Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 4wd Propeller Shaft Causing Vibrations?
Oct 22, 2013
I have a 1999 f350, long bed, crew cab, 4wd, dually, v10, 107k miles
I'm certain my propellor shaft u-joints are shot, theres tons of play and I see rust everywhere.
I have been dealing with a vibration problem for a while now, See [URL] .....
I currently am using a pro comp shim kit and the vibration has greatly improved, however shimming different heights did not cure the problem. I'm currently shimmerd 7/8"
First question is when in drive, with hubs on AUTO can my propellor shaft spin fast enough at 70-75 mph to cause a vibration?
Second, can I drive without my front propellor shaft, with out causing harm? For a brief update to above mentioned post, I've had replaced the following:
Six new tires twice! Currently 235/85/16 general grabber load E
Rear pads and rotors
Mechanic opened pumpkin to examine rear pinion bearing (said was fine, no play)
All shock absorbers
Front calipers
Alignment
Continually adjusting carrier bearing height
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I have a 2013 f350 4x4 diesel. I bought used with 80,000km on it. Started getting a bad vibration in the steering wheel around 80km/h. went too ford and replaced the track bar ball joint and steering stabilizer. After that the truck drove perfect. The next day I went and put on my new rims and tires (used tires) 20" rims with 35x12.5 r20 amp m/t tires. They used beads too balance tires. I left the tire shop and the wobble was back, I went right back too the tire shop and they took the tires and rims off too inspect more and found that one tire had kind of a flat spot and uneven wear.
So they put it on the back as too take away a little bit of the vibration, idea is too wear down that bad tire till the flat spot is gone, when I'm driving it at highway speeds it wobbles a little bit and those goes away and then comes back every 20 seconds or so, will this go away or do I need too replace that tire, buddy of mine told me too do a little burnout and maybe even out the tire a little bit but amazingly that didn't work...or could something else be wrong? Factory tires were 275/65/r20 That I had on before. Also the worst vibration is at 80km an hour but like i said it comes and goes. Will it get better?
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I started with removing the two bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the crossmember that attaches on each side of the frame, well the clip that basically would hold the "nut part" of the bolt on the top side sheared on both of them due to salt+calcium chloride.
It felt like there was a 6 point head up there so I tried fitting wrenches and sockets up on the other side, I finally got a good hold with an 11/16" wrench but it just kept rounding more and more. Normally I would just torch the heads off but the gas tank is right next to it.
Any tips for getting the carrier bearing bolts out now? I don't care if I destroy it they're easy to replace. Also I'm typing this from my phone so Incase my sig doesn't show this is on my 02 f250 crew short bed 4x4
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On a few occasions I had leakage from the front of my tranny causing smoke. It happened again yesterday and when I checked I was down a quart of fluid. This morning everything was fine, no leaks all day and the tranny works fine, I tow a heavy work trailer. My search here shows that this is a common problem from the front pump seal and that it gets worse in time. Went to a tranny shop and the guys says the torque converter isn't locking up and overheating the tranny and causing the leak. He also said that if it leaked all the time then it would be the front pump seal. Anyhow he says it need to be rebuilt, new converter and all that stuff.
2000 f-250 V-10 121000 miles
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I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l. Recently Ive had an issue when I am driving, usually when the engine is at 3k+ RPMs, where the engine will lose power and the cel with blink. Usually it only takes a few seconds for the blinking to stop and the engine continues as normal. Now, I know that at least one of my exhaust manifolds are leaking.
Could it be that the engine is not receiving enough back pressure and that is causing it to lose power? I had a similar issue last year, basically the same symptoms, and it turned out that I had two cylinders misfiring. I replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. This time there are no codes referring to a cylinder misfire. There is a code for EVAP leak (I think), but I was told it was nothing to worry about.
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Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
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Not sure what caused it to break but my front driveshaft split in half. I had it in 4wd and was doing a K turn to back in my driveway in a snow storm.
I got underneath in the snow (miserable) and wasn't able to come close to getting it off. The bolts holding the shaft onto the t-case will not budge and the tiny 5/16" bolts stripped all my small 1/4" sockets. I'm guessing I need a 3/8" drive 5/16" for front and the rear just spins. Any tricks to getting this off the truck.
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I have a 1999 F-250 super duty 7.3 4x4 and the rear drivers side axle seal is leaking. My question is how do I remove the axle shaft? my last truck a f150 had c clips in the diff that released the axle shaft but I did not see those on this truck. How to remove the axle shaft?
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So the other day I took my locking hubs out and cleaned them really good. When they were out I noticed I could grabs axle shafts inside the hub and wiggle them quiet a bit. Is that normal?
