Does the switch cluster for the upfitter switches pry out? from the top, bottom? do you need to access from the side? Pictures welcome
I also have the brake controller installed
I hooked up one of my upfitter switches in my 2007 F-350 diesel.
I would like to do the same thing in my 2015 F-350 diesel truck.
I would like to use it to attempt to get the truck warm before use as I am experiencing poor heat characteristics in this truck.
See this thread,
[URL]
I will change the cluster lights to blue LEDs.
Some "leftover" questions:
How do I get the needles "clear" instead of red?
How to remove and reinstall the needles the "right way" (e.g. calibration)
Everything else I could find here in different posts.
2008 F350 when I switch the 4x4 to 4 Hi or low the cluster light doesnt indicate it has switched into 4x4 probably 50% of the time it works 50 it doesnt! I have pulled the transfer case shift motor off tested and working installed a new 4x4 switch, checked the relays it has been to Ford two times last week and once they pulled an error code that says (switch, 4x4 module or wiring problem)! Ford did reprogram the 4x4 module just to see if it would fix it and no change all this leads me to believe its the 4x4 module!?
View 14 RepliesHow do I remove the neutral safety switch? I bought a replacement and am having trouble removing it.
After shifting into neutral, I disconnected the connector, then unbolted the two screws. Now I can't get the little white ring that connects the lever coming from the transmission to the actual switch. I have tried prying it off with a screwdriver, spraying a little PB Blaster to lubricate it a little. Nothing will get it off it seems.
I'm leaving to go back up to school tomorrow afternoon, and I need to have this fixed before I leave.
I have my observation camera wired into upfitter number four. When I flip the switch on, the light in the end of it lights up, but I'm not getting any power to the monitor. I put a volt meter to the end of its cable and it is dead.
Is there an individual fuse for the upfitter or something I can check to get back up and running? I had the switch wired three years ago and it has worked without fail since.
I went to get my front window tinted and the place didn't have the "tool" to remove the rear view mirror and they did not want to get very aggressive with the mallet in fear of breaking the windshield. Has anyone bene able to get any of the "home methods" to work? I contacted a couple of local auto window repair places and they said they wouldn't do it because the windshield "ALWAYS" breaks.
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2014 F-250 with out upfitter switches, how hard it would be to add them now? and if the wiring is there?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
View 4 RepliesSo, on my drive home from the pub tonight, my clusters went dead, then came back on, then died again. This behavior repeated for the 5 mile drive home. In addition, I believe the lights weren't working as well. The engine was still running, so I simply continued on home and parked for the night. The only thing I can think of might be the problem is the fact that I replaced the serpentine belt the day before yesterday. Is it possible that the alternator is not charging the battery properly and that is what my problem is?
View 14 Replies2003 f350 5.4L auto 4x4. The lights stopped working on the dash so now I can't see the speedo at night. All the dummy lights and gauges work. I checked the 3 fuses for the cluster from the owners manual. All 3 are good. Here's the thing, fuse 35, Checked for continuity, my meter read 192 not all zero's like it should have. I pulled the fuse and rechecked it, it was good.
I replaced it anyway. rechecked with fuse in, I get 192 again. pulled fuse again, checked both sides of socket for voltage and I'm getting 12.64 volts on both sides of the socket. Even though the fuse reads good, could this be the reason my cluster isn't lighting up? Is there a fuse on the back of the cluster?
I see a lot of threads on the cluster lights being out but its usually no tail lights or power windows or other things, and if there's a solution nobody is posting it. Mine is simply no lights on dash or I should say (No Back lighting). All my lights inside and outside work.
My brand new 2016 F-250 Super Duty has a misalignment running down the steering column. Looking just over the top of the airbag cover, the shroud that protects the gear shift and upper steering components is depressed on one side... and further back, the shroud for the cluster is depressed a different direction. Certainly nothing earth shattering, but it annoys me every time I see it.
View 2 RepliesI am really hoping that my instrument cluster in not working because my alternator went out at the same time. I really hope they are connected somehow. I really need a wiring diagram for this one. Just got the truck last week and have been taking care of the little things to get it fixed up and make it my own. my new rear step bumper came in today. I will be dropping off the the alternator for a rebuild tomorrow. So looking for a wiring diagram?
