Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: ABS Light Comes On Then Go Off 5 Times A Day
Aug 27, 2017
For the last month the light has come on one day then off for a week only to come on again then go off. Recently its been off and on everyday plus I noticed a roughness just rolling along. no change under power. My first thought is wheel bearing. No change while turning just a small hum and a tiny vibration. The trucks got 306k now.
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Ok my dome light flashes and I get a chime first three times then one and it repeats. No other error messages or codes. What causes this?
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1999 7.3 diesel 150K miles.
Over the winter, it sits in my driveway. I keep it plugged in and start it once a week. Lately when I start it, it cranks over and over several times but will not fire up. I stop cranking, wait a couple of seconds and try again and it will then fire right up. After warming up it everything was fine.
Now that it has warmed up outside, it still requires the cranking, stop and trying again but now even when the engine is hot, I have to do this. What is going on?
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So, my 06CC V10 likes to switch to the defrost at times while I'm towing, usually above 65mph, would that be a vacuum issue? Also, the truck seems to always have hot air blowing in to the cab somewhere from the fire wall? Lastly it seems to me that the steering wheel has a lot of play in it (left/right) before the wheels actually turn, should I tighten up the steering box, or is this normal.
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I recently overhauled a 5r110w torqshift in an 03 F350. The trans is acctually an 06 trans. The original problem was that the truck was "tieing up" on take off. When i tore the trans down i found the Low/Reverse clutches were burned bad and welded together. Everything else looked decent. I replaced all the clutches and checked all the clearances, except the OD clutch because i could not find any specs, or a way to adjust it. The trans has been doing good for around 200 miles. Now it has an intermittent problem.
When you first start the truck its like the converter has to fill up. It has a delayed engagement, but only AFTER you shut the truck off. Also, after driving about 10 miles, sometimes it will feel sluggish. I put my Solus Pro on it and while watching the trans data noticed that the transmission is not downshifting all the way int first gear at times. It will down shift, and then try to take off in 3rd and sometimes 5th gear. I was looking thru my ATSG manual and i can see which clutches turn in for 3rd. It seems like a solenoid is sticking on and allowing fluid to "leak" and keep the wrong clutch turned at the wrong time.
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I have a 2001 ford f350 v10 dually. about 2 months ago it blew a plug out and i had it fixed and shortly after it developed a starting issue. It starts fine for a day or so then after it sits for a day it wont start without out cycling the key 5 to 10 times....It cranks fine just wont try to start or even sputter....took to a shop that replaced my jem Module and he had it for a week and only one time did it not start. I drive it home and it sits overnight and wont start the next day. took it back and he couldn't find out what is going on.
Its has started and ran just fine no issues once its running but shut it off for a couple hours you got a chance it wont start. I've eventually got it to start every time so far. The shop said my fuel pressure was 40 psi but would go down after it sat to about 10 to 20. The one time it did not start for the shop they said it had no fuel pressure but then he just cycled the ignition a few time and it started. What to check that would be normal like the fuel pump or relays and fuses. I should say early this year around jan feb it had the starting issue once and thought it was due to a autostart that was installed before I bought it and so got it going and just removed autostart when started having trouble with starting.
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It seems like recently almost every time I start my truck it beeps 5 beeps 5 times. so it beeps 25 times. what could this be and how do i get rid of it. I wear my seatbelt so it is not that. There has to be a relay or something to stop the dam thing from doing it.
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The whole trip over here weren't any problems. Yesterday I went to the store, started fine. When I walked out of the store, the truck turned over 3 times and just stopped. After that all I got was a click at the relay on the pass fender. I have good batteries. I have verified current through the fender relay down to the starter but I cant get it to turn over. Another thing to note is the solenoid got so hot it burned me.
This, I have never run into. I replaced it today with a new starter with no luck. Could I have a bad, "new" starter? What would cause the solenoid to generate so much heat just sitting there? The longer it stayed connected, the hotter it got.
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The problems that I am having at the moment are that the abs light is on from the speedometer, odometer, also the blinking overdrive light that comes on at around 25 mph. After some research I had purchased a ford factory sensor for the rear dif. I then replaced the old sensor with the factory one. Started the truck and not a single thing had changed, both the meters were not working as well as the od light was still flashing.
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this morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine.
nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night.
will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
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This is 6.0 VT365 in an F650...truck runs just fine however the SES light stays on. I have noticed that with the truck running the SES light does not come on until the Wait to Start light goes out
I have read the codes using Snap on Scanner and have code 252 which is apparently configuration module (volts below norm or shorted)...but I am told 252 is an un document code...which is not very useful.
