Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: A/C Not Cold - Knocking / Buzzing / Clicking - Faulty Blend Doors Or Recharge?
Jun 16, 2015
2008 F-250 Lariat with EATC climate controls... My truck suffers from the knocking/buzzing/clicking that is apparently associated with faulty blend door actuators. I have been putting off getting them replaced because of the hefty price tag associated with tearing apart the dash and whatnot that is required to get to the lower actuator that sits right on the transmission tunnel. Anyhow, today was the first day I really needed A/C and it just wasn't cold. Cool yes, but not cold. Is there a way to determine if this is a function of the blend door(s) not doing their thing versus the system A/C needing a repair/recharge? I don't have access to any A/C equipment myself, how to determine if it's a blend door issue?
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I think the truck needs a recharge, it's not blowing any cold air. The question is - which port do I use? There's one on the top of the accumulator and another in the line just off the passenger side of the radiator, near the coolant tank.
My only recharge experience was after I replaced a leaking accumulator in my 2007 Crown Vic police interceptor, and this obviously doesn't look quite the same.
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Ok, I know the problem is the blend door, but not which one. I hear a clicking constantly whether the truck is started or not near the center of the passenger side. I can adjust the temp to be 65-70 on the driver side and be fine, but the passenger side is hot. I've looked for TSB's for 2010 and have come up empty. I bought the truck used, and bought an extended warranty, but not sure it will cover this repair.
Is there a TSB for this? If you had this done at the dealer, how much did it cost to repair? Would you attempt the repair yourself? I've taken the dash apart to find the problem, but then determined it might be too involved for me to do and I wasn't comfortable disconnecting the air bags.....
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Where is the low side hook up to charge my a/c 2003 f250 v10
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2002 F350 with V10. A/C stopped blowing cold. I can hear the clutch clicking on and off, so probably needs refrigerant? Other thing is that with A/C off, the temp control turned to cold, and fan on, it blows hot air. On my other vehicles with A/C off and temp turned to cold, I get outside air at ambient temp.
I removed the cover off the evap core under the dash and observed the blend door opening and closing as the temp selector is moved. The duct door moves correctly, so am I'm missing something? Is the Ford system such that ambient air is always heated? This happens even in cold temp conditions.
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I know there is a motor or switch that I can remember the name of that is in the dash somewhere that controls the Defrost and regular cabin flow. I am not good with A/C, and was wondering, what is the name of it, and is it something I can get to behind the glove box or is it very complicated?
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I bought this truck used and the guy said it needed a new blend door actuator so I bought a new one off eBay I installed it, plugged the wire back in and turned on the key and it started smoking, it burned up. The wires have been cut before and have been butt connected back together. I notified the place I bought it from and they sent me back a new one but I'm scared it will do it again.
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My ex-has the electronic temp control. I've noticed there is very little difference from full hot to turned down less than 1/2 way.
(I'll convert to Fahrenheit here) Example - lowest temp setting is 60. If I am on heat, turning it from 60 to 66, gives me almost full hot. A slight difference is felt turning it to 68 and 70, but basically, 70 is full HOT. Continuing to turn it up to 88 makes zero difference.
I figured the blend door actuator might be toast, but it is in fact moving. I pulled the heater core cover off and here is what I noticed.
At 60, the blend door is fully open (correct, pulling cold air from outside) turning it to 66 the blend door almost fully closes. then the last little bit gets closed when going from 66-70. Anything hotter than 70 is of no use because mechanically it IS on full hot at 70. So basically I get full cold, or full hot, nothing in the middle. I pulled blend door actuator out, cleaned all the built-up crud around the shaft, took it apart and cleaned it, (no broken gears) no effect.
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sitting at a redlight with radio off, sounds like heater door or something under the dash is moving. Thing is, all the controls for heater and a/c were off.
2009 f250 5.4.
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2008 F-350 Lariat, 6.4L, dual climate control. The passenger side blows ONLY hot air whereas driver side seems to blow whatever is called for. Is it right to assume this is the passenger side actuator, and this actuator is the "easy" one to replace (i.e. not pulling dash)? I read in another thread that there might be a question on determining the correct one to replace, so therefore I ask for clarification. How to verify if my assumption wrong?
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I own a 2003 f250 superduty v8 gas. I have a buzzing noise that comes and goes. It comes from the dashboard area around the steering column. However it goes away when either I press on the brakes, hit the signal or press my tow brake control.. And I could go days and not here it then it will be there for a few days and then it goes away again...
