I have a friend who just burned up his transmission. He needs to get on the road as quickly and cheaply as possible (he uses this truck for work).
We found a local 2wd 4r100 out of a 2000 but it is for a 2wd rig. His pickup is an 2001 F250 7.3. 4x4.
What is involved in setting up the 2wd transmission for the transfer case. We can salvage parts from his old transmission if need be.
I found a wracked 2000 f350 v10 4wd dually with 4.10 and I was wondering if I could convert it to single and swap that to my 05 v10 4wd Excursion upgrades to dana60 for 40's.... Is it possible?
View 4 RepliesTried converting the 10 lug to 8x6.5 and didn't work. so now i found a 2000 F450SD 8x225mm monotube front axle but just got my hands on a '99 F350 4.10 DRW axle 8x170mm....can I bolt the 8x170 hubs (spacers as its a dually front axle) up front? not sure if the bolt pattern on the rotor will work...
I was thinking adapters up front as i can widen the front track abit if i had to, but dont want to go 170mm to 225 adapters out back, as i think its too much weight for those... I will have a front 90 F-superduty 10 lug set up....
My truck lives with a trailer behind it and I always turn overdrive off when under 50 mph and turn it off to slow the truck and trailer down when coming off the interstate. About a month ago when I turned od off to take a exit truck did not decel. Just shifts to 3rd and engine goes to idle even at highway speeds. Truck still tows fine. No trans codes no flashing od light. Trans was rebuilt at 163,000 miles have 183,000 now. I'm stumped to what it could be.
View 7 RepliesBought truck drove it 240 miles on interstate 80 mph no problems---2001 F350 4x4 auto. Next morning backed out drive and trans fluid trail 6 inches wide. Didn't leak in forward gears (at that time) added fluid and drive to town shifted fine.
Next day gonna drive 150 miles to check out leak. (Son was driving it) said it wouldn't go over 40 mph. Revving high. Hauled truck here on trailer and pulled tranny. Rear housing cracked just before 4x4 adapter. (This trans was rebuilt 10k miles ago) ..
Got used 4R100 from friend who replaced only because he built one for his truck. It was shifting fine etc when pulled 6 months ago. Used cracked trans TC and installed. Test drive no 4th or OD. Pulled trans put TC that came with trans in. Still no OD. Put on scanner while driving. Trans is being commanded to shift to OD but not up shifting. 45mph at 2400rpm.
Pulled plug to solenoid pack inside trans ( this should make trans default to OD / limp mode) still no OD and won't go over 45.
Pulled OD button checked wires inside steering column. All looks great. Not even a heavy rub mark.
Should I replace the coil pack in trans? Where do I go from here? Again this trans was known to be good when pulled 6 months ago.
Truck : 2000 F250 XLT A/T 6.8L v10 4x4
Issue : O/D off light is flashing on the shift lever. In a drive gear (R, OD, D2, D1) there is very low power when giving it gas, more so from a stop. In P and N, I can rev the motor with no obvious issues. In O/D, I can't even get forward momentum going from a stop when on a slight incline. When on flat ground and in O/D, flooring the gas only gets me going a few MPH and RPMs don't go above 1500ish. When selecting 1st or 2nd, the truck still struggles a bit from a stop but does get up and going.
What happened leading up to the issue : I was on the freeway driving about 80MPH without cruise control se,t and with O/D on as usual, when the blinking O/D off light caught my attention. Not knowing at the time that this was a transmission problem light, I started pushing and holding on the O/D on/off button to try and get it to stop. Probably about a minute later, I realized I was losing speed even when giving more throttle so pulled over to the shoulder. I shut the truck off and restarted it, noted the Service Engine Soon light was now on, then I put it in O/D and gave it gas but only got going a couple MPH which it sounds like the engine was choking/struggling. I then tried D1 and D2 and, while still struggling a bit from stop, was able to accelerate up to 35+ MPH.
OBDII Codes:
P0743
Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid
Circuit Electrical
P0750
Shift Solenoid A
P0755
Shift Solenoid B
P1747
Pressure Control
Solenoid A Short Circuit
P0443
EvaPorative Emission
System Purge Control
Valve Circuit
P0135
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 1. Sensor 1)
P0155
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 2. Sensor 1)
Troubleshooting : Transmission fluid check looks good (full and red)
Checked fuse 23 of the Central Junction Box
Held a ground wire to bottom of Transmission pan and to the frame while I started the truck, O/D light still flashing
Wiring looks good coming to the plug on the driver side of the transmission
More info:
- No "Service Engine Soon" or blinking O/D off light prior to all this happening.
