my AC compressor is not engaging. The dash controls light up normal, fan comes on, etc. I am just looking to see if there are any common failure points. I know it COULD be low on charge, clutch could be bad, etc. I am just checking if there is a common failure with these trucks AC system.
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Just bought a nice little project 1999 4X4. 100k miles and overall decent condition.
One of the first things to tackle is the driver's front hub has no manual 4x4 locking mechanism like on the passenger side. Is this a tough job?
Attached is the picture of the hub & missing lock setup. (Can't upload...).
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I have a 03 F250SD with ~145,000 miles on the 5.4L. Just recently I have been having what seems to be a miss, or possibly a dead cylinder. I thought it might be a dirty MAF, but I cleaned it and have the same problem. The miss is more noticeable at the higher RPMs. I am checking the plugs today. So any solution? I refuse to take her to the shop and having another man up in her manifold.
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A couple days ago my truck started stumbling and missing . And is lacking power . It starts fine and seems to run ok above 3000 rpm . But at idle and off it is stumbling pretty bad . And at highway speeds it stumbles once it goes into overdrive . I changed the plugs which where white ( I think lean ) then I bought a new coil pack and moved it through all ten positions ( I just replaced them all about a year ago .) then replaced the tps and the iac today also cleaned the maf and recharged my filter . Still no different . It hasn't been an on going thing . I was driving then stopped for a bit then about 1 hour later went to leave and this is where I'm at .
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I have a miss at high rpms.. I pulled this engine, manual trans, and 4x4 axle and put them in my F350 Majestic motorhome. 156,000 miles on the engine. Slightly dusted engine with good compression 375-400 (cranking and corrected for altitude). Has a little bit of a long start.
No smoke on start up unless 10 degrees or colder
No smoke when pulling either.
Glowplugs ...Good
GPR... Good
Checked resistance from IDM to injectors ...Good
History of some ether for starting before I got my hands on it. I have AE with the ford enhancement. But I am new to working on a powerstroke and new to AE.
ICP ...new
CPS...new
Oil ....new
EBP...new
Installed a pressure gauge to the drivers side upper port on my fuel bowl:
60 psi at idle
55 psi at WOT 2500-3000 rpms under a load
HPOP stabilized pressure is 2750 @ 40% duty cycle
Truck still misses (semi-intermittently) at higher rpm with a load.
Rechecked codes KOEO: None present
I visually inspected valve movement while running (idle). Did the buzz test when cold.... All injectors sounded the same when tested individually.
Did a cct when not completely warm:
P0266
p0272
Repeated the test at normal operating temperature:
P0266
Torque values on rocker arms bolts and injector holds are good. Fuel quality isn't an issue since this problem has remained for 5 tanks of fuel. What I should do next?
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This is an update on an older post I took the truck to a repair shop and had it checked. They said 5 of the 8 glow plugs were not working and #3 injector was bad.. They replaced all glow plugs and the #3 injector I brought the truck home and parked it about a 20 mile drive home running fine when I got home. When I started it the next afternoon it was missing just as bad as before the work was done. After it gets warm runs ok best I can tell. What it could be? If the orings on the injectors are bad would it run ok when it warms up? Going to take it back to shop but not sure they know whats wrong by the way the mechanic talked. What to do next they have checked the wiring or at least said he did. It does ok when the oil warms up new hpop and I have checked the oil level and it was ok the hpop and eng. What else to do?
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and a 6-speed with 140,000 miles. It has been studded, and has upgraded injectors. ( Not sure on the size, they bored them at at the diesel shop that studded my heads.) Also have an EGR delete, with the EGR turned off on the SCT as well. I also have a SCT Livewire set on the 65HP tow tune.
Truck has always ran great in the year and a half I have had it. I changed the oil three days ago, and now I am getting a miss at idle. The trucks cranks right up and drives normally. Once it is at operating temperature, when I stop at a light it has a very noticeable miss. There is no surging, or change in RPM's at all. Just seems like it is cutting out every few seconds. This is also somewhat intermittent. FICM shows 49 volts always, even when this is occurring.
Also, this may be unrelated, my oil temperature seems higher since the oil change. Was around 192 water/197 oil while cruising 70 on the interstate. Now, its' more like 192/202. I've always ran Motorcraft 15w-40, and that is what I used for this oil change as well.
I see some people have a similar problem, but all the posts I've read involved fluctuating RPM's or surging, or both. Other than this, the truck cranks and runs just like normal.
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With the few hot days we have had here lately, I have noticed that after about a minute the AC will go warm and I will have to rev the truck up when it does to get it cold again. It seems the compressor is disengaging. I noticed that the condenser has a big gash with a tube ripped open on top. I know it needs to be replaced, but could that be causing the compressor issues? It's a 2003 7.3L.
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I am not sure which it is but I cannot turn the pulley by hand. How do you tell if the pulley is bad or the whole compressor? I went out to start the truck and it wouldn't start. It died so I restarted it and then I seen the smoke from the front of the truck. I opened the hood and the flipping belt was just hanging there. Is there a way to just bypass the unit for now? I wont be needing the AC till summer and that is several months away.
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I'm not exactly sure what's going on but it feels like I'm missing some brakes - the pedal is extremely spongy, I have to push it nearly to the floor. And when they do engage, it isn't with the same vigor as they did before.
It's strange, it just sort of happened - I drove to a friend's house, everything was fine. But when I left all of a sudden, there's this problem.
It's not like the pads have come apart and destroyed a caliper - I had that happen to me a few years ago and I definitely felt it happen, plus once it did I lost almost all braking ability as the lines would just leak fluid.
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I have recently purchased an 04 F250 crew cab with the 6.0 power stroke, it has a cold air intake, 4inch exhaust from the turbo back and has a program in it but programmer didn't come with the truck. When I sit at a traffic light and go to leave on a green light the truck kind of hesitates or acts like it's missing out( maybe loading up) shoots out black smoke then runs fine, it doesn't do it at all the stop lights but does get irritating. If I get it flashed back to stock settings will the truck run normal with all the upgrades?
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I have a 1999 ford f250 with a 6.8 liter v 10 engine. At about 40mph the truck will start missing and lacks power to accelerate further. This problem is intermittent. Some days it runs great and others the miss appears. Well I scanned and the code reader said that I had a misfire on cylinder 7. I took a chance and replaced the COP and the boot for that cylinder . Ran great for a day and then the miss came back. Same code again. What else might cause this? Are plugs difficult to change in these engines?
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