I have been working through the various connectors and checking the harness, but not yet finding the issue, as to the the SES light only coming on after the WTS goes out with the engine already running.
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I recentlyHad to replace the right front wheel bearing and after the install the speedometer and turn signals don't work, the ABS light is on and the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. I've replaced the VSS on the rear diff, pulled and cleaned Speed sensors on front hub?
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I have a 2010 f250 XL v10 6 speed 4wd. I was looking into adding factory fog lights to it. I have the factory plug by the headlight. I've read that some XL trucks just need the fog lights, wiring harness for the lights and the headlight switch with the fog light option.
So today my buddy (has an 09 f250 xlt with factory fog lights) and I decided to try his headlight switch in my truck to see if it would send power to the plug by the headlight. Plugged it in, turned the fog lights on and had no power. Actually the little fog light light on the switch didn't light up that I noticed either. So we compared wiring harnesses going to the headlight switch. Both trucks have 9 wires. #21 fuse in the kick panel is intact and good.
What else my truck would need in order to use the factory fog light parts? I know I could run new wiring and use an aftermarket switch but I'd rather it be factory.
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My Dome lights don't work when you open the door. I can manually turn them on though. Also door ajar light is on. Are these issues caused by the door latch switch? Also have no fog lights I replaced the switch and bulbs. I have a 2003 F250.....
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Was checking fuses for why my 3rd brake light and pedal adjustment switch does not work. Was also looking for a fuse to tie into so that a light in the cab floorboard will stay on when the headlights or marker lights are on... After trying several spots to no avail (finally putting it into the bright headlight fuse). I got the light to work.... But now my ABS light stays on!!! Also 3rd brake still not working...
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I just bought a 2008 f350 4wd with a 5.4... Check engine light is on. abs light also comes on sometimes. Since I plan on keeping this truck for awhile I have decided to buy a code scanner. Do they read the abs codes as well?
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So, I get in my truck yesterday and my ABS light is on. I ran the codes and there are none???? Not sure where to start.
2004 F350 V10 DRW 4x4 XL.....
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My ABS light is has been on for a while now, but I am finally replacing all the rotors, so its all apart now, and I would like to fix it while its still apart. my question is, is there a way to diagnose what part of the ABS is actually causing the light? at a glance, the wheel sensors and the wires going to them look sound. A few years ago, my father said he might have damaged the drivers side one, but I've inspected it in the past and didn't see any damage. I thought I saw a harbor freight ABS diagnostic tool, but don't know if it'll work, and don't want to spend the money on a tool ill prolly never use again...
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I've got a '03 F250 7.3L 4x4 (not sure how much info you need) with many many miles. My battery light came on a couple of months ago. Replaced a battery. Light went out for a day. Checked and replaced the alternator. Light went out for a couple days. Cleaned the battery terminals for better connection. The battery light is off when I first start the truck, but depending on what I've got turned on, lights, radio, AC, the battery light comes on with in 15 to 30 miles down the road. I had the batteries and the alternator rechecked yesterday and everything seems to be charged and charging.
- Should I replace the wiring to the alternator?
- Are there any fuses I should be looking at or for?
- The alternator is a rebuilt one from Autozone, should I get a new one?
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Battery light came on today, I figured were in need of replacement so I got new ones. Light is still on, until I reach about 1800 rpm. It goes out until truck idles down. Can an alternator do this? I always thought when they went, they went.
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I am having some problems with my 4WD, it's not working. When I turn the key on, I do not see the 4WD light. I have locked the hubs with no change. I noticed that my switch was not illuminated either, so I started there. I took the switch out, cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled it. Now it's illuminated but still no 4WD. I have swapped the two relays and still nothing. I have checked all the fuses under the dash and they were all good.
I don't believe the switch is the problem(they seem to be pretty simple and it doesn't look like there's much to go wrong. Is there a better way to test the switch other than just seeing the illumination light on? I plan on testing the transfer case shift motor tomorrow but I don't believe that is the problem since I'm not even getting the dash 4x4 light.
My other thought is replace the GEM but I was trying to rule out a few of the cheaper alternatives first.
I almost forgot to mention, approximately 7 months ago, my buddy and I were going coyote hunting. Being the genius he is, he didn't unload his rifle while we were in the truck and at some point, something happened and he touched off a round.
The shot was a well placed point blank shot and went right through a large group of wires on the passenger side trim panel under the glove box.
Initially, he bagged himself a trophy size Superduty but after some emergency surgery and a bit of soldering, everything has been fine.
I haven't used the 4WD after this incident but I can't say for certain this caused it because I haven't checked until now. Do you think this caused it? Is there a hidden/residual problem that I missed?
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