Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 24v Starter Keeps Burning
May 31, 2017
I got this for R180000 SA RAND the turbo blow so they replaced it the start it 24v starter keeps burning so another try and he replaced the emi i try to start after i got fuel pump running but no luck how can i test to see if injectors getting power to open i got not special tools as in SA is up to ........ No smoke motor just crank ....
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Friend brought me his 2001 F250 SD 7.3 to see if I can figure out what is wrong with it. He has had it to several shops to no avail. It started with lights coming on and off periodically and ended with starters burning up on a regular basis. 3 or 4 by now. It will roll over on it's own and do all kinds of crazy stuff. Shops have pretty much stuck with swapping starters and solenoids but I don't think that is it. I have pulled the main fuse block under the hood and it is clean, next the one under the dash.
I can't see moisture in the GEM but there was moisture on the outside of the box. The GEM looks OK but that doesn't really mean anything. I put a Ford scanner on it (AutoEnguity type) and it scanned and brought uo several GEM failures but not sure if that is from hooking and unhooking stuff. I have had to keep bat cables unhooked as I am afraid it will burn up when no one around. When I scanned I had to hook up batteries and when I turned on the ignition it went crazy with flashing lights and relays clicking from behind the dash. I cleared the codes and it stopped. GEM? Can GEM's be tested? I know they can be re programmed so why not tested?
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I have a 2000 F250 SD 4x4. I noticed the other day that after driving the truck for 10 miles or more and then stopping and getting back in it feels like the parking brake is on. I drove the truck home and on my way back I smelled brakes burning but it wasn't pulling while driving or braking. When I got home I put my head in the wheel well to get a look at the brakes on the drivers side it seemed ok, but when I did it on the passenger side it was hot as Hades! It's been my experience that if the caliper is hanging up it will pull either while braking or regular driving. I just want a better idea before I go ahead and buy a new caliper and hose and tear the dang thing apart.
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I just got a 2001 F250 with a Rebuilt V8 5.4 with 310,000 miles about two months ago I changed the oil about three weeks ago. I put full synthetic 5-20w and I went to check the level today and it was way low. I see no leaks and I don't see it mixing with the radiator fluid. Is this normal might it just be burning oil ? I do drive the truck at least 100 miles a day.
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I just got this truck and didn't have any strange odors other than brake caliper which got replaced immediately. I got 4 new Mastercraft AXT tires last week and two days before that I got a muffler installed. I put a flowmaster on it (black) Now if I drive it about three four miles, I get a smell coming from somewhere which I can't locate because nothing is hot and it goes away within a few minutes so I cant pin point it. At first i thought it smelled like rubber heating up, but now not sure. I may take it back to tire dealer and have him check all the tires for balance. I had them do an alignment, so I would hope it isn't that. The smell came with the new tires I think....I had the exhaust worked on two days prior to that and didn't notice anything after that. I haven't checked anything else, but there isn't anything hot when I jump out and start sniffing around. Would tires do that if NEW or out of balance?
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For the first time while towing a bumper pull trailer, started getting a very strong burning smell, only while going up decent size hills. After the climb, smell goes away. Kind of smells like burning rubber or wiring, but that should be constant and not just while up hill.
Checked tranny fluid and it didn't look burnt or low and never saw visible smoke. Have seen this discussed before but with no definitive conclusions. Truck has 150K on it and has long ago lost most of its towing power and the hills also drop the speed to around 45mph from 70 when I hit the big ones.
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We have an 1999 f-450 super duty with a cube van box that we use for pickup. About a month ago the radio and lights started to stay on, various other electronics did the same.
we found mostly it points to the gem module...was unable to obtain a new one so we found a use one. For the time being we started disconnecting the battery ( would kill both overnight ) and magically....everything was working again so we didn't bother installed the used GEM.
Now....its given Chirstine a run for her money and auditioning for a maximum overdrive reboot The starter started to turn. Took the keys outa the ignition but a few moments later it started again. Got to the point the starter wouldn't stop and we were running around the shop looking for tools to disconnect the batteries.
Its not starting the engine so the ignition should be ok, its just powering the starter motor. checked the relay and it seems to be working fine. We tried to install the GEM we bought however, it seems its not the right part and its too late to return it now so, we are trying to find a new one ( not used ) from somewhere. so the gem is bad as the radio, blower motor etc comes on and off at will but here's the kicker.... with the GEM removed...the starter is still powering itself....
