I have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
View 1 RepliesI just picked up a 2012 F350 lariat with about 65 000 miles on it, and while driving home, it popped up with reduced engine power on my screen. Tried adding DEF fluid, seems to right up to the top already, no actual change in engine performance either. Also, no check engine light or service light on (wrench light)....never run across this before and am totally thrown off. Haven't taken to dealer yet...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2015 SRW f350 and has been fairly problem free. Last Thursday I was driving home and I received the reduced engine power and code popped up P0088, high pressure fuel rail issue.. anyway, I just popped over 36k miles, the truck is at 36,278 miles, so I take it in thinking they will goodwill it.
I get a call saying they can't clear the code and the TCM AND PCM can't communicate and they have to reach out to Ford engineering. They find the PCM is corrupt, they call me twice and ask if the truck has been tuned, the answer is no, but then pin me against the wall saying I am the second owner, which I am, and that it could have been tuned prior. I tell them to prove it, you can see if there has been a tune. The truck truly has never been tuned, it was sold at Ford factory auction as a employee vehicle.
Now they are trying to tell me the corruption was due to the tune, which it never had. But they won't goodwill it and say I am responsible for all the diag and work done, I say no. I say this should be a warranty issue and should be covered, they say it was tuned, I told them to prove it.
I had my fuel filters changed at the dealership today on my '15, and then I bought fuel and headed home (70 miles). About half way home I got a "Low Fuel Pressure" message and a little while after that "Reduced Engine Power" along with the check engine light.
I pulled over to see if they did something like leave the drain open, thinking it might be sucking air. Of course it was dark and I could not see anything. However I did hear a buzzing sound and could feel a vibration when I touched the fuel line going into the top of engine filter.
While it is possible I got bad fuel, I suspect they did something wrong installing the filters. Even after cycling the fuel pump multiple times they had a hard time getting it started afterwards; I think they finally disconnected the top fuel line to bleed the air out.
I continued home and made it, but not sure what to do now; its 70 miles back to the dealer.
What is the most likely problem? Improper fuel filter installation or bad fuel?
Should I pull the filters in the morning see if there is something obvious like an out-of-place gasket? If so, top or bottom filter?
Is this a tow truck affair or should I drive 70 miles back to the dealer?
What the heck is the buzzing sound?
The wife and I were driving back to Sacramento yesterday. It was pretty hot around 95 when we left Stonyford, CA after a day of trail riding with our dirt bikes. From the staging area to the freeway, the distance was about 40 miles of slow twisty roads. We average around 30-45 miles per hour with full AC running. Once we got to the freeway and drove about 20 miles, we pulled to a McDonalds at which point I noticed a weird smell and smoke coming from under the hood. We opened the hood and notices smoke coming from the middle of the engine. I also noticed coolant leaking from under the engine. I waited an hour and then pour about 3 gallons of concentrate coolant back into the system. It seems to stopped leaking. We drove another 45 miles to home. Coolant hasn't leaked. I can't take this truck out until I figure this out and fix it.
View 8 RepliesWhat causes elevated engine idle when cold or initial startup? Asking another way, what would cause it not to have the elevated idle on start up?
View 14 RepliesPurchased my first used Super Duty 2011 F250 6.2. Love the truck. This is my 3rd ford truck. I get home from work, so the truck is warm. Sit for 20 min, then leave to take the kids to their games. After turning onto the street then accelerating power is lost for 1-2 seconds, then the truck continues to accelerate. If I let off the pedal, then the truck will slow down, if I hold the pedal position of push down it does nothing. This is going to drive me crazy. Not sure if this is a TCM reprogram issue? It only does this on the initial take off. I want to start playing with my new truck, but want to fix this bug first.
View 5 RepliesTrying to find a bit of information for my dad. He has a 2008 F250 with the 6.4L PS. It recently started making this horrible screech on his initial take off from park. After he let's off the gas and brakes, the truck won't make this noise again for the rest of the time it's on. He ended up replacing the turbo, and that did not resolve the issue. I believe the Y pipe was checked and it was fine. What it could be that would cause it only on the first acceleration?
View 5 Replies2007 f350. About 2 weeks ago my truck started smoking really bad, and I took it in to have it diagnosed. It was 4 injectors that were bad, so I had them replace all 8 and also install a bullet proof oil cooler. From the moment I got the truck back, it did not seem to idle as well as it used to, and over the next week, it began to blow a good amount of white smoke and run very rough.
But the weird thing is when I took it back to the shop to have it diagnosed, the minute I pulled into their driveway, it ran perfect, and they were unable to pull up anything. The next morning, I started my truck for work and as I drove down the street, the truck ran extremely rough, and seemed to be running in 2 cylinders. I shut the truck down, restarted it and it ran a little better, as I limped it back to the shop.
Does it need a diesel fuel injector?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 6.4L turbo diesel. Without a trailer on a mtn incline I have no issues. She will fly up the hill and she is quiet when I'm not pulling the 10,000 Lb trailer. When pulling the trailer, I have a loud howling noise and reduced performance. I had it at the Dealership and I had them check the engine/turbo and they found no problems? I asked if they tested under load and they said yes?? Someone suggested that the "Waste gate valve" was defective.
View 4 Replies2000 Excursion 4x4 v10 auto. Pulling the boat last weekend up the driveway from the lake and the truck started smoking under the hood at the top of the drive. Jump out and saw a fire under the pass floorboard. Go the hose and put it out in 30 sec. Thought i blew a trans line and it sprayed on the cat. Took it to the shop and he said lines are good it's not leaking. He said it is possible that the trans over heated and built up pressure and blew it out past the front seal.? What happened or how to prevent it from happening again?