- I don't believe I'm getting 1st gear. I don't recall if I got my speed up to 30+ MPH while in D1, but while in D2 I never noticed a shift from stop to ~35MPH. At 35MPH, my RPMs were around 2500 I believe.
- While cruising at 35MPH in D2, shifting to O/D results in lost power. I had to stay in D2 all the way home.
To do (I believe):
1. Check shift solenoids (looking for DIY info)
2. Check shift solenoid pack (looking for DIY info)
3. Check TCC solenoid (looking for for DIY info)
It sounds like there are a couple shift solenoids to check as well as a solenoid pack (how best to check these out, I'm still looking for)?
Recently I have had an issue with my auto which was just rebuilt. About 500 kays after i picked it up it shifts dangerously hard and immediately into all gears at around 20-40 mph, converter also locks immediately. The speed sensor in the box was replaced with the rebuild but I'm having it replaced again this thursday just in case.
Just for the record I cooked it on the beach a while back, the speed sensor was replaced with the rebuild as it was doing the above, the od light also flashes when this occurs, before and after the rebuild.
Prior to cooking it never had an issue.
What could be causing it? I'm starting to worry it cant be fixed, have done a google and tried a couple of things mentioned. Code says wiring issue associated with speed sensor in box.
The other day I was driving i was driving down the road when suddenly my truck wouldn't shift out of first gear, then the truck died and the motor wont turn over either. Acts like it is locked up. Its an 01 with v10 and 4r100.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 f250 5.4l w 4r100 and it seams to loose its gear or down shift only when i take a hard right turn. I took it to a trans shop and it shows no codes and at this point I am very confused...
View 9 RepliesI had some more time to mess around with my truck. The 4r100 shifts great until the truck warms up. After about 10 to 15 minutes of driving it starts. With the gear selector in D and under acceleration it will shift at about 2k rpm's and will be in third gear by 25mph. If I climb to higher speeds it will only shift out of O/D when I get my foot into it. It will not downshift into any gears until I am almost completely stopped. It will downshift and hold gears great if I use the column to shift. I'm stumped. No CEL or flashing O/D light.
Things I have checked:
TPS
VSS
All connections to the transmission
Set tune back to stock
Transmission fluid & level
Will the transmission still store codes even if the O/D light has never flashed?
My 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 with a 4r100 tranny. I was towing my boat home and noticed the temperature rising from roughly 140 all the way to 160 over a short distance. As soon as I pulled up to the house I noticed I was dumping my transmission fluid. Went to a mechanic and he fixed the leaking on the transmission by replacing some seals and changed out my rear main seal while the tranny was out.
I also went ahead and replaced the torque converter so I would not have to do it in the future. went to pick up my truck and noticed that on the way home the temperature was still rising. On a normal day here in Texas my tranny temperature was about 125 While towing it would creep up to about 143. Now, just getting home it got up to 180. What could be causing the temp to run this high and keep climbing?
What's an acceptable GVW value when one is looking to replace the air to oil cooler for this transmission?
2001 F250 CC SB PSD 7.3 Edge
My truck has a bit of an interesting trait. Unless it's just about freezing, my transmission is just about always at operating temperature. If it's 50*F outside and I start the truck, the Trans temp is smack dab in the middle. If it's 30*F outside it starts just a little above cold then is "warmed up" when I drive it down my short street block, which ain't right.
All the rest of the time, it's always reading middle of the bar temperature. My old 5.4L never did this. My 7.3L does. Best I can tell is it's a fault in the temperature sensor for the transmission. I don't have a scan gauge yet to get the readings but will be getting one. Just need to know where the sensor is at so I can have a starting point.
I have a 1999 ford f250 5.4 2 wheel drive i believe its a 4r100 transmission. auto. I have reverse but no forward gears. Ive heard this is a common problem , and on my reverse it has to hit 3000 rpm before it even tries to move and D 1 2 i have nothing only thing i hear is the engine sound changes gets deeper. Do i need a whole new transmission or is this fixable.
