Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: A/C Clutch Staying Engaged - Compressor Burned
May 23, 2017
I need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
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So I have an 02 f350 and I just recharged the ac system today. At first the clutch wouldn't engage, I tried tapping it and nothing. Then when I went to pull it out of the garage I left it in park to close the garage doors and I could hear it locking and unlocking.
I checked the voltage at the plug and am barely getting half a volt but it still doesn't lock up when I apply direct power to it. I didn't mess with the shims because I do not believe that to be the issue.
After I had shut the truck down and started it back up the clutch wouldn't engage at all. Do I just need to run the system or what? Its working just not consistently, I was thinking the oil needed to be recalculated a bit.
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So I've worked on this A/C for 3 years, I don't drive this truck very much or often, partly because the A/C doesn't blow cold. Its a 99 f250 7.3 ... Here's what I've done, first it was low on Freon so I added some and it got cold, take off driving and it gets hot. After some research I check the clutch air gap and pull a washer. This changes nothing, I put a valve on the heater core, so I could manually shut it off just in case.
This year I replace the compressor because the clutch isn't staying engaged when I revved it up in neutral. I went ahead and replaced the drier and Orifice Tube, the orifice tube was clogged up. So I start recharging the system, and I get 2 3/4 cans in and its blowing cold, low 50's high 40's its 75 degrees outside. The gauges read 35 low and 300 high, I'm a little confused cause it was suppose to hold 41oz from what I looked up but ok.
I rev the motor just to check everything out, the low side heads down for a second then starts going up, the high side starts going up and doesn't stop. The high side goes all the way till it hit the high pressure switch 450 wow. I'm thinking its over charged, I let it idle and the compressor kicks on and the low is around 50 and the high is at 350. So I rev it up again 1800 rpms or so, and the low side drops down and so does the high side. Except this time the low side drops down to 15 " I had the low pressure switch unhooked and looped" and the high side around 225.
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I was thinking my AC clutch has too much gap and was gonna do the "fix it" listed in another thread. However, my clutch wouldn't engage like it states needs to be done. The only time my AC blows cold is when it's cold/cooler outside OR I rev up the RPM's but it hardly stays engaged. I had a friend do a few diagnostics on it, with a paper clip (assuming he did it right) he feels my clutch is bad. But I've read the clutch is either good or bad, works or doesn't work, no in between.
Next, it doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to. I replaced the blower motor last summer, but even before that, it seemed to not blow very hard. If I have it on low, it's very hard to feel it. With a crew cab and 2 little boys seated in the back, they often end up sweaty and miserable, no matter how far we go. I've read the orifice tube might need to be replaced, or something needs to be cleaned cuz it's dirty or clogged like the orifice tube. But I can't remember what.
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Ok AC wasn't working took it to a mechanic told me the the compressor was missing a clutch he recommended i put a new compressor. Is it possible just to put a new clutch in it and if so do i have to remove the compressor to put the clutch on it.
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2003 V10.. Can I replace the AC compressor clutch with out pulling the compressor out?
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Got in my truck this morning and everything worked fine, no problems. Arrived at my destination and parked. Come out about two hours later start the truck and my A/C wont blow air, My truck is an 05 lariat so it has the climate control A/C. Everything was working fine it just wont blow air, When i turned the A/C on and off i could hear/feel the small thump of the clutch engaging on the compressor. I am thinking the blower fan just went south? or maybe something stupid that controls the blower fan? Summer is in full swing here in central florida, temps are 95+ not including the humidity...
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A cab light (OEM) has burned out. I'd like to replace it. What style/part number bulbs are used?
The closest tangential reference I can find is to 194, with additional references to 168 and 912. A Google Image Search of makes it seem like I'm getting warmer.
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I bought this truck used and the guy said it needed a new blend door actuator so I bought a new one off eBay I installed it, plugged the wire back in and turned on the key and it started smoking, it burned up. The wires have been cut before and have been butt connected back together. I notified the place I bought it from and they sent me back a new one but I'm scared it will do it again.