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I have a 2004 F350 with a broken drive shaft.
Got the original shaft off and it has the following part number (2C34-4K145-DNA)
but I've since learned that the part number has changed but the only info I could get was 2???. 4R602DQA.
Trying to find the part number so I can find it under 750.00 from the dealer
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I finally got my lift installed the other day from PMF. My question is how do I get my pinion angle corrected on the front drive shaft? I know Trevor sells a Tcase clocking adapter may have to go that route IDK Unlike the rear there's only so much pitch you can put on the front axle until it causes issues with steering. I was thinking of going with an aftermarket front drive shaft designed to handle harsher angles.
I live in the mountains and after installing the lift and pulling a trailer on some of theses steeper gravel roads I can feel a harshness or something coming from under to front of the truck. I'm unable to post pics since I'm back on the road but I can visually see the front drive shaft angle is definitely not in line like it was.
I'm currently running PMF 2.5 alpha with a 1'' spacer and 3 link kit up front and 5'' progressive leafs and traction bars out back. I was able to fix my rear shaft angle using shims on my carrier bearing ( not really a big fan having 1 1/2'' of stacked shims BTW ) ....
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Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
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I have a vibration starting at 60mph. Its slight but there. I crawled under and found a very shiny rectangle of metal. Safe to assume I flung a shaft weight? It drives perfect around town just at freeway speeds.
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I have a ford f250 super duty and it wont start I have checked obvious reasons and I think it might be a crank shaft sensor. Just curious, is there two of them one for right bank and left bank or just one on drivers side?
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My elderly neighbor has asked me to re-attach his drive shaft on his F250.
Said his wife was driving and it broke the u joint or something, and he has gotten it repaired and wondered if I could put it back on. Has been sitting for a bit from what he said.
Just need to know, how I should clean up and or grease? the end with the boot on it. before I put it together. The boot looks to be zap strapped, is that standard?
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Looking for an aftermarket intermediate steering shaft for my 2001 f350 since the original has some play at the slip joint and u joints.
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After installing the lift on my 6.2 F250 I ran into the well known issue where the front drive shaft hits the catalytic converter. The two options I was told that I had was to weld in a slight jog into the exhaust guts to go around the cat or to get a smaller diameter drive shaft... I had the truck down at my local exhaust shop to have a new cat back system installed and I had the exhaust guy throw in his .02 about what to do.
He came up with a super easy/obvious fix. When the left and right exhaust meet up before the collector there is a welded brace that secures both sides together. He cut about .5" out of it and loosened the flanges and shifted the exhaust over. Welded the brace back up... Works perfect.
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I have a 2004 F350 Crew Cab DRW 4WD 6.0L.
The front drive shaft is making a high pitched metallic squeal while the truck is in motion. I thought it might be the universal joints but after lubricating the joints, I can still hear the squeal and it sounds like it is coming from inside the drive shaft. I also hear this squeal when I spin the drive shaft by hand.
I have quite a few questions about these drive shafts:
- What would cause a squeal from within the drive shaft?
- Are there any replaceable parts or do I have to get a new drive shaft?
- How do I identify the correct drive shaft part for my truck? Seems like there are a LOT of different models on the web.
- Are any of the aftermarket drive shafts any good? Any to avoid?
- Is this a DIY job or will I need to take it in to the shop?
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I want to install a new front drive shaft in my 2000 F350. I have the new one, and it has a big nut and it is threaded for length adjustment. My old one has a rubber boot which is missing from the new one. I plan on using red locktite but I do not know the torque specs on the front universal caps. Should I take it to my mechanic? I've never owned a 4x4 before.
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I have a E99 F350 7.3L 4x4 I know some or most of you have already probably replaced this part and or pulled a front axle shaft out. So here is my question...In the pictures provided you can see what I think everyone is calling a "Dust Seal" and as you can see it is bad and making a very terrible noise when i hit a bump...I was wondering what parts I would need to replace this seal? I tried looking it up and just get lost in all of the other things....I have found write-ups for the axle being removed while changing ball joints but none by it self to just replace this seal.
[URL] ....
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I have a 2014 4WD Super Duty. It has a squeak that is coming from the drive shaft area. I had someone listen to it as I drove slowly next to them. It is a repetitive: squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak. Not loud. The frequency increases as speed increases. I could believe it may be a U joint based on the frequency, but seems hard to believe with a new truck. I heard this sound when I first got it, but the sound was so slight that I thought it was just some sound associated with a newer engine. But now it is becoming a bit louder.
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