Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 4x4 - Front Hub Missing The Manual Lock
Apr 28, 2014
Just bought a nice little project 1999 4X4. 100k miles and overall decent condition.
One of the first things to tackle is the driver's front hub has no manual 4x4 locking mechanism like on the passenger side. Is this a tough job?
Attached is the picture of the hub & missing lock setup. (Can't upload...).
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I just purchased an F-350 with manual locking hubs. I am unsure if I can keep these locked in for part time four wheel driving or I need to unlock them each time I go back to two wheel drive?
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I just had the bed and tailgate on my 2004 replaced with a 2015. The body shop took my old lock cylinder out to put in the new tailgate. The old tailgate is only a year old and I wanted to sell it. The issue is that the latch will not open the tailgate. I can manually unlatch it by pulling the rods. Does the lock cylinder not being installed somehow affect this and need to be installed for it to function properly or do the rods simply need to be adjusted?
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I've noticed my front axles are rotating all the time even when the hubs are in auto and supposed to be unlocked when in 2wd. Is there a rebuild kit for these so they will unlock the axles or do I need to buy new locking hubs?
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Well, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
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I have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
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This is the first winter I'm driving my truck. I put it in in 4x4 HIGH the other night due to the snow (and I wanted to check out everything).
Seemed to work fine until I was backing into a parking spot doing a full lock turn. It didn't seem to move. I gave it a little more throttle and it "released" like it was stuck or going over an obstacle. Happened again when I did a full turn backing into my driveway (this time turning the opposite way).
It seems to work fine going forward with tight turns. Also and it doesn't "bind" in 4x2 mode. I haven't tried 4x4 LOW yet ... I guess I don't want to wreck anything if it's not operating properly. Is this normal?
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty with the V10 engine. I purchased it when it was @111k miles. When I got it the passenger side lock did not always work and after time they both stopped. I have ready the post on how to repair them for little or no money that is not my question. My question Is there a way that I can tell if the truck had a remote for the locks when it was new and if not could I put it in the truck? Yes my wife likes that I unlock her door first but a remote would be nice when it is raining.
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Have a 2000 F-250 V-10 4x4 with 335,000 miles on the clock. Has started hesitating at 40-45. You can't really notice it at idle. Drove it around at lower speeds and just a miss here and there. Take it up to 40-45 and it's quite bad. Hasn't thrown any codes. Hooked it up to the scanner to get no additional info. My gut says coil packs but am kinda confused that I haven't gotten a misfire code yet. What to check?
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2004 F250 SuperDuty 4x4 CC, V10, 6 speed manual tran
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I have a 2000 F350, Turbo diesel with 223 000 miles. 6 speed manual transmission will not shift into reverse or low.
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I'm replacing the passenger side manual hub on my '04 F250. I did a brake job last year and I'm sure I cleaned/inspected/lubed the hubs. I can't seem to get this one out. I have the snap ring out and with a rubber mallet, I can get it wiggle just a little. I've loaded up around where the snap ring went with penetrating oil.
Am I missing something? It's just a snap ring and the hub should just pull out, right?
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I just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
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I am changing my 99 f250 4x4 from auto to manual tranny. I am just looking for pics of where the hydro line runs. I don't want line rubbing something and ruining line. Like does line run under the cab wiring harness? Like between wiring and firewall? Where on firewall does reservior get mounted usually? Are the holes all ready there for it that I am not seeing?
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I went to replace my driver's hub bearing last night. Found pieces missing from the locking hub (manual). I ordered them last night it's the snap ring and washers but will not be here till next Monday. Can I run the new bearing with out hurting it. It has already ruined the seals on that side I just don't have the time to take it all the way down. So if I install the bearing and don't put all the guts in the locking hub (I know the locking hub won't work) Dont need 4x4 right now but need to be able to drive it some. Just don't want to mess up the 250 dollar bearing I just got.
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