Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2104 F350 - Steering Sticking / Locking When Turn It To The Left
Feb 13, 2016
I have 2014 F350, was previous flood damaged, the steering keep sticking when I turn it to the left, not always in the same spot, but sometimes it just locks and will not turn right, needs lots of jiggling and then it release, as I say in different places but always when turning to the left, never when turning to the right. Does this indicate steering gear fault or something else?
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I have a 2009 f250 4x4 . When i make a turn and sometimes while driving the steering locks up. Sometimes i have to jerk it back. Sometimes it feels like i have no power steering . And some times its seems the gear box is stripped. I had it to a mechanic look at it and all the steering and suspension parts are good. The u joints are also good. There has to be a HUGE problem with this issue, due to know one having a steering box, even the dealer. I have a truck that I can't drive...
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I just picked up a 2005 SC LB 4x4 5.4 v8 6mt F-350 yesterday and drove it about 250 miles home. It is my first Super Duty, and I love it so far but... the steering has some issues. There seems to be decent amount of play in the steering wheel when I'm driving straight. Also, the truck drives straight when the steering wheel is turned about 30 degrees to the left, and I would like to fix that and bring it to center. When I was cruising on the highway (65-70 mph), there was also two 20 minute periods of time spaced an hour apart where the steering would get light and the truck would dart to the left (i do not think road conditions were a factor as it did not happen on the worst stretches of highway. The truck has 133,000 miles on it, and has had pretty routines maintenance done on it, as it was owned by a drilling business as a work truck to haul tools. The guy I bought it from said that it needed the steering shock/damper replaced, so I will do that, but what else to you think I need to do to the truck?
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My steering pulls hard left or hard right, and also seems to have a mind of its own when it turns sharp right or left suddenly, as though someone else is driving. It's very disconcerting when you think you're making a left and the truck veers right.
Today I was making a left onto a bridge and truck kept going straight. I almost hit the bridge. I have an 06 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel. What this could be?
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2012 350, crew, 4x4, 6.7, LB. Ignition does not always engage when you turn the key (we've changed the tumbler and the batteries) after sometime the truck will start. the dome lights do not work in auto anymore and every so often the steering will "grab" to the left, when I compensate it will switch to the right. I can drive from 20 - 300 miles sometimes before it does this and then it may or may not come out of it right within 5 - 20 minutes.
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Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
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I have a piece of a warn locking hub that is stuck in the wheel hub. It is stuck in a Ford F-350 super duty SRW 6.8 V10 with a Dana 50 8 lug front axle. Everything seems stock, but we bought this beast late in its life. I have removed the locking hub cap, the inner locking gear, and the metal retaining ring that holds the outer gear in place. The other side just falls apart as it should at this point.
I have tried building a custom puller utilizing the 6 hex cap screws (that attach the locking hub cap) to pull in on two 1/8" thick c channels held off with a 1/2" bolt pushing in the middle of the c channels on the axle. In one case, I sheared off the bolt, and bent the c channels. I tried it again and that time broke several of the hex cap screws off.
I have ran through penetrating oil, wd-40, propane (for a torch) and carb and brake cleaner as I tried heating up the hub while applying penetrating oil and letting things sit, then spraying out rust and such with carb or brake cleaner to loosen things up, then repeating the process over and over again. I have done this process several times. It worked on the center where the axle goes through the inner gear, so now the inner gear is now loose from the axle. But the outside is still suck like no other.
Lightly hitting on it with a 3lb sledge to crack something lose has done nothing, and left me struggling not to beat it much harder with a bigger hammer with a longer handle.
As a note, it took weeks to get the center locking gear to fall out after doing the oil, heat, and spray cleaner process, then driving with it locked in, and it took two attempts and hours to get the cap off from stuck hex cap screws, several which I had to drill out in the end after even an impact screw driver would not work. The U-Joint is bad, and I can't lock in the 4WD which is problematic at the dump and on job sites when it is muddy especially when we are towing a maxed out 5k single axle trailer that wants to dig in to the mud too.
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On my 05 350, I noticed the other day that my 4wd wasn't working, when I needed it of course. I quick test this morning and I discovered my PS hub is not locking in. I've read a lot of posts about it being the opposite, the auto portion causing a problem. In my case, it won't lock in in auto or manually turning. I can lock it in, spin the wheel and the axle shaft isn't turning. The pressure is the same as the other side, not too loose or too stiff. Can I pull the hub assembly off and rebuild it? I watched a video about that, but not sure on how my issue would allow me to work on it.
