Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: ABS On - Codes For Left Front Speed Sensor Input Circuit Malfunction
Jun 9, 2016
2001 F250. I have had issues on other trucks where you get a funny-acting speedometer with a code that comes up as VSS (sensor on top of the rear differential)....And it shifted exact same way.
My new truck speedometer is totally fine and the ABS is on with codes:
C1158 Left front speed sensor coherency malfunction
C1155 Left front speed sensor input circuit malfunction
Shifts about the same way on the trucks with bad VSS.
Question is will a bad front speed sensor affect the way the trans shifts? Doesn't happen all the time. If you go slow it shifts smooth. If you pull off fast a barely noticeable jerk from 1-2 and 2-3....
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2004 Sport Trac V6. Been having hard shifting and P0715: Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit. Cleared the codes and still returns.
From my searches, readings and looking at the parts diagram. On the newer 5 speeds the sensor is the one on the inside of the tranny. This requires taking the entire tranny apart? Is there an external connector for the sensor that I can check or clean first? Replace this sensor. I know the older ones were mounted on top of the tranny. I think this one is mounted on the inside though.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe, V4, 2.4L.
So the other day, my CEL and I got it scanned: p0320, or "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction."
It was accompanied with two symptoms:
1. The car will sometimes sputter on startup, and the tachometer will be zeroed out. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on, and it will start normally, albeit with a bit of a misfire on idle.
2. The car will sometimes die while at a stop. Just like the first symptom, if I turn the car off and turn it back on, it will work normally.
I looked on here, and it seemed like everyone solved a p0320 by replacing the Ignition Failure Sensor. So that's exactly what I did. But nothing changed; I still have the symptoms, and the CEL came back on and is still reading p0320.
What should be my next step? Could it be faulty wires that give power to the Ignition Failure Sensor?
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I'm having a turn signal issue with my '02 F-250 that started this morning out of the blue. Seems that when the signal switch is set for a right hand turn and the brakes are applied, the signal will then become solid, not flash, and then blow the fuse. Evidently something with the brake light circuit is overloading the turn signal circuit and not canceling when the turn signal is activated.
Here are a couple of things I have tried to narrow down the culprit.
1) Left turn signal works fine regardless if the brake lights are operating.
2) Brake light circuit operates fine by itself.
3) Right turn signal works fine but there seems to be a back-feed of power causing the center third brake light as well as the left side rear brake light to flash in unison. If brake lights are then activated, the flash stops and becomes constant thus blowing the fuse.
4) Emergency Hazard lights work perfect but the center third brake light again flashes as well which reverts back to some type of back-feed of power. Also, if brake lights come on, flashing turns to constant light and then blows the fuse again.
I guess my question is,. does this seem like the multi-function switch needs replacing or could this be a relay issue of some sort? I don' think its a ground issue simply because the left turn signal circuit as well as the center brake light circuit are both being breached when the right turn signal is activated. Your thoughts?
2002 F-250 Super Duty 5.4 V8
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2007 F350 6.0 .. I let the truck sit for about a week went out to start it truck cranked right up then died now the truck wont start truck was running fine until this I wasn't having any starting problems. the codes are all eight injectors low circuit tested ficm had 48.3 volts...
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I have an ABS light on. I have crawled under the truck I don't know how many times everything is connected just as it should be. The wires did have to taped up because they burnt into after getting against the exhaust at some point, but I had fixed that awhile ago, I've even tore back into the tape and re-did everything again, nothing gets rid of the ABS light. When this first happened it would go away after I turned the truck off, but would come back after using the brakes a few times, especially harder stops. Then it got to where it just came on and stayed on, and didn't go out no matter what. Thinking my ABS speed sensor went, I bought a brand new motorcraft one from rock auto it fits perfectly in the rear, plug looks good. I can't find NOTHING that would keep this light on. The code is always the same "Rear ABS Center Speed Sensor Input Malfunction", how to get rid of this?
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2011 6.7... My truck is throwing code P2033 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor. What is the part number for that sensor?
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I've owned my 2012 F-250, 6.7L for less than a week and it has a check engine light. The local dealer can't see me for a week, and I need to leave town next week.
I went to AutoZone to have the codes checked and this is what they came back with:
P2033
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
P2031
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
Can I drive on these codes, or should I park the truck until Ford can see me?
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I recently picked up a 2005 f250 SD 5.4 4x4... I was having issues with sporadic shifting and wandering shifts while cruising around 100kph, scanned it and came up with p0721 OSS sensor circuit performance fault.
I checked the harness and all looks fine, now I attempted to remove the OSS at the rear of the tranny, got the 8mm bolt out however could not, for the life of me get the sensor out. I tried not to use pliers to twist the sensor or anything for fear of breaking the sensor off and having bits go into the transmission.
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Today I ran into a person I use to work with and was informed he had bought almost the same truck as mine. He also informed me that his has spent most of the winter in the shop. Reason being he claimed the transmission had a sensor that malfunctioned when it's cold out. This sensor lets the truck turn over but it blocks the truck from starting. Now it has got to 10 below zero only once this winter so far, my truck is kept outside, no problem yet.
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I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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My '01 7.3 is having some transmission problems, My O/D light is flashing. Trying to go after stopping at a light is a difficult, it drives very sluggish, like its not in overdrive. Scanned it and got three codes P0732, P0720, P0503. I replaced the ABS/VSS on the differential and the problem still exist.
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What would be causing my left and right bank lean codes? Truck still seems to run fine. I have also been getting number 6 misfire. all within the past week. I know Its due for a tune up but would a simple tune up fix these codes. Also besides plugs and primary fluids what else should I be changing. I don't want to be getting to involved just the main stuff.
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So I had an ABS light going on and off on my 05 250, finally got it read, and the computer said right front speed sensor. I changed it and the light stayed on all the time then. I had someone plug it in and drive it and the left front sensor was reading nice and flat on the graph, while the right front was spiking all over the place. I then assumed I got a bad sensor. I changed it one more time and now the light still won't go off. Now what?!
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I went to have the code read, and it was no signal from the rear ABS speed sensor. I replaced the sensor, and the light is still on. Also my speedo is off a bit. It is reading about 7-10 miles an hour faster than what it should. The mechanic can't seem to find the issue. I have a 06 F250, Powerstroke.
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I have a 2012 ford f350 6.7 diesel....I have the following check engine light codes..
P0073 Ambient air sensor circuit high output
P009a Intake air and/ambient air correlation.
I replaced ambient air sensor in passenger mirror and auto zone said to replace the air charge sensor. I have done both still have a check engine light.
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Long time follower, first time user. 99 F250 V10 180,000 miles: About a month ago I replaced both upstream oxygen sensors. I know have the following codes:
0135 and 0155 for Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater HTR 21 and 11
Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 and 2
1409 for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit
I checked fuses and PCM relay and all are good. I have 12 volts to both oxygen sensors and no noticeable wire burns. One of the possible causes given on code printout for 0135/0155 is to check for a disconnected hose to the EGR. All hoses are good. One of the possible reported fixes for EGR code 1409 is to repair oxygen sensor wiring. So my question is: Are these codes related. If I replace the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid, will this clear my codes from the oxygen sensors?
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
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I have an 03 F350 4x4 dually. Was pulling hard left at low speed when braking (front). Replaced pads, calipers, rotors, hoses and tires. Still the same problem. You can feel the abs activate right before it almost locks up the left front brake (basically will pull the steering wheel out of my hand). BTW the abs light does not come on.
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