The other day I pulled into the parking lot put it in park and let it idle for a couple minutes, it stumbled and when I started driving off it was missing. I pulled the valve covers off and check the connection.. I drove it home and it had a bad misfire at 1500 RPMs. The truck shook violently at that RPM but when I got it up over 2000 smooths out..
View 1 RepliesI have an '04 EX with 6.0. When braking at highway speeds the rear end shudders until I get the truck slowed down some. Around town speeds of 45 or less the problem is almost non-existent. It almost seems to be hydraulic instead of pads/rotor issue. Wouldn't a warped rotor show up at slower speeds as well? I have some good mechanics around, but have never found a great brake shop that I can trust. Go in needing pads and they try and upsell saying this or that is going out.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2011 f250 6.2 cclb and it shakes around 70 to 75 mph. Not terribly but enough to annoy the crap out of me. Now I have put new tires on it recently, new Rancho 9900 adjustable shocks, I have it aligned regularly and tires rotated and balanced every 5000 miles or so. I have had two dealerships look at and my local shop and they can't see anything visibly wrong with it.
View 7 RepliesHave a 2007 F250 6.0 diesel with the standard issues including misfire at highway speed. Assume the bulletproof kit also cures the stiction problem? in reviewing the threads and looking at the vendors, references are made to fixing the oil cooler issue, egr issue, etc., but no one addresses stiction issue directly.
View 10 Replies2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.
First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.
After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.
Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded
To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.
My factory-ordered 2016 F250 CC SB 6.2L 4X4 3.73 is about 6 weeks old. Driver and passenger side door rattle noise (in upper back corner) at highway speeds (65-75 mph) has gotten progressively worse over those 6 weeks. See attached video.
Trying to determine if this is caused by:
Door seals: the temperature here in Iowa has dropped from a few weeks in the 90's to the now in the mid-60's.
Could the temperature change have caused the seals to change shape/structure and result in the rattle/noise?
The exterior seal between the front and back doors (attached to front of the back door): mine seems a little loose on top, but nothing that would cause this kind of noise.
I noticed a moaning from the front end a few weeks back and it seems to be slowly getting a little worse. It is only noticeable when I'm accelerating or maintain speed, but as soon as I let off the accelerator and start to decelerate, it goes away. Sometimes, when the truck hasn't been driven for at least a couple hours, I pull away and there is a really noticeable sort of "clunk clunk clunk" but then it goes away and it just moans. I can also hear some noise from the front end at highway speeds, but of course it is hard to hear much else other than engine and road noise from the cab. It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3 and four wheel drive.
View 8 RepliesI am new to Super Dutys but i love them! Altho mine is not being so nice. It has the 5.4 in it. When its idling it has a stumble to its idle with a pop every now and then out the exhaust. It revs fine when its first started. If i pull out on to the road and start away easy its ok a slight miss but if i put the throttle down its just falls on its face. But if i get it up to cruising speed its ok as well. But even at cruising speed more then 1/8 throttle and it starts missing and falling on its face. What it could be? It smells like its running lean as well.
View 14 Replies06 F250 6.0 with only 65,xxx miles on it. This has happened twice and both times the engine was warm and had been cut off for less than 10 min.. When I tried to crank it back up it stumbled and idle roughly then cut off. After several attempts to re-crank it still would idle rough and I tried to give it fuel but no change, even with pedal fully depressed. Then it would die.
After sitting a few minutes it starts normal. Both times I didn't have my obd2 adapter for my torque pro. The last time it happened I went home and hooked it up and got no codes. Everything looked fine. What could it be, where should I start looking. Batteries are1.5 years old. Oil, oil filter, and both fuel filter changed about 1000 miles back. I have had the truck for 1.5 years and the oil has been changed twice.
I have a 2006 f350 6.0l. I was driving home from work and all of a sudden I had no gas pedal. It would stumble and die with a bunch of white smoke out the tail. It also is not using the turbo at all no boost. I have a edge monitor and the engine codes it's kicking out are in the picture below. I have a warranty but the dealership that we bought it from and the closet ford dealer is 30-40 mins away and they don't currently have a diesel mechanic to work on it so I would have to go almost 1hr 20 mins to get to the next dealer. Will it hurt it to drive it that far?
View 2 RepliesThe last couple weeks my excursion had started to have a stumble and smoke white ate the first startup or after I let it sit for a long time. I did get progressively worse. I noticed the hpop line to the driver side head was leaking from the fitting so I rebuilt the boss fitting and now it's not leaking but when I started it up this morning it did the same thing.
If I give it throttle it clears up pretty quickly but if I let it just idle it will put white for probably 5 minutes. I have no codes showing when I looked with the scanner I don't see any other oil leaks and I don't smell a fuel leak.