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I drove my pickup on mostly dry pavement the other day with it in 4WD and the hubs locked. I got a bit of shimmy/vibration which quit after about a mile. When I got back on ice, the 4WD wasn't working. I assumed the transfer case or locking hubs had failed. Today I got it up on jack stands, put it in 4WD, and locked the hubs. Everything seems fine. What might have happened when I couldn't get 4WD to function.
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In my attempt to remove the auto locking hub on my 2000 F-350 4x4, I found that it would not slide out. I removed the retaing clip and the hub should of be able to come out with a couple wiggles, it seems to have seized inside the hub. I tapped it with a rubber mallet on all sides. Any thoughts as to other alternative methods of removing the hub locker ?
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So I have an 05 f350 5.4 with the shift on the fly and the auto/manual locking hubs.. I already know I have a leak with the vacuum and I just use the hubs manually, then shift on the fly to activate the transfer case.
I went to use the 4wd the other night in a snow storm and I have no 4wd, light on the dash comes on and i can hear the transfer case clicking in when i hit the switch between 2wd and 4wd.
So I got under the truck while it was on the ground and manually locked the passenger side, Then tried spinning the axle and it wont spin freely, so obviously its locked.
Tried the same thing on the driver side and the axle spins freely while the hub is locked, So obviously the locking part of the hub is no good... So i guess my question is, even with just 1 wheel locking in the front, shouldn't I pretty much get 3wd? or am i missing something...will it not engage at all because both sides arent locked?
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My F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
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Putting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
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My 2010 F350 shudders when turning right. From what I read it could be the auto locking hubs not dis-engaging or sticking in the locked position. Tutorials show it's pretty easy to pull the auto locking Hub out taking out the three screws holding it in place. My questions is what type of grease do I need to apply to the auto locking hub once I have them out and determine that is what the issue is?
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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I replaced both front bearings, calipers, brake pads, now I have a grinding noise on the left side front stops sometimes when you step on the brakes? 1999 F350 ...
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I just got a 2000 F350 cc drw 7.3l.
I did search but have had no luck. My turn signals do not work, unless my foot is on the brake pedal my green arrow indicator wont even turn on. When they do my bulbs work but don't cycle so I know all the bulbs are good as I had my wife check all four corners when I got them to come on for a split second. I have tried replacing the MFS and the turn signal relay under the radio in the dash.... When I do turn on my blinkers I can hear the relay click once but that is it, no more.
I tried checking the wiring in the column and tilting the column to its extremes while trying to engage the turn signals. Also, if I unplug the brake light switch then I do not get an arrow on the IC to light up so I am guessing the power flows through that switch. I don't have a chilton manual yet and the owners manual was not in the truck. I did check fuse 23 ?
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'08 F350 6.4l 4wd, I had the truck come in with a exploded transfer case. (See pics). Ive read all about this happening to many others. The truck still drove, hubs not locked, plenty of fluid in the TC, pretty sure it was the double Cardan that did it. Anyways I replaced thwith TC, replaced the front driveshaft, filled the TC with recommended fluid. Test drove and drives great, shifts fine. Only until I turned left.
At slow speeds turning hard or 15-20 taking a turn, it sounds like a ratchet clicking from somewhere on the left side, right around the drivers door, from what I can hear from the cab. Does it in 2wd, 4wd hi/low, hubs locked or not. I changed the vacuum pump, no leaks, changed the IWE solenoid, pulled out both locking mechanisms, tightened crossmember, checked everything from the hours of research I did on the internet. I cannot find the problem. I don't know what else to check. Front axles free spin and lock when they are supposed to. I'm at the end...
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0, my left rear stop signal is not working. I have changed the relay. I only get 5-6 volts at the plug and green-orange wire all the way to the engine bay. Not sure what the problem is????
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Well, I tried this Death Wobble Kit on my Ford F350 Super Duty from a company called WC Motorsports. Had it installed at a Ford Dealership. DO NOT BUY this kit. Missing parts right out of the box. Also makes a horrible clanking noise after install. Piece of junk. Possible fix to one problem only to have multiple other problems:
1. Clanking Noise
2. Truck pulls to the left
3. Have to cut the factory subframe. (Never a good idea)
4. Changes the degree (not recommended by Ford)
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1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
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