View 7 RepliesWed evening I dried a couple of coils ouit from another problem I was having and the truck was running fine. Went out this morning and nothing. Tried to start the truck and just a buzzing underdash area, assumed battery down from something left on. Battery was at 12 volts so put my charger on it. Nothing. Was sitting in the truck with key in but in off position and noticed the buzzing was still happening. Swapped some relays in the fusebox, nothing. Cleaned up the battery terminals, pulled the fusebox down and everything looked good. Had had fusebox issues but it seemed fine.
Eventually noticed that the buzzing can happen with the key out of the truck. Cannot see any wetness under there to cause a problem. I did do a search and see where roof light leaks can cause a problem by putting water into the wiring and my roof is a little rusty around a couple of the lights. How do I get to the control box on the cluster that seems to do so much.
Just the other day I fired the truck up and turned the lights on and my headlights came on but my gauges didn't light up. I figured I probably had a blown fuse or something so I didn't bother checking it immediately and decided to drive home anyways and on the way home I got a phone call saying that my running lights weren't working either. Front or rear. Still have brake lights and turn signals but no running lights. I've checked all the fuses and none of them are blown and I'm going nuts trying to figure out what is wrong before I get a ticket. I'm tired of lightly holding the brake as I pass by cops at night. What could be causing this issue?
View 11 Replies05 6.0L xlt if that matters. Occasionally, I'll be driving and the speedometer will stick at a certain speed as I slow down. So yesterday it happened again on my way to work, but it was worse. I noticed that as I was driving, the needle was stuck at 0mph. Then a minute later as I was accelerating from a stop, It began working again. A few minutes later, as I was slowing down for a red light, it was stuck at 55mph. As I accelerate again, the needle moves as if 55mph is 0mph. Then it stuck at 85. And as I drive, the needle is just pegged well past 100mph, even though, I'm doing 65-70 max. I have Torque Pro, and all the info from the computer is correct, I can accurately measure my speed from there. Turning the truck off does not reset the needle or anything. It still remains stuck with the truck off, which makes me think it's something mechanical. Eventually, the needle usually lets go and begins working normally for a while.
In addition to the speedo issue, which has happened multiple times, The tachometer was working correctly, then all of a sudden was showing that the RPMs were about 800-1000 lower than normal. When idling, the needle was at zero. When at 65, the needle was around 1000-1100, when it normally reads about 1900. When I left work last night, the tach was fine, but the speedo was still stuck at 85.
It doesn't do it very often, it's just frustrating when it does. All the other gauges seem to function normally. The temp gauges still move, although, I know that means pretty much nothing. The boost gauge is good too.
I'm having a little problem with my F350. I've had it for about a month now and the cluster had no problems or whatsoever. Then, I drove it today and I noticed that the instrument cluster is not working at all. The lights work, but the gauges wouldn't move. When I turn the key before starting it the chime is beeping faster than it usually did before and it wouldn't shut off unless I close the door. It also only indicates the airbag and battery light. I checked all the fuses and they were good especially #15 or #16 can't remember it right now.
I don't know if its related, but this past saturday I was messing with the overhead instrument cluster for the gas mileage and all that. I soldered some of the relays back on and that was it. I started the truck after I did all that, but everything was still working. It's been bugging me all day today.
I want to remove the 4x4 stickers on my 2014 SD box. I think it looks cleaner without them. Are they difficult to remove or does the hair dryer trick and then some Goo-Gone do the trick without a big time effort? The last thing I want to do is make a mess of the paint finish.
View 13 RepliesLooking to get rid of the step handle, I did this mod on mine and it was a direct fit...take off old liner and unbolt handle, then get a liner from a non-step tailgate and it is a direct fit:
View 7 RepliesOK, so I ordered in the new lines and have them. BUT my problem is snaking the factory transmission line out from under the truck. I have pictures to show my struggles.
How do I pull this:
Out of here???
Towards the front of the motor
Front passenger side cab corner
Replacing these lines? I don't care about breaking the old one, but I still need to find a way to install the new one.
I am wanting to take off the center console lid to recover it. The only way I see to remove just the lid from the truck is to hit the rod out that is in the hinge. I was hitting pretty hard with a punch and it wasn't moving. I don't really want to break it so I'm asking if there is a different way or if I just need to use more force?!
View 4 Replies