Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: A/C Blowing Warm Air?
Jul 30, 2015
this doesn't make any since to , what's going is, sometimes the AC starts blowing warm air, I found out if I goose it I can hear what sounds like the damper door slamming shut, then AC starts blowing cold again. I changed out electric vacuum pump, but it still does it, starting to get worse & its hot.
Truck is a 2002 f250 powerstroke, the way I understand it, is only thing vacuum pump is supposed to control is AC & 4 wheel locks, my truck is only 2wd. I don't understand why when when I goose it ,it goes to working, what can I do to fix this.
I just found out the " heat and cool "adjustment is electrical, not vacuum, it goes to something under dash, but what it is, heat strip, reastat(sp)??? where and what damper am I hearing. It is not like heater is on ,not that hot, feels like ambient temp, I am at a loss...
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My manual heat/cold adjustment dial is working fine and transitions from heat to cold readily. However when in max heat, it is blowing luke warm. The higher the RPMs going down the road the warmer it blows (still not near as hot as normal), then idling at stop lights or in park it goes back to warm only.
My engine temperature is running normal at all RPM levels while driving and idling. Partially clogged heater core maybe, where higher RPMs force more water through it? I assume its not the water pump or thermostat since my operating temperature is staying normal...
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With the few hot days we have had here lately, I have noticed that after about a minute the AC will go warm and I will have to rev the truck up when it does to get it cold again. It seems the compressor is disengaging. I noticed that the condenser has a big gash with a tube ripped open on top. I know it needs to be replaced, but could that be causing the compressor issues? It's a 2003 7.3L.
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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The truck runs great when first starting up and driving, after 10 min a cylinder start to miss the same one ..
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Its a 2001 f250 with a 5,4. I just recently put a new shot block in it, the short block is a svt short block for an 01 lightning. every thing off old motor went on new svt block just fine, and it drop in just fine. only it will not warm up i let it run for 45 min the other day and on the gauge it would not come past the c. and i do believe the gauge to be accurate because the heat in the cab sucks and the top rad hose is just warm, not as hot as it should be. I've already put 2 new thermostats in it so I don't believe that to be the issue either.
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I've got a 2004 f450 6.0 diesel. This thing will start and run great when it's cold. Then when it gets to operating temp, around 190, it will shut down. This is getting worse and worse.
A little history, it was doing this for awhile and a had a few other issues before this. Puking antifreeze, stiction issues, and bad exhaust manifold. Since it wasn't running great I figured why not pull that cab and take care of these issues.
As of last week she got new head gaskets, new exhaust manifold, new injectors, updated standpipes, updated dummy plugs, new o rings on hpop (yellow on the bottom), and a new pipe to the oil pump. I have the old style it's not the stc fitting.
All that work, it still stalls when warm. I monitor with a scan gauge 2. ( Big diesel tech Ron's fan) ...
First thing, give here two second crank start right up, runs better then ever. Gets to operating temp, rev it up, then stalls. Ipc is at 85% ipr gets up to 180 psi.
Unplug ipc, shows 765 psi on the ipr still no start. Put shop air to her and I can't hear any leaks ( probably 15 mins or so).
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I have followed the vacuum lines but don't see any holes or cracked lines. I dont have the ESOF hubs so that is ruled out. Also checked the connector on the vacuum pump to make sure it still had power. Everybody says that when I turn the key to acc I should hear the vacuum pump running. I don't or do I feel it moving. Am I on the right track? I don't want to replace if not bad. Do all vacuum pumps run on keyed power? I honestly don't remember hearing it run before but that doesn't mean anything with my memory.
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My problem had been intermittent for last few days. I have a Ford Crew Cab - 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel. The ford store told me it would cost hundreds of dollars to chase this short- to wait til it finally burns out then - bring truck to them.?
My fuse # 45 a 10 AMP fuse . Keeps blowing out. This fuse controls the gauges on dashboard and fuel peddle. I can start engine and if gauges come up like they should- I can place into driver - and give engine fuel from peddle- gauges down dead and no fuel go to motor. It just idles and still runs and will still move forward or backward. But only at idle speed.
I could replace blown fuse - #45 - 10 amp and it would a the first few times would go and work normally.
Now everytime I replace fuse it blows fuse - sometimes after putting 10 or more fuses in- one might work until I stop or put into park. Then fuse blows again??
Last night and today it took no less than 20 - 10amp fuses to get close to home and end up straight wiring with a small piece of electrical wire - severing as a jumper- it ran great - til I stop at mail box and got mail - saw slight smoke and pulled wire quickly out and idled down driveway to house..