View 13 RepliesAll week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
View 10 RepliesI would like to know what's happening, it seems as if idling for a minute to let my transmission temperature dial raise past the lowest line on the dial fixes or at least drastically reduces a couple issues.
The truck will deliver power much smoother off the line. I've been concerned about this for a while. The degree to which it happened wasn't constant but it seems like the truck is having trouble grabbing on (so to say) to the power coming off the line. I sort of liken it to a rope. When I give it the beans the rope goes forward but it takes a half a second or so for the truck to "grab" on to the rope. Never hard shifts, it's just delivering the power off the line or from a near stop.
Idling for a minute seems to fix this, power delivery is smooth off the line. Transmission dipstick was nice and pink but smelled slightly burnt. This is with the engine cold overnight. Didn't have time to do multiple wipes or check in the handbook for the proper methods of checking fluid, I just pulled it out quickly to take a look before heading out. Fluid covered the whole tip.
Second issue that seems to be fixed is that the battery light doesn't come on nearly as much and not for nearly as long. Typically the battery light will come on and off seemingly on its own whim during the drive. However, it seems to stay more consistently off if I idle right after startup.
Now bear in mind I baby my truck, I don't rev it high right after startup. Just low enough to cruise around the parking lot until I hit the road then I accelerate up to 40 - 60 depending on my route. I'd gladly give it the minute to warm up in the future but if I could get down to the bottom of this that'd be preferred, I doubt this is required behavior.
I do realize that these issues are not tied to startup behavior but I find it interesting that idling for a minute at startup to let the transmission gauge rise seems to mitigate these symptoms.
My F-350 has developed a new problem. It wont start. It wont even turn over. All Electricity is on, glow plugs glow, gauges work, lights work, but when you turn the key to the start position noting happens. Some of the indicators go dark.
I even tried a jump thinking my batteries no longer handle the load. Same results. I suppose I can remove the batteries and take them in for testing. In fact, I'll probably do that now.
2002 F-350 Superduty, 7.3 Ltr, Turbocharged. 260000+ miles.
I have a 99 F-250 SD 4X4 7.3 with about 160,000 miles and still running strong. I haven't been able to troubleshoot a strange clicking noise during the Glow plug / pre start warm-up process. It seems like the noise is coming from a vacuum "relay/ actuator" ( I think that's what the part is) under the hood on the passenger's side. But again I am not a Ford mechanic, nor have I owned this complex of a truck before.
There seem to be two different vacuum terminals that both have two outlets that attach to vacuum hosing. The unit does not have a line ( or 2 ) connected to the innermost vacuum outlet. Does this need to be connected? If I put my fingers on the units outlets to restrict the noise becomes more high-pitched, then will cease to make the clicking sound sooner than if I didn't cover the outlets.
I'm unsure on the process on how to insert a photo. it's asking for a URL, does this mean I need a flickr photo account to transfer the photo? Can I just upload a JPG?
The last couple of weeks a new clunk has appeared on my F350, 6.2 CC LB FX4. If I've been parked for a while, when I drive off, within the first 30 yards or so there's a clunk. Seems worse when I've turned sharply out of a parking spot. Sounds like the rear diff or drivetrain... I have a locking rear diff. Is this engaged or disengaged while "at rest"? Could it be that its slow to unlock when I start?
View 13 RepliesI just picked up my first truck ever yesterday, a 2012 F250 crew 4x4 with the 6.2L gas engine. It seems to me, when the engine is cold, that it raps or knocks for a second or two immediately after startup...is this characteristic? The truck is a 'new-leftover' model with about 28 miles on it so far. When warm, or even semi-warm, the engine starts right up and sounds like a healthy american V8.
View 14 Replies A little background. I bought the 2008 F250 XL, 5.4L with 145,000 miles in December. It had a bad engine (dropped valve). I had the engine replaced with a remanufactured one (Performance Products) and started driving it this month. To date, I have put about 700 miles on it with an oil/filter change at 500.
So, here is the newest problem. Yesterday I finished changing my body mount bushings (with Daystar polyurethane ones) and went for a test drive. When I started the engine, a smoke cloud caught my eye. I took a closer look and noticed it was a gray smoke. I jumped out and ran around to smell the smoke - it had a gas smell. I did not test for smoke after my test drive.
So here is my question. It is obviously burning excess fuel on startup. That would mean that one or more injectors are leaking down after shutdown, correct? Testing this would be done by performing a leakdown test? How do I go about doing this WITHOUT any special equipment?
Started my truck this morning. 2000 F350, V10, 153000 on the clock. Immediately sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood, now it sounds like it's running a cutoff exhaust. Had a tiny manifold tick prior to this, but can it backfire hard enough to crack/destroy the manifold?
View 5 RepliesLong story short: I bought my 2003 F-250 super duty 6.0 used back in January. It had one Ford OEM battery and one Walmart special. I had them tested and they were both completely flat. Replaced the set of batteries the next day. Since then, upon cranking the truck, the battery indicator will be illuminated while the truck is running. It will stay on for a length of time that varies based on the day. It will eventually turn off after driving a while, but will come back on if I kill the truck and crank it again (like when running to a store).
The batteries have been tested 4 times and test just fine. No problems with the batteries. The OBD 2 computer/monitor I have installed reads a voltage of around 13 when the truck is running. What to do to solve this problem. It isn't a major issue as the truck always cranks fine and the batteries are not damaged or anything, it is more of a annoying thing. It bugs the crap out of me.