Thought maybe the fuse box got moisture or something, put a heater on it to dry it out. Pulled the starter fuse, turned off...pulled radio fuse samething
so i think the fuse box is ok.
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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I had a bad starter solenoid on the fender in my truck I swapped it out and then my starter went so I swapped it now it is not disengaging the starter If I turn the key to the run position it starts cranking and fires right up before I an let the glow plugs cycle or anything and it won't disengage the starter I turn off the truck and the starter is spinning loud for a couple seconds till it stops no matter if it just start the truck or start it and run it for a couple minutes then shut it off. 99 7.3L ....
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Just purchased a 2014 f350 dsl with 83,000 miles. Had a wheel balance issue when I got it, since fixed. Hooked my 5th wheel up and noticed a chatter/vibration in 1st gear (automatic trans). Took it to the dealer, they reset the computer and I'm to drive it 100 mile and see if it goes away. They dropped the pan and there was a little debris, but the fluid wasn't burnt. What's going on?
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When starting up my 2011 F-250 Gas, I have a burning smell coming from my vents for about a minute then it goes away. It smells like new electronics. My A/C seems extra cold as well. We just got back from a 3800 mile vacation. Its been going on now for about 3 weeks and never changes...
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So just about every trip that's over 20 minutes I'll get a smell, seems like it's coming thru the vents and it smells like burning wires or like you turned on your heat in your house for the first time of the year.... Is this normal??
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I recently purchased this remote starter and I installed it and had a local dealer program/cut the key.
I have an XLT without the message center. Do I have the manual temperature setting for when the remote starter is used? It has not worked either way as far as i can tell but it has also been very mild temps in illinois at 55-65 in the morning.
If I do have it, is it a setting i must engage somehow? I looked in the manual but could not seem to find anything.
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Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
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My second Super Duty, a 1999 7.3 at random leaves the starter engaged after starting! Turn key off, starter disengages. Solenoid or ignition switch or? Batteries are good, and crank times are quick, but a while ago before replacing starter there were some periods of long cranking.
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2015 F350 6.2, 4 door 8' bed FX4...... 17,200 miles.
This morning when outside to start it (nice sunny morning) and turned the key and all the dash lights went on and also went crazy. Said it had all kind of problems on the dash, Trac system, Over heating and so on. The starter did not crank over at all. Tried this about 8 times in 45 minutes, no worky. Call Ford, they towed it to the dealer. I last drove it 2 days ago. All stock, no programmer.
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I have a 2004 to 250 super duty 5.4 and automatic trans it has about 233,000 miles on it. Yesterday when I started my truck I could see my reverse lights were stuck on against the garage door in the dark. After I put the truck in drive the lights went out later on I shift at the truck and to park and the starter engaged I put the truck in neutral and it stopped the starter from running after doing that several times the truck now does it even when it's in reverse or neutral. I have to leave it in drive and push the emergency brake on I am in and out of the truck all day long. I did change the shift to blast may I check the screws on the back of the shift to bury thing seems fine.
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2001 F250 SD 4x4,V10, auto, 156K miles
Truck was idling getting ready for work. Went into the Garage to grab my coat. on the way out heard a TERRIBLE noise, and the headlights dimmed down a bit.
I heard the noise a 2nd time, it was the starter trying to reengage! I promptly shut it off and waited a few minutes, but the same thing happened!
I pulled the control wire off of the solenoid, and (still running in Park) everything seemed "OK". To see if the solenoid was bad/stuck, or if there was still voltage on the control side, I touched the connection,and with the engine still running, the solenoid re engaged!
"Something" is telling the starter to 'start'! When I shut the thing down, and pull the key, it seems normal EXCEPT I can faintly see the Battery, and ABS lights illuminated in the dash cluster. I pulled the negative Battery cable off, and that is how it sits right now. Very strange to me. The truck ran great on a 5 hour trip just this past weekend.
Looking for a legit wiring Diagram for this year of truck?
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I have an 04 f250 with a 5.4 I smelled something like burning and the truck shut down. the fuse panel was warm. after a min or so it starts back up never know how far till it stalls again.
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The wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
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