View 4 RepliesHad my trans rebuilt in August because of a lagging reverse and loss of shift pressure. Had it rebuilt and beefed up a little and I've had problems getting the trans to be like it was new and seven years ago. I had enough of my head gasket oil leak and loosing my job recently so I bought a trans pressure kit and hooked it up today, all I can say is I now have another problem to get corrected. I'll list my pressures and I took videos so I'll upload them to YouTube and link it that way.
Park - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
R - 25psi start then slowly rises to 60psi
oem - 70-100psi
N - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
D - 82psi
oem - 50-65psi
2 - 20psi then slow to 80psi
oem - 50-65psi
1 - 50psi then slow to 100psi
oem - 70-100psi
My WOT pressure at 1-2 and then 2-3 shift is 170psi, I cannot find OEM spec online yet but I believe I was told it should be over 200psi....
We have recently had an intermittent problem where, when I put the truck in drive after backing out of a parking spot, the truck lurches forward and then stalls. Then, when I put it in neutral and fire it back up and put it back in drive, it charges forward, and I'm hardly able to hold it with the brakes. But then, when I put it into park and turn it off and turn it back on, it's fine.
It seems as though the torque converter is locking up when I put it in drive after backing up. The truck went to the dealer for diagnostic of an unrelated issue, and they said that it happened to them as well. They believe the trans is on it's way out, but it didn't throw any codes, although they remarked that they fluid smelled burnt, even thought it was changed about 7k miles ago. It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3 and a 4R100, 185k miles.
Having downshifting problems with REbuilt transmission. Is there a FIPL sensor for the 4r100? I was told to check all engine codes first, but i just have a EBPV sensor code, but removed the valve when I installed the GT38R turbo...
Rebuild:
- Tugger kit
- triple disc Billet torque converter
- New clutches and seals,.
- Banks Trans command module
... I also have a 6-pos tuner.. I had a Super chips tuner too and it has ALWAYS had the downshifting on acceleration on up-hill grades!!
I have an 01 f250 with a 4r100. Trans has not been slipping at all and yesterday it started a rough shift between 1st and 2nd. (3-4K Rpms) At the same time 4th gear stopped engaging. Shifts out of 3rd but does not go into 4th. I can hit my od button and it will shift back into 3rd and start pulling. Still no slipping just doesn't want to change 1-2 or engage 4th. I have done a full trans fluid change including new filter and tc. Old fluid looked fine with no metal flakes or garbage in it. So all new fluid still same problem. I was thinking of changing my shift solenoid.
View 9 RepliesTroubleshooting on my wonderful transmission. I have a 2000 F-250 CC Lariat with the V-10. When I start the truck, I hear a high pitch noise. It's like a high pitch whine. It changes frequency as you rev the engine in park. Put the transmission into gear. Either forward or reverse, and the noise is lower pitch. As you accelerate, the noise will change frequency. If the tranny is manually shifted, the noise will go away, and then come back a short time later. The noise is audible while driving especially in third and OD. The truck has 93,000 and is dead reliable except for this. I have been under the truck, and I can tell it's coming from the tranny. Not sure if it's the converter or what.
View 10 RepliesWhile pullin in my 7.3 with a 4r100 from a passing hail storm, i shut her down and crawled under it just to check things out. While under there I heard a noise that sounded like something was shorting out figured out the location of the noise, but what the electrical connector is for?
passenger side next to exhaust
After further analysis the noise only happens after truck has been placed in drive gear and then to park gear and finally shut down/turn engine off... Makes noise for around 30 seconds and is not a constant short noise like something is jumping around....
More pics about the problem that is hard to get too and explain where it is...
Just behind the tranny line....
I have a 99 F250 7.3PSD; I upgraded the tranny cooler after an episode of overheating while backing up a hill.
The truck has done well, hauled a few tractors with it, but recently I have noticed something that seems scary. When going downhill, I often relax on the accelerator. Usually there is some passive engine braking as happens with any auto tranny. Recently, the truck just coasts - it is as if you feel the tranny shift into neutral and you just coast, except I didn't shift. While this is happening, the accelerator pedal will not rev the engine. You can put the pedal all the way down -> rpms at about 6-800. No response.
At the bottom of the hill (so far) the engine gets louder. the rpms drop, and the accelerator works again. Every time, so far. But, if IO am going down hill, and want to accelerate to execute a laneg change or something - I can't. AFAIK, everything A-OK after the new tranny cooler. levels, etc.