My 2003 just doesn't drive right anymore. I bought some new tires and all of a sudden it crabs when on the highway 70-80 mph. I have new ball joints. Hubs, and a few other front end parts to rectify the issue with no luck. Alignment shops haven't been any favor either. Tire shop replaced the tires with sweet michelins that worked minimally. So I went to measure the wheelbase, center to center and sure enough there is a 1-1/2" difference between the left and right side. I have had a few minor bumper dings, one at appx 20 mph, but nothing earth shattering. Can something be loose in the rear end? It does feel like the rear wants to swing around and be in front.
View 8 RepliesIve read here that our trucks can lose all of their AC fan speeds except High - mine has done that as well. However, even High on my truck doesn't blow much air. I looked behind the glove box for an interior air filter, thinking it might be clogged but couldn't find one. What could be stopping my blower from putting out?
View 2 Replies02 f250 SD 5.4 zf6 manual xcase ext cab long bed...
When I'm cruising down the highway it's most noticeable. 5th gear anywhere from 65mph+ I'll let off the gas and it'll make a "errrRRRt" until I press the gas again. I've recently installed new :
- Front u joints, ball joints, hub assemblies, rotors, calipers, pads
- Rear drive shaft u joints
- Front diff fluid
- Trans fluid
- Tcase fluid
- 4" zone lift kit
All of these things did nothing to effect the noise. it seems to be coming from between the clutch and rear shaft (either clutch, trans, tcase). I don't think it is a motor noise or suspension noise.
I have a 1999 f250 v10 auto. It has 3 miss fires thats im stumped with .. Ive replaced all spark plugs, all coils , I've had injectors out and were cleaned and it still miss fires. I can disconnect the coil and injector on the cylinders and the motor runs the same. Ive swapped the coils and injectors around to make sure it wasn't them. What else could it be? Frustrated I've had the truck for 2 years and haven't figured them out. Ive had them go away for at most a day. Also the truck has a shake at 80 kmh not sure if its from the miss...
View 13 RepliesNew, 2 month old 2015 CC, gas 4x4 with standard bed. At 50-55 I have a rolling vibration, or it can even be explained as a slight growl. Seems worse since I upgraded to 285/75/18 Toyo AT's and new wheels. If i speed up to about 60, goes away. If I pop it down to 5th gear, it seems to go away, however, I need to try this a few more times to make certain.
View 9 RepliesI am yet another sufferer of the 40mph vibration syndrome I commonly read about on this site. I have had my 2006 f350 club cab sd to the dealership about 7 times for this, and now am being told it is a normal characteristic of this truck. They have replaced wheels, tires, vibration machine analyzed, put on a vibration damper, etc., but nothing fixes the problem. It has done it since the day I drove it home.
How many of you out there are upset about their super duty that jumps up and down at certain speeds? Lately, my dealership has had my truck more than me. From the amount of posts I see about this problem, I am certainly not alone. Ford is now trying to brush me under the carpet, yet I have a truck with a built in gyrator that is totally unacceptable. The truck now has about 20,000 miles of bouncy misery on it, and it isn't getting better.
I have a 1999 f350 v10 stock truck. It has plenty of power when it's cold out or raining or I'm on backrooms or highways but if I drive through town on a hot day the transmission kicks bad I have changed the fluid and filter, it also seems to shift at a high rpm from 2nd to 3rd. Unless I you let off quick and go back on kinda like engaging a 2 speed rear end. Does it need a bigger trans cooler or is the trans shot
View 4 RepliesOnly 2 speeds of the 4 speeds are working on my blower. I was thinking it may be the switch, but someone at the shop told me to replace the blower resistor first. I did that and still only have 2 speeds. Im guessing I need to replace the switch now?
Also, I am having problems with my heat adjustment. I have it set to warm (half way between cold and hot) and out of the blue it will start blowing hot. I turn it down all the way to cold until it blows cold air and turn it back to warm, and it will be fine for a few minutes and start blowing hot again. Vacuum problem? blend door problem? How would I go about trouble shooting this problem?
I have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
Driving down the highway, battery gauge read fine power, but battery light came on. In a remote Alaska situation so I couldn't diagnose, plus truck is new to me. Kept driving towards civilization. All gauge dropped. Then lights dimmed, then truck died. This was over about 15 miles. At night with lights on. Truck has a plow with plow lights, aftermarket cranking stereo which I was using, heater on (Alaska). It sits 70 miles up the highway from where I'm at getting ready to go back and work on it. So...
Of course first thought it is the alternator, not providing enough power for all this. Looked inside, it is a newer looking reman. Belt is fine. My question is, if not this, what else could it be? I'm hoping to haul the alternator and whatever else out there and get it going without having to drive back and forth for more stuff I need. I can always return stuff I don't use. Probably I'll throw a new battery in it as well. But after that, anything else I should be thinking/ready for?