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When my hvac controls are turned to hot, I'm getting only luke warm air. When moved over to cold it feels like the a/c is on...granted it is 21 degrees here. What I've done so far:
1. Flushed the coolant system at the local COOP TBA
2. Flushed heater core-Both heater hoses are hot to the touch as well as the heater core itself. The hoses are within 10 degrees of each other tested by an infrared temp gauge.
3. Verified the blend door actuator is moving. I can see it spin while attached to the box as well as I pulled it out and plugged it in it will move from hot to cold.
4. Smacked the #$%! out of the blend door box.
The fan still functions as it should from low to high. The truck also gets up to operating temp as usual.
Is it possible the actuator is still faulty even though it moves and not going all the way to the heat side? I considered picking up a replacement but I hate to start throwing parts at it.
Did the blend door give up? The snow is here and I need the heat for those 4am waterfowl hunting trips.
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I have a 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel and my AC isn't working properly. On Max AC as you're driving it would be ok and then it would be warm and then cold and then warm and then cold and so on. I've noticed that the clutch stays engaged as well. I've never seen it disengage. The freon is at the level it needs to be. Then just a few days ago, if you have it on Max and High the air disappears from the vents and you hear a noise somewhere in the dash on the passenger side. I think something might have come off?? What's wrong with my AC with it going from cold to warm constantly? I heard that maybe clutch has too big of a gap?? I have almost 200,000 miles on it.
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I have 1700 miles on my truck and the A/C cycles between cold and warm air. I have taken it to 2 Ford dealers and they agree there is something wrong but their tests are apparently up to Ford specs. They logged complaints with Ford and they were told this was by design with the new trucks and it was normal for the compressor to constantly cycle. New 2013??
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2004 F250 V10, runs good until it warms up whether it's hot or cold outside. While on freeway, it really shakes while cruising, but of you get in the gas enough for a kick down, seems to be pretty smooth. I've changed the coils, and 9 plugs (one wouldn't budge, but the others I took out looked fine) to no effect. Where else should I look? Also, no CEL, and no codes, which seems odd as bad as it feels...
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My idle goes real fast 2500 rpm special when is warm can't get idle to go down for nothing took truck to camping on dirt road with the vibration idle came back to normal and stay for while and over the soon start again. No code...
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Started my truck the other day no problems,minute into the start truck shuts right off like someone turned key. Checked fuses , #30 fuse under the column was blown, replaced it and tried to start truck. No luck fuse keeps popping. After changing again i was able to get truck started for a second and POP goes the fuse?
1999 F550 superduty 7.3....
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1999 ford superduty keep blowing the 30 amp fuse under the dash, want let it start, why this is happening and the cause of it.
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I have 2002 F250SD, The horn just starts blowing by itself. Bump the horn switch and it stops for a couple of weeks. I've looked at the wires to the fuse box and no wires shorting out the horn wire. I read some very old posts but nothing conclusive was ever decided on, just a lot of guessing. The horn switch has always been sensitive.
Somebody said the air bag is warming up in the sun and expanding causing the horn to blow. Somebody said the horn relay, but in 55 years of working on trucks, I have never had a horn relay act like that. I'm told the horn relay is built in the back of the fuse box and it all has to be replaced. Some say the clock switch. I don't know what that is or where it is. I guess inside the steering wheel. Is it hard to replace?
Where do I go from here....
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Sitting in the house, heard a horn blowing and ran outside to find my F350's horn was blowing. When I pushed on the horn button on the steering wheel it quit. Couple of hours later, it started blowing again. Pushed the horn button to make it stop and removed the fuse so it would not start blowing again. Did a forum search, but didn't have any luck. Short in steering wheel?
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Why I"am blowing #19 fuse it is a 10 amp fuse. It is in the passenger compartment fuse panel. It controls the auxiliary powertrain control module (diesel only),Instrument Cluster, GEM Module, Overdrive Cancel Switch, Idel Validation (Diesel only), Overhead Console and Diesel PCM via Clutch. I would like to know where to start looking to solve this problom.
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My husband and I have 3 Excursions, V10, 6.0, 7.3 and I have a 6.0 250 crewcab. 3 of the 4 now blow air or heat from just the defroster unless your going at a slow speed.
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Got a little wild while i was in the trails the other day and was bouncing pretty hard and my headlight blew. Well now im on my third one and id suspect a short. This time it blew the bulb right apart so it must have got pretty hot. Any common problem areas i should look into before trying to figure this out?
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