Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: A/C Compressing With Good Pressure But No Cold?
Apr 17, 2017
My a/c compressor crapped out a summer or two ago. I ordered a new compressor and dryer, oiled up the compressor properly, hooked it all up, vacuumed out the system, filled it with fresh 134a and it worked just fine for about a year. Mid-late last summer, the a/c quit working, so I hooked up my gauges to check it out.
Everything reads in the proper range. The high side is only about 150, which isn't stellar, but not terrible either - certainly enough to cool things down. Anyways, when I was sitting at idle checking things out, my compressor was running all the time and not cycling on or off. Given that I was not overcharged (according to my HF gauges), I tried to add a little more to it. It would only take half a bottle and the compressor never started cycling on/off, so I stopped tinkering with it for a while to think on it. I noticed that when I had it on driving in town, I could hear the a/c kick on and off every couple seconds like it was still low, but my gauges didn't indicate that it was low and it wasn't taking a charge like it was low. This whole time, the air from the vents is not even cool - just straight outside air temp and the lines don't feel cold either.
I had hot-wired my compressor to stay on and same story. The gauges show it's compressing with the low side right where it's supposed to be and the high side a tad low at idle, but easily jumping up to within spec with mild revs. The whole time, the vents and a/c lines are no colder than ambient.
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I have a quick question regarding tire pressure. Where we work, we have a 2005 F350.
Stock tire pressure for stock tires 275/70R18 states 65 PSI for the front and 75 PSI for the rear.
The truck currently has 295/65R18 tires all around. They are some sort of Wrangler tire, not sure of exact model, but they are more of a all-terrain tire. The truck sticks to the road though.
What would be the recommended cold tire pressure with these? Can I stick with what the stock tires would be?
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Found some oil and maybe coolant mix come out of one of my exhaust pipes. Trucks smoking pretty bad what is it?
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I'm in a real jam because my work truck won't start. 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel 157k mi. - Air and fuel filters were replaced in the last 500 miles. This pup ran fine when I parked it last Wednesday before the holiday.
Checked for start last night because I'd been having battery issues, Both were replaced the previous week. It's cranking good but just won't start, not even a bit. No wait to start light, oil level is good, can not get obd reader to link.
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The engine was just rebuilt, 7.3L diesel. New bottom end, cam and turbo also new harness for valve covers and injectors, new #8 injector(#8 cylinder lost compression). The engine cranks and idles great. Run it up to 1800rpm - 2200rpm and you get a miss or skip. Almost like the engine turns off and back on very quick, and it makes a clank noise. No codes, reading it with a OTC Genisys 4.0. I also swapped the PCM and IDM with another truck and it still does same thing. Other truck runs fine. Year model 2000 w/ 230,000 miles
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I drive a 2002 F-250 7.3l and have been having a lot of issues. The most recent one is that my truck won't crank unless I've had the block heater plugged in. Like I said in the title, the batteries are supposedly fine. They've been tested by a mechanic and Advanced Auto Parts. But when I crank the truck, it will only turn over for 10 seconds or so before it loses enough juice to even turn over. So it's kind of cold, but only 40-50 degrees, so I didn't think the truck would have that much of a problem starting. I'm wondering if my issues are a combination of an electrical problem and a heating issue.
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Dealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
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I have a 2002 f-250 7.3 diesel, i straight piped it but only by cutting muffler off and welding a piece of pipe in its place, it is pretty loud but id like to hear the turbo more like more of a whistle, it has a pretty good whistle once i get past 1500 rpm, is there a slightly bigger turbo i could put on without putting too much strain on the 180,000 mile engine?
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On my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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2014 f250 - tires call for 75 fronts, 80 rears. I have been running 60 in all four corners for 6 of the 7 months I have owned the truck. Just turned 8000 miles and yesterday morning the low tire pressure light came on. Checked tires and all good. What might be happening?
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I am working on a 2003 7.3 truck that I am having trouble starting, but once it is started runs well. I have installed manual gauges to both the low and high pressure pumps. The low is running 40 at an idle and 50 at 2000 rpms. The high is running 500 at an idle and 1200 at 2000 rpms. The low doesn't show pressure while cranking. Would you say the low or high pressure pump is bad?