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My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
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For about a week or now i have been trying to track down a sound from my truck, i had another post up and was finally with jhl3 able to determine that the sound is coming from my transfer case. The other thread with video of sound is located here : [URL] .... I've got a little bit of time to mess with i now
Quick rundown, began hearing odd sounds about a week ago, determined that it is transfer case. Front hubs are unlocked, esof switch is set to 2wd. Can not turn front drive shaft. I just put some zip ties on front drive shaft and went for a short spin, determined front drive shaft IS turning. Hubs are not locked and 4x4 is not engaged, did the sharp slow turn test, no feel of pull from front end.
Im not quite sure where to go from here, going to check connections at tcase motor and some relays.
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My second Super Duty, a 1999 7.3 at random leaves the starter engaged after starting! Turn key off, starter disengages. Solenoid or ignition switch or? Batteries are good, and crank times are quick, but a while ago before replacing starter there were some periods of long cranking.
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I bought my 2012 F250 CC SB 6.2 back in December and really haven't had the truck in 4x4. Today we got a bit of snow. The roads were slippery so I engaged the 4x4 ESOF while at a stop sign (I know, didn't have to be stopped but I was so I put it in 4x4) The driveline was noticeably louder.
I had a relatively constant hum that almost reminded me of a wheel bearing going bad. If you've ever experienced a wheel bearing going bad the sound gets louder as you go faster. I'm sure it's not a wheel bearing since it only makes the sound in 4x4.
It's a fairly annoying sound and is louder than my old 99 F350. Notice the driveline being significantly louder in 4x4? There are no driving issues just a louder sound than what I was used to. I have the full Ford Certified warranty and can bring it in but I thought I'd run it by the brain trust here to get thoughts before going to the dealer.
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Was pulling passat home 50 miles round trip this saturday and downshifted into 3rd. As the gear engaged it let out a loud clunk locking into 3rd gear. was able to find neutral after a day but slammed into gear just idling. Can find neutral on pattern but not actually get there....also drags right rear tire upon disengaging clutch.
1999&half psd zf6 1 ton single....
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My 2005 F250 just had the cab off in December for head studs and gaskets. Its a Crew Cab short bed FX4 so it has ESOF. When I engage 4x4 the blower will switch from blowing air out of the vents to blowing air out of the windshield defrost. Is a vacuum line plugged in wrong somewhere, or is one cracked? Trying to figure this out, its rather annoying
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I have a 2006 Ford F 350 Super Duty ABS light comes on stays on till I shut the truck off and restart it this happens about once or twice a week
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Okay this is what I got; I recently purchased high mileage 2004 F250 Super Duty short box super cab 5.4 liter. Came with manual 4x4 handle on the floor so no 4 wheel on the fly and this eliminates the vacuum for the auto hubs so this will not be part of the problem. When engaging the hubs and ONLY when engaged the driver side hub grinds. The 4 wheel drive works but it sounds like its ready to grind itself into oblivion. I did pull the hub and the grinding was gone, I happen to have a spare hub that is good and the grinding returned.
I have jacked it up and made sure I have no play in the wheel itself and the axle knuckle on the axle shaft. Some say remove the front drive shaft? Or turn the wheels all the way in one direction engage the hubs and check for binding? I will do this in the morning, but what does that confirm if it not the hub. Could it be the passenger side echoing across? On my 99 Super duty I kept hearing moaning coming from up front like the breaks were shot and if you stuck your head out the window it was the back echoing to make it sound like the front.
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I have been having an issue with my blinker for the past few months. When the blinker is fully engaged, the right front blinker doesn't work. If I just push up on the blinker so it doesn't fully click into place, the right front blinker works fine, so it is not a burnt out bulb. I have also checked my blinker light in my mirrors and they work fine. Left blinker works fine. I am stumped on to what this can be and I need to get it inspected. 2005 F-250...
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Iv been chasing an electrical issue with my park lights staying on. Even with the #8 fuse out and the GEM unplugged the lights stay on.
They are being powered by the #4 fuse circuit that power mirrors, glove box light and under hood light are on. With that fuse pulled the park lights go off.
Now I have to figure out how the 2 circuits are connected.
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Dome lights staying on due to the door sensors, and the WD40 fix to cure it. Well mine has taken it a step further now. My truck won't recognize the closing OR opening of the driver door, and the driver door only. Naturally I tried the WD40 soak but it's been a few weeks now with no change.
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The light on dash for 4X4 stays on no mater where the switch is placed I have it in 2 wd and it stays on. Where I need to start looking.
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