Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 4R100 - Constant Short Noise After Passing Hail Storm
May 8, 2013
While pullin in my 7.3 with a 4r100 from a passing hail storm, i shut her down and crawled under it just to check things out. While under there I heard a noise that sounded like something was shorting out figured out the location of the noise, but what the electrical connector is for?
passenger side next to exhaust
After further analysis the noise only happens after truck has been placed in drive gear and then to park gear and finally shut down/turn engine off... Makes noise for around 30 seconds and is not a constant short noise like something is jumping around....
More pics about the problem that is hard to get too and explain where it is...
Just behind the tranny line....
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So, back in July I had some issues with my V10 F250 not cranking after a bad rain storm. (New battery was installed May 2011) and ended up recharging the battery & replacing the alternator. Have not had any problems since until yesterday as I was going to use the pickup. I drove it on Thursday with no problem and Friday Tropical Storm Lee came in with TONS of rain. Now NOTHING AGAIN. I also noticed a drop of water coming from overhead console (trip computer module that has not worked since I've had it).
So I pulled the overhead console out and water was beaded around the center overhead clearance light opening. I dried that one with a paper towel and looked under the headliner and others were slowly leaking. After looking the center one already had a drop beaded again. Would this cause a short that would drain the battery? Also having the battery drained so bad twice in 2-3 months is this going to degrade the capacity of my 5 month old battery?
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My 9 month old Prius was caught in 3" - 4" hail today. My windshield is smashed and all the horizontal surfaces look like popped bubble wrap including the tops of the doors. Perhaps I'll get 90 mpg from now on.
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While driving into town during a recent snowstorm, my truck started to misfire quite badly. The check engine light started to flash and then remained on as I went to the auto parts store. The code indicated cylinder two misfire. I don't a few things of dry gas in the tank and let it run for a few minutes which seem to solve the problem.
Since then, however,every time the engine gets even a little bit wet it starts to bark again. It usually lasts a few minutes then goes back to normal. Typically, I would have replace the plug wires. When I lifted the hood of my truck I realize I knew nothing about it.
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I have a 2001 F350 with a7.3 power stroke, 6 speed manual with manual t case and hubs. I have a bad grinding noise when in 2 wheel drive. Similar sound as if you are trying to shift t case into 4 wheel drive too slowly. The grinding is constant in 2 wheel drive, but if I shift it into 4 wheel drive, the noise completely goes away. I have been driving around in 4 wheel drive (T case only, manual hubs not locked) for the past 2 days. If I shift back into 2 wheel drive, a constant terrible grinding noise returns. What could be wrong, and why it goes away in 4 wheel drive?????
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So when I try to kick into 'passing gear' in this '01 f250 5.4l, i get no tranny shift. Whether I'm in tow/haul mode or not.
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6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
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When I "step on it" on the freeway or even a moderately inclined freeway ramp, it bogs down and actually takes a few moments to cover. Sometimes will leave me crawling at about 20mph for a few minutes. Engine revs just fine in neutral. If I very slowly build up speed I can cruise at 75mph, but forget passing. Also, this came along at the same time a severe shaking/shuddering spell started. Not always, but often it is shaking the entire body and certainly through the steering wheel. Was so bad the first time I stopped to see if I had a flat. Usually lasts until I slow way down and ease my speed back up. Had the front end steering structure replaced about two years ago, so I don't think it is that. What is the cause of the bog down and could the shaking be related? This truck sits for 2-3 weeks at a time and then I drive for about 50 miles and park it again. Can Michigan gasoline go bad that quickly?
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When passing or going up small inclines on freeway, my F250 seems to make the shift to the passing gear but then almost a complete loss of power. Jerks around for a few seconds and finally provides enough power to at least get back to the original speed. (It feels kind of like the lurching, etc. I used to get when those stinking GM diesel injectors would act up in the 1990's.)
It also stays in first/second as I punch it while entering the freeway and doesn't want to make the shift. I can put it in neutral and race the engine, so I don't think it is an engine problem, unless the transmission is electronically controlled. I have a lot of computer dashboard gauge resets after falling to zero and sometimes have to set and release the parking brake to get the auto door locks and windows to work. (That started after a car break in where the door electronics were apparently pinched, but that was a couple of years ago.)