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I am updating my efforts at diagnosing this.... The antifreeze never seemed to lose any fluid..... The truck lost all oil pressure and after draining the oil, It seemed to have chunks of ice in the pan ! (not anti-freeze then right ? ) The oil was totally slimmed up like a milk shake...... I pulled the oil cooler and took it to a radiator shop who pressure tested it and said no good news>>> No leaks >>> no easy fix..... Is there any way snow or rain water can get past the intake manifold and into the valley? I got a snap-on SVT cooling system pressure tester. The system holds 10 lbs for man hour without loosing a pound, while running under pressure the gauge does not fluctuate (The truck runs GREAT sounds like a nascar). I just did a valve and chain job 2 seasons ago (think I do good work like I give a rip about my own stuff )I put the right stuff gasket sealer around all the water jacket port on the head gasket....... Is there any other way water can get in this thing ? I am going to change the oil again,add sea foam and start driving it...
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Went to leave for work this morning & got a "low tire pressure" warning...checked at work (isn't it always the last tire you check?), going to have to keep an eye on the left rear..was down to 45
with all the money we spend on these rigs, why can't put in a tpms system that would allow us to see WHICH tire is low?
Any aftermarket system that allows monitoring of INDIVIDUAL pressure? (ultimately, it'd be nice to get a 4 axle system that would "communicate" with the trucks (very basic) system, but also allow monitoring of my RV axles as well)
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Carb rebuild and tune-up on my 370 and took for a test run. All of a sudden oil pressure was lost. I know catastrophic happened but was conned into dropping oil pan and put in high volume oil pump. now at 2000 rpm I have enough oil pressure to keep rods and mains from rattling but lifters are collapsed. At idle oil pressure drops to zero. It is a mechanical oil gauge. I know the tune-up had nothing to do with it but I did drive the truck about an hour before. A machine shop said the only way he knows oil pressure can be lost like this is for a cam bearing to come out [catastrophic].
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Ok here's the problem me and my dad just rebuilt a 7.3 in a 2001 f 350 we got everything running the got about 200 miles on the rebuilt the one day the oil guage starts freaking out we have replaced the sensor, pulled the cooler to make sure the plug wasn't stuck. the gauge gas the pressure is fine when the engine is revved up but when it idles it says it has no pressure. what else to look for. The engine is a rebuilt 7.3 turbo with oversized pistons everything else is stock.
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Got a 2006 6.0 won't build turbo pressure had to previous codes a p0098 and a p0405 I replaced the egr valve and the mafs codes went away but still no boost
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I was driving down the highway and the truck was in overdrive and under a load passing at about 20lbs boost and all of the sudden I lost all power, felt truck shake a little. The tow/haul light is flashing and got only one code P0730. The truck won't go into gear in either forward or reverse now, had it towed home and put a pressure gauge on it and found about 100psi at idle In neutral, in reverse and forward I got strange readings the pressure goes way up momentarily then down to 100psi, and increments back up to over 500 psi and seems to stay there but neither forward or reverse engage. I have no clue what could be wrong at this point. I am attaching a video .....
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 with about 70,000 miles on it and now the gauge indicates low pressure when my warmed up truck idles around 1000 RPM.
I went off road the other day into some mud and since then I have had my oil pressure gauge reporting low at idle and normal when moving.
I was a quart and 1/2 low on oil which I filled and the next day I changed the oil. I then had taken it Ford shop who replaced the oil sensor and said all fixed. It wasn't and I took it back in ... now the mechanic indicated it is probably the crankshaft bearing based on his experience and I should replace the engine.
This seems drastic? Wouldnt' the next step to go check/replace the oil pump?
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Ok, so I got this new Superduty that requires 80 psi in the rear tires and 70 psi in the front for 17" tires. What psi are you guys with similar vehicles using when driving around unloaded?
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Changing a fuel pressure regulator on one of these? I'm having an issue with it running really lean, like laying down with no power lean.I put the pressure gauge on it and I'm running an even 30 pounds at the rail. Changed the filter in hopes, but no change. Just changed the O2 sensors and they were both white.
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