Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 6.4L - Oil Leak From Rectangular Rubber Grommet On The Front Of Transmission Bell Housing?
May 12, 2015
Noticed a small oil spot on my drive way where i park my truck the other day. Got up underneath and saw it was leaking from a rectangular rubber grommet on the front of the transmission bell housing.
What could be causing this? Have heard a few different things, turbo line leak, turbo pedistals, HPOP leak. Seeing what Super Duty Nation thought of the problem. Going to the dealer sometime this week.
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New to me truck has 80k on it, it's leaking at the bell housing. Pulled the inspection plate and it's definitely red stinky automatic transmission fluid. Back of the torque converter is clean.
Ford warranty has run out, however I do have an aftermarket warranty on the truck. Trans temp isn't above normal or running hot.
I'm a very mechanically inclined engineer, I do not work on cars for a living, but I have replaced an input shaft seal on a 4wd transmission before. That's my best guess as to what's leaking. Is this a common issue?
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I was just under my 2000 F250 7.3l crew cab truck and noticed a small diameter rubber hose dangling from my front drivers side brake housing area. It is attached near two other cables which are similar to cables on the passenger side. I don't see a similar hose on the passenger side. The hose is completely deteriorated and broke off up higher towards the engine. I cannot see where it goes. What it may be?
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I noticed an oil leak out of the front housing of my 2016 350. I have 3 Ford dealers nearby and all 3 can't get me in until 8 August. It looks to be just a few drops daily. Is it safe to drive pulling a 5th wheel until they get me in? The leak is at the bottom of the housing.
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I just recently had to replace the extension housing on my truck. Well after doing so I went to start it up and top off the tranny fluid and it started to leak out on the left rear side of the transmission near the extension housing. Ive looked and looked and found that the fluid is coming from the top right in front of the extension housing but when i clean it off there seams to be no holes or cracks. It isn't the housing seal, cause it pools in front of that. What could be the issue? My truck is a 01 F250 4X4 5.4L.
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I trying to see if this is something that is a easy fix or mayor work. Leak coming from that metal housing behind alternator. Does this housing came off? or do I need to take out the intake out? .
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Made a short run to get lumber yesterday and when I got home the truck smelled hot I checked it out and found a transmission oil leak at the rear of the transmission in front of the transfer case. can not really see what is leaking only has 22,000 miles. What may have happen. 2011 F250 4x4 6.7....
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Only when running heat or defrost, coolant leak looks like it's coming out of the bell housing. I have a supercharger so very difficult to see behind motor, but with inspection camera, heater hose lines look dry. firewall looks dry. No coolant in cab. No steam on windows or smell. Pretty sure not casting/ freeze plugs because absolutely no leaking with heat off. Can run for days with no loss, then turn on heat and within minutes/ seconds coolant puddling in driveway. Is the hose that runs through valley pressurized only when heat is on? I saw a few older threads but as far as I could tell none specified heat on/ heat off conditions. Just started problem after doing some other work, hoses were off radiator and intercooler, replaced radiator. None of those connections are the culprit.
98 F150 Lariat 1900 TVS S/C Chiller Killer I/C 19PSI Snow performance WMI
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My '96 ranger, 4.0, auto transmission has developed a coolant leak. It is at the rear of the engine, passenger side, at or just above the bell housing. I can't quite see where it is leaking from even using an inspection mirror from on top or underneath. The engine runs great. I just finished replacing the power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer and hoses. What is back there? Freeze plug? Do I fear the worst and that the head or block warped? I may drill a hole from the passenger compartment to try and get a better view.
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I have a coolant leak somewhere on the top of the engine running down to the oil pan and bell housing. I have done some research and discovered it could be the coolant inlet tube to the turbo.
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Came out of a turn, went to grab third, clutch went to the floor and didn't come back. Stopped, pumped pedal for a bit, managed to get into first and milked it home. There's nothing leaking, but fluid level was low. I topped fluid, pumped pedal and bled the block at the tranny, pressure came up and I was able to engage gears. Pulled into garage and same issue, no pressure and clutch won't disengage. Pedal is soft. I'm thinking I managed to get some air in the system. Question is if the slave failed, wouldn't I have a leak at the bell housing?
Do I have to drop the tranny to bleed the slave? Also, my stock clutch on APR stage 1 was doing ok before this issue. There was chatter and/or other noises in the clutch at take off but no real issue with slipping. I'm thinking I'll go ahead and replace the clutch. I'll be dropping the trans on a rack in my friends shop.
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I have a motor oil leak on a 1991 Chevrolet S10 pickup, 2WD, 2.8L, manual transmission.
The leak is around the bell housing area. The oil covers the bell housing and the transmission.
I think it is either the rear main seal or the back of the oil pan gasket. But how can I know for sure? It is difficult to see the back of the oil pan.
Would the oil INSIDE the bell housing be proof positive that it is the rear main seal? I have not looked inside yet.
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Daughters 94 f150 4.9L 204K miles e40d started leaking transmission fluid from the bell housing, so she parked it for 2 years...Now I have been nominated to fix it... Truck was running good when parked. Got it started (Just charged battery and started it up), and backed it up. Reverse is good and solid. When I tried to move it, it wouldn't move in drive. Starts to engage, then drops out. Pulled into first, and the truck moves, but have to have high rpm.
Replaced tc seal, filter and fluid, (12 quarts). No change... Ran it down the road, had to start off in first, good power up to about 35, shifted to second, it shifted...ran up to 45, then shifted into drive, it shifted, and maintained power. Had to slow so stopped and turned around, tried moving out in drive, and it just kept dropping out. Returned home as I left...read a lot of this forum, and learned some but not enough..
Pulled codes 327,116,536,538. No transmission codes.
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I see an oil stain on/surrounding the lower half of what I'm guessing is the PTO cover on the side of my manual transmission. (rectangular plate bolted to side of tranny) I couldn't find a gasket at any autoparts stores. Is there a gasket or did Ford just use a sealer? Would red RTV work ok here instead of a gasket? Or should I use something else?
2004 F250 SuperDuty 4x4 CC, V10, 6 speed manual tran
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Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
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I have an F250 4.2 diesel 4x4 double cab. Its a2005 model. I noticed an oil leak from the front left axle. It looks like its leaking from the axle tube. See pic attached. Is a seal probably worn? How big a job is this to fix.
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Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
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99, F250, 4X4, V10, 72,000 miles. I have had the front axle seals replaced three times in the past 3000 miles, and the right continues to leak. My mechanic screwed up three times?
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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