Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2015 F350 - Rear Axle Pinion Seal Leak
Feb 17, 2016
I was looking underneath the truck yesterday and saw that the rear end pinion seal was leaking. Looked like it had been for a while. Truck has 35,850 miles on it. Unscrewed the fill plug and a lot of pressure is released. So I'm assuming the breather is clogged somewhere along the line. I have an appointment at the dealer on Friday to see whats wrong. What is supposed to be at the end of the breather tube? Mine has a barbed 45ish degree fitting on the end of it. Its a SRW by the way.
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Pinion seal on my truck is leaking. At auto parts store they gave me National seal part number 4278. It does not fit it is too small.I went back and other seal they have is too big. What is the part number?
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Put new backing plates, parking brake shoes, springs, etc on my 2004 F350 DRW 4x4. Replaced the inner hub seals and axle o-ring. Filled with Ford Rear end lube and went for a test drive. All was well. Went out last night to take her out again and I've got diff lube running out of both sides on the inside of the rims. Did Ford sell me the wrong seals? Could I have installed the seals wrong? Ford seal part number is 4C3Z1S177A. Axle is a Dana 80, confirmed by reading the tag on the diff.
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I just picked up an 09 F250 a couple of weeks ago and I was planning on replacing all the fluids since I'm not sure when everything had been done in the past, but it did pull a camper 5th wheel. It has about 93000 Km/57000mi on it
One thing I noticed when reading the manual is that a rear diff fluid change is not necessary on these rear axles unless they have been submerged in water or repaired etc..
Just after I got it I noticed the pinion seal was leaking. It was fixed under warranty but the dealer did not replace the diff fluid as they said Ford will not pay for it.
My question is do you think I need to replace the diff fluid or should it still be good, given the relatively low mileage.
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99, F250, 4X4, V10, 72,000 miles. I have had the front axle seals replaced three times in the past 3000 miles, and the right continues to leak. My mechanic screwed up three times?
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Putting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
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I have a 2000 F250 4x4 7.3 - About a month ago I drove across town and then noticed a strong hot brake smell from the rear of the truck. When I drove home about 2 hours later it was gone and didn't return until today. Today I stopped at a light with my window down and got the same hot brake smell, looked in the mirror and saw smoke coming from my drive's side rear wheel.
I carefully drove home (the smoke was now gone, all i did was cycle the parking brake release a couple of times) and pulled the wheel off. Rotor was really hot but smooth and clean. Brake caliper and pads looked great (no sign of the pads glazing or dragging, dry as a bone). The inside of the rotor was wet with oil. The brake shoes and components were soaked with the same fluid/oil.
Does this sound like a typical hub seal issue? Excuse my ignorance since I haven't had the rear hubs apart before but does the gear oil in the rear diff go into the axle tubes? I know the front tubes are dry but I didn't know if the rears are different. The amount of fluid on the brakes seems to be more than the little bit that is inside the hub. I need to pick up the parts and rent/purchase a couple of tools to replace the seal so I want to be as sure as possible that I'm on the right track...
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What exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
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If I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
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I'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
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I noticed the other day after my truck was parked on a bit of a angle there was diff oil from the passenger side on the ground. reading a bit on here i learned the axle seals are way in the front housing close to the front diff. and yesterday driving a heavy load around my front brake driver side got stuck on a bit and over heated and was smoking, couldn't even touch the rim it was so hot. anyway about this axle seal i got the hub off right now but cant seem to pull out the axle assembly through the knuckle but i see i have to pry and most likely wreck that seal. Looking for a link of piuctures or how to replace the axle seals in the housing.
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99, F250, 4X4, V10, 72,000 miles. I have had the front axle seals replaced three times in the past 3000 miles, and the right continues to leak. My mechanic screwed up three times?
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Replacing the knuckle/axle seal due to my hub not holding a vacuum. I finally got the seal off the axle after several minutes of beating, but it finally came off. During the beating the metal shield that was in back of the seal took a beating as well and can not be reused. Is it really needed?
In this thread the pictures show that the shield was not installed after the seal was replaced. The shield does serve a purpose to keep crap out of the seal though.
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Do I need a special tool to put the outer axle seal on a 2003 excursion? I could make one if I new how far down it needs to be. I'm replacing the needle bearings in the back of the hubs and it looks like the last seals were not on far enough and the hub tore them up....
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Will leaving the parking brake on burn up the axle seals? My parking brake isn't working well at the moment. I need new ones from all the fluid my bad seals leaked on them. So, at the moment they just scrub a bit while its engaged. However, today I found out that my parking brake light for one reason or another is not working and I got in a hurry and didn't release the brake. by the time I got to where I was headed (about 15 miles), I could smell gear fluid burning and my driver side rear was smoking. I'm hoping its the fluid that was already soaked into the shoes. I did find a drop of fluid on the bottom of my brake caliper.
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Trying to figure out my rear pinion angle should be. I still have vibration in the truck around 65-70 mph and sometimes around 80mph if i go that fast. I checked my rear axle last night and its at 8.5 degrees on top of the pinion snout is that correct???? And i forgot to measure the rear driveshaft angle but i can do that after work when i get home. Truck is a 2004 ext cab short bed 4x4...
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New issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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I am working on my Dads 01 super duty with a 5.4, automatic, and the pinion bearing has seized up due to a lack of fluid from a rusted out rear diff cover. The tag on the diff cover had a 10.5 stamped on it and has 12 bolts. Is this known as a ford 10.5"
I have changed gears and pinion bearings in a Dana 70 before is this the same process? What are part numbers for a new pinion bearing and seal? Gears are in fine shape.
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I have a 2015 F250, cc 4X4 PSD. It has 22,000 miles on it. I notice a small quarter sized drop of oil after it is parked by the right side front wheel. It is coming from behind the dust cover and universal joint where the axle goes into the tube. I dont know how long it has been leaking. My issue is I am about 800 miles from home on a camping trip, have to go back to work Monday, and lcoal dealer here can't take it in till next week. So, if the hubs are not locked and the truck is in 2 wheel drive, the gears shouldn't be turning right? I assume it is ok to drive home. I didn't want to pull the plug and check the fluid because if any runs out and leaves a stain on the cover, I don't want ford trying to deny warranty claiming I messed with it first.
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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