Does it sound like the transmission or electronics? In the old days replacing an automatic transmission filter seemed to fix a lot of transmission issues. Not an option now, but would I expect to see any results doing a transmission flush and fluid change? It's probably been about 60000 since I had that done. (157000 now).
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My truck lives with a trailer behind it and I always turn overdrive off when under 50 mph and turn it off to slow the truck and trailer down when coming off the interstate. About a month ago when I turned od off to take a exit truck did not decel. Just shifts to 3rd and engine goes to idle even at highway speeds. Truck still tows fine. No trans codes no flashing od light. Trans was rebuilt at 163,000 miles have 183,000 now. I'm stumped to what it could be.
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I have a friend who just burned up his transmission. He needs to get on the road as quickly and cheaply as possible (he uses this truck for work).
We found a local 2wd 4r100 out of a 2000 but it is for a 2wd rig. His pickup is an 2001 F250 7.3. 4x4.
What is involved in setting up the 2wd transmission for the transfer case. We can salvage parts from his old transmission if need be.
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Bought truck drove it 240 miles on interstate 80 mph no problems---2001 F350 4x4 auto. Next morning backed out drive and trans fluid trail 6 inches wide. Didn't leak in forward gears (at that time) added fluid and drive to town shifted fine.
Next day gonna drive 150 miles to check out leak. (Son was driving it) said it wouldn't go over 40 mph. Revving high. Hauled truck here on trailer and pulled tranny. Rear housing cracked just before 4x4 adapter. (This trans was rebuilt 10k miles ago) ..
Got used 4R100 from friend who replaced only because he built one for his truck. It was shifting fine etc when pulled 6 months ago. Used cracked trans TC and installed. Test drive no 4th or OD. Pulled trans put TC that came with trans in. Still no OD. Put on scanner while driving. Trans is being commanded to shift to OD but not up shifting. 45mph at 2400rpm.
Pulled plug to solenoid pack inside trans ( this should make trans default to OD / limp mode) still no OD and won't go over 45.
Pulled OD button checked wires inside steering column. All looks great. Not even a heavy rub mark.
Should I replace the coil pack in trans? Where do I go from here? Again this trans was known to be good when pulled 6 months ago.
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Truck : 2000 F250 XLT A/T 6.8L v10 4x4
Issue : O/D off light is flashing on the shift lever. In a drive gear (R, OD, D2, D1) there is very low power when giving it gas, more so from a stop. In P and N, I can rev the motor with no obvious issues. In O/D, I can't even get forward momentum going from a stop when on a slight incline. When on flat ground and in O/D, flooring the gas only gets me going a few MPH and RPMs don't go above 1500ish. When selecting 1st or 2nd, the truck still struggles a bit from a stop but does get up and going.
What happened leading up to the issue : I was on the freeway driving about 80MPH without cruise control se,t and with O/D on as usual, when the blinking O/D off light caught my attention. Not knowing at the time that this was a transmission problem light, I started pushing and holding on the O/D on/off button to try and get it to stop. Probably about a minute later, I realized I was losing speed even when giving more throttle so pulled over to the shoulder. I shut the truck off and restarted it, noted the Service Engine Soon light was now on, then I put it in O/D and gave it gas but only got going a couple MPH which it sounds like the engine was choking/struggling. I then tried D1 and D2 and, while still struggling a bit from stop, was able to accelerate up to 35+ MPH.
OBDII Codes:
P0743
Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid
Circuit Electrical
P0750
Shift Solenoid A
P0755
Shift Solenoid B
P1747
Pressure Control
Solenoid A Short Circuit
P0443
EvaPorative Emission
System Purge Control
Valve Circuit
P0135
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 1. Sensor 1)
P0155
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 2. Sensor 1)
Troubleshooting : Transmission fluid check looks good (full and red)
Checked fuse 23 of the Central Junction Box
Held a ground wire to bottom of Transmission pan and to the frame while I started the truck, O/D light still flashing
Wiring looks good coming to the plug on the driver side of the transmission
More info:
- No "Service Engine Soon" or blinking O/D off light prior to all this happening.