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I had a buzzing noise on acceleration so today I cut all the heat shields off the exhaust system and also bent the bottom of the transmission inspection plate toward the front of the motor. It cured the buzzing noise but when I started the truck up there was a new rattle kind of sound, so I looked and found my y pipe is cracked where the passenger side pipe comes down off the manifold and connects to the pipe that goes to the cat converter.
I don't want to get a whole new y pipe could I order the spd Y pipe and that should work out right? it should be cheaper than a whole new y pipe aswell. I filled up the crack (it cracked 360) with weld but it was tissue paper so I would like to fix it before winter. I also still need to do my passenger side manifold studs and weld a new muffler because I found the rear half of mine is rotted off lol so I will probably do this all at one time.
I'm probably just going to pull everything manifolds and back off the truck, I have a feeling theres a bunch of rust sitting in front of the cat or muffler making the new rattling noise. Also in all my years of wrenching I have never figured out an easy way to get the exhaust off those rubber hangers, I always try to spray wd40 in there to get them to slide easy but always end up tearing them while trying to get them off.
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2 weeks ago, I purchased a 2015 F250 6.2 with 16K miles. Upon bringing her home, I noticed that there is a buzzing noise coming from the engine compartment after I shut down the motor which lasts approximately one minute (give or take). Since the truck is still under factory warranty, I figure I'll take it to the local dealership, but I'm wondering with the 6.2 has had the same issue and what the issue could possibly be.
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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I have a 6.8l V10 that ..... seems.... to be knocking. I am used to hearing v8 knocks but not so sure about a v10. The knock seems to double tap sometimes. Could this be a bad valve or lifter instead? Video is linked.
Also oil pressure seems to be fine.
[URL] .....
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I just bought a 2000 Super Duty last week When I looked at it and test drove it, the doors unlocked with the fob. Then I bought it and the doors would not unlock with the fob. A day later, they would not unlock with the door controller. I can hear them clicking and see them move slightly. Where to start checking?
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A while ago both back doors on my 01 crew cab stopped working. The outside handles jiggle loose but the inside ones feel like normal. They both went at about the same time. If it's those little black boxes that mount by the handle on the door, how do I even get to it to change it if it's stuck shut? I can't reach my hand in there either to even try to see what's wrong with it. How to get it open?
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My 2004 powerstroke recently started making a loud knock during the process of starting. Will make the sound warm or cold, however I mostly hear it when the truck is warm as it cranks a little longer and about two seconds into the crank something starts knocking. After the truck starts it runs perfectly fine.
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I have a 2004 F-250 SD, Crew Cab, 6.0L diesel. Out of the blue, when opening the door with the key off and out, the dome lights stopped working, the radio wouldn't shut off and I would get no warning that I had left my lights on (nor any other warning coincident with the door opening). Just as if the truck is not detecting the door being opened.
One would immediately suspect the door switches, except that this was a suddenly occurring problem that affected all four doors, by sheer odds, pretty much negating this problem as one to do with the door switches. Still, I did spray the switches with WD40, couldn't hurt, right?
I have replaced relays (#306) with known good relays, I have pulled and looked over every single fuse. I have read of door post wiring issues with F-150's that speak to this issue for that model, but am not convinced that translates to the F-250. I'm at a loss, and almost perfectly convinced this is a computer problem (the GEM, though it's called something different now). But before I go replacing expensive computers, I would like to know how to diagnose this.
As it is, I've learned to live with the fact the radio will stay on when I get out of the truck and will time out after 10-20 minutes. I've learned to live without the dome light coming on and have counted my blessings when the foresight of some engineer saved me from a dead battery by knowing that I would leave the manual dome light switch on from time to time. I've learned to look back at the truck to make sure I haven't left the headlights on. In other words, I've learned to live with this problem.
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I have a E99 f250XLT 4X4 Crew Cab PSD.
I have been on this site for the better part of 2 hours searching for my switch problem to no end. Most everything I am pulling up has to do with the lock actuators. I have a switch on the drivers side that will not lock any of my doors. The passenger side switch will work just fine as well as the key fob. All of my actuators work for all 4 doors. No issues with the dome light or door ajar light staying on.
Here is what I have done so far:
I have taken the passenger door switch off and put it on the drivers side and it will not lock the doors.
I have bought a re-manufactured driver side door lock switch and installed it and it did not lock the doors.
I have taken a jumper wire and grounding a pin on the drivers side switch harness and can get the doors to unlock but i can't get it to lock.
Where and what color wires to look for in a harness at the door kick panel or anywhere I might look for a broken wire? It is really frustrating that I can not lock my doors without using my remote.
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When I put the truck in to park, the doors do not unlock. They work fine with the button or the key fob. What do I need to do to fix this issue. Its quite annoying considering I have passengers with frequently that need to open the door a lot.
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