Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: ABS / Check Engine And Wrench Light All On At Once
Jul 24, 2014
Pulled into work and the truck was running fine then i got out and shut it off and went to start it again to move it 5 minutes later and it would start and misfire and chug and the wrench light came on as well as check engine and abs. I replaced the throttle body motor with the doorman part and I'm installing a new electronic pedal today as well.
The weird part is the chugging as i replaced all plugs and coil packs, plugs are champion double platinum. when all this started it was raining pretty hard out side I've cleaned all plugs with compressed air and used dietetic grease on most until i ran out. Truck is a 2006 f250 with 3v 5.4 automatic... Truck is my work truck and i am stumped on this .....could cam sensors cause the same issues? What about egr valve?
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I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
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We hadn't started our 2008 F250 in about 2 weeks. It got really cold the last few nights, about 10 degrees, so I thought I should start it. It started and ran for about 30 seconds, stalked, then the wrench light came on and it will not start. The truck only has 84k original miles and we just had a tune up about 8 months ago.
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Having problem with oil cooler pump throwing the wrench light? Dealer says it cools the oil and mine could be clogged a bit.. cost of total job around 8-10 k. And take cab off.
It seems when engine gets hot wrench light comes on cause not cooling oil down properly... it overheated. Gauges were very high.. Once when I was in full boost towing a ranger up a hill. First time it ever happened.. pulled over for 5 mins than started temp went back normal and finished tow no problem after that cause I kept boost lower!
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2007 ford f250 .... 200k on it ....
Just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well. On a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
No stock gauges showed any raises in levels.
No noticed loss of power at all.
The light would only come on once I drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles. It would not turn off when i slowed down, but when I would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off. Just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on. Took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid. What would trigger the wrench?
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So today. I filled my truck full of diesel. when I started it back up, it through the wrench light plus drain water separator. What it could be I have a loss in power. wont get over 45mph.
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1. About march 1, my check engine light came on- took it to oreileys for a scan and said Speed Sensor A (cannot remember code), I was not overly concerned to fix it very very busy.
*Drove about 800 miles no further issues except the annoying CE light*
2. ABS comes on a few days ago
3. Today the truck, 4 miles from home decides it wont let RPM's get above 2500, and 40mph. It slightly hard shifted once.
Truck has 97000 miles and is a 1999 V10 has NEVER had any tranny shifting issues or engine issues....
4. Check tranny fluid when we get home it does not smell burnt and is red- its not even that warm...
I have read a couple places that a VSS can cause this? But I never noticed my speedometer acting up EXCEPT for the day the CE light came on- which there was a lot of ice and tires were spinning and speedometer said 0.
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I literally just purchased a "new" 06 F350 and have had it just over a month. I bought it from a used car place in Salt Lake City and have put roughly 250 miles on it, it has 105k on it. While having 1 sled in the bed and towing a 1-place snowmobile trailer up a 8% grade my check engine light lit up. Little back story, there was a slight hiccup that I started to realize it had about a few days after purchasing it, would kind of buck a few times under normal acceleration around to 40-60 mph not every time just occasionally. Been meaning to take it to a friend to have it looked at, just been fairly busy.
Now when I was driving it back home (~8-10 miles, almost exclusively downhill) at stop light and accelerating from 0mph it would not prime the boost, I was getting almost no power until I hit 2000 rpm then all of a sudden things were fine turbo would engage I was able to drive normally. It hasn't moved in 2 days as I will not drive it until I know what is wrong with it. In doing a little research I read about turbo veins being stuck open, ignition problems, and a few other things that might pertain to what is going on with my truck. I have a buddy coming in the morning tomorrow to pull some codes with a scanner so I will have more information here shortly but I just wanted to get the conversation started on this.
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Solid yellow engine light. Sounds and drives fine. Is it always emissions or can it be something bad? I was going to leave sunday for a 2 month trip pulling the RV. Now stuck waiting for wednesday for dealership.
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I have a 2006 350 6.0l check engine light came on today truck is running normal except the fuel gauge and mile to empty gauges keep changing when I turn the truck off. What this could be?
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2001 F-350 4x4, 5.4 automatic.
Where to start , check engine light is on. Nothing seems wrong , trucks running good , nothing happened , just the light. I kinda like the truck so I would like to find out what its issue is?
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I have a 2011 f250 with the 6.2 liter gas engine. Lost power and the check engine light came on. I pulled the codes and it is a camshaft position sensor and 4 other codes for misfire on all cylinder for that bank. I can't find any info on where the sensor is located or how to replace it.
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I have a 2011 F-550 XL truck, I had a problem with an open injector4 and was forced to replace the engine, later, I had a problem while installing an OLEP kit, misplaced the hose and killed the engine (...i know... ) so, I changed 3/4 of the engine, just mechanical parts and reused the wires and cables, now the check engine light is ON with an oil pressure error, replaced the sensor and the error remains, replaced the computer and guess what ...again, the same error. What might be going on?...
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Just replaced the alternator in my 1993 Ford F250. How do I reset my check engine light? It keeps coming on after I drive for roughly 5 to 10 minutes.
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1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
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So yesterday I decided to wash my truck and after taking care of that I took it for a short drive and the tranny started acting funny. Check engine light comes on and the code is P0500 . It calls for a VSS but I cant locate it. Also the fact that it did after washing the truck is making me think its a wiring issue... F250 SD 5.4 4x4 ....
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My 2014 F-250 is having a repeat problem with an intermittent cell engine light. About 10000 miles ago it happened, and they changed out the egr cooler. Saying it was gummed up with soot. Problem just started up again. Light will stay on for about 3 or 4 restarts then sir off on its own. It's this a known issue with the 6.7? Is there a way to prevent it?
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I own a 2000 Ford F-250 5.4 Automatic. It tows my 5th wheel trailer very good. On our last trip it suddenly experienced the "check engine light" effect.
The light turns on randomly and either goes of after a couple of seconds or it doesn't go on when I restart the engine.It is mainly annoying, but when in towing it really hurts, because the engine switches into an emergency mode and stalls.
I read that the engine uses only 4 cylinders. I read many articles on the web about that light, but I couldn't find a solution. The thing is I brought the car to several repair shops but none read a code from the computer.
I think it's not a real fault but a misreading or maybe a cable that's grounding? The problem is, I can't bring the car to a repair shop, because there is nothing wrong with the car. How can I find the source of the problem?
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Traveling cross country & got a check engine light telling me "injector control pressure low". Replaced ICP sensor and injector pressure control regulator. Removed old one and installed the new one.
While looking for one of the nuts that attach the glow plug relay in the valley I found a small round part looks like maybe a valve seat. About 1/2" round with maybe a 1/4" four flute spline in the center. Has an o-ring on one end.
Is this something that followed the old ICPR out and fell off the end when It cleared the mounting hole? It looks like the ICPR would bear against this little thing.
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On my 2002 F250 7.3 I kept getting a check engine light when I pulled my 5th wheel uphill, I took it to a shop and they told me my HPOP needed replaced. I bought a new pump and installed it. Now my check engine light comes on and turns off during normal driving conditions. I do not have a code yet but hoping there is some idea on what might have happened.
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I bought a 06 f350 Friday night with 132,000 miles. No lights when we test drove or left the dealership. About 20 miles down the road the check engine light came on, truck ran fine so I continued the trip home no problem. Saturday night I had the codes check and it said a blocked EGR passage. Yesterday after a decent amount of driving a wrench light started popping on after 20-30 minutes of driving. But no memory code. Would that be related to the blocked EGR? Will cleaning the EGR fix both lights or what?
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