- I don't believe I'm getting 1st gear. I don't recall if I got my speed up to 30+ MPH while in D1, but while in D2 I never noticed a shift from stop to ~35MPH. At 35MPH, my RPMs were around 2500 I believe.
- While cruising at 35MPH in D2, shifting to O/D results in lost power. I had to stay in D2 all the way home.
To do (I believe):
1. Check shift solenoids (looking for DIY info)
2. Check shift solenoid pack (looking for DIY info)
3. Check TCC solenoid (looking for for DIY info)
It sounds like there are a couple shift solenoids to check as well as a solenoid pack (how best to check these out, I'm still looking for)?
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Recently I have had an issue with my auto which was just rebuilt. About 500 kays after i picked it up it shifts dangerously hard and immediately into all gears at around 20-40 mph, converter also locks immediately. The speed sensor in the box was replaced with the rebuild but I'm having it replaced again this thursday just in case.
Just for the record I cooked it on the beach a while back, the speed sensor was replaced with the rebuild as it was doing the above, the od light also flashes when this occurs, before and after the rebuild.
Prior to cooking it never had an issue.
What could be causing it? I'm starting to worry it cant be fixed, have done a google and tried a couple of things mentioned. Code says wiring issue associated with speed sensor in box.
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The other day I was driving i was driving down the road when suddenly my truck wouldn't shift out of first gear, then the truck died and the motor wont turn over either. Acts like it is locked up. Its an 01 with v10 and 4r100.
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I have a 2004 f250 5.4l w 4r100 and it seams to loose its gear or down shift only when i take a hard right turn. I took it to a trans shop and it shows no codes and at this point I am very confused...
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I had some more time to mess around with my truck. The 4r100 shifts great until the truck warms up. After about 10 to 15 minutes of driving it starts. With the gear selector in D and under acceleration it will shift at about 2k rpm's and will be in third gear by 25mph. If I climb to higher speeds it will only shift out of O/D when I get my foot into it. It will not downshift into any gears until I am almost completely stopped. It will downshift and hold gears great if I use the column to shift. I'm stumped. No CEL or flashing O/D light.
Things I have checked:
TPS
VSS
All connections to the transmission
Set tune back to stock
Transmission fluid & level
Will the transmission still store codes even if the O/D light has never flashed?
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My 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 with a 4r100 tranny. I was towing my boat home and noticed the temperature rising from roughly 140 all the way to 160 over a short distance. As soon as I pulled up to the house I noticed I was dumping my transmission fluid. Went to a mechanic and he fixed the leaking on the transmission by replacing some seals and changed out my rear main seal while the tranny was out.
I also went ahead and replaced the torque converter so I would not have to do it in the future. went to pick up my truck and noticed that on the way home the temperature was still rising. On a normal day here in Texas my tranny temperature was about 125 While towing it would creep up to about 143. Now, just getting home it got up to 180. What could be causing the temp to run this high and keep climbing?
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What's an acceptable GVW value when one is looking to replace the air to oil cooler for this transmission?
2001 F250 CC SB PSD 7.3 Edge
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My truck has a bit of an interesting trait. Unless it's just about freezing, my transmission is just about always at operating temperature. If it's 50*F outside and I start the truck, the Trans temp is smack dab in the middle. If it's 30*F outside it starts just a little above cold then is "warmed up" when I drive it down my short street block, which ain't right.
All the rest of the time, it's always reading middle of the bar temperature. My old 5.4L never did this. My 7.3L does. Best I can tell is it's a fault in the temperature sensor for the transmission. I don't have a scan gauge yet to get the readings but will be getting one. Just need to know where the sensor is at so I can have a starting point.
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I have a 1999 ford f250 5.4 2 wheel drive i believe its a 4r100 transmission. auto. I have reverse but no forward gears. Ive heard this is a common problem , and on my reverse it has to hit 3000 rpm before it even tries to move and D 1 2 i have nothing only thing i hear is the engine sound changes gets deeper. Do i need a whole new transmission or is this fixable.
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