Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2015 F250 - Rear Wiring Harness Connectors?
Dec 26, 2014
I'm trying to find out what the two connectors in the image are.. I've looked through the manual that I have and searched around on the web and find nothing.
They're on a 2015 F250. "upfitter" switches were installed from the factory.
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I have a 2006 F250 and my 7pin and 4 pin connectors are just hanging loose. I'm not sure what happened to the factory bracket. What is the part number for this bracket? Also, where does it mount to? I looked under the truck and couldnt tell where the factory one mounts.
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I have been tracking down my ABS light and found that the left front wheel speed sensor has had the wiring harness ripped off from behind the front wheel. I have about 2ft of the harness coming off of the actual sensor.
Question is, since I cannot locate any wires that this seems to be able to be connected to, can I simply cut and splice these wires directly into the Tan/Black + Tan/Lt Green wires going straight to my ABS controller?
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Installing a Pop N Lock on a 2016? What were the wire colors you tapped into?
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I recently purchased a 2011 F550 Super Duty with a flatbed mounted on it. Turns out, the trailer wiring harness is totally screwed up and I am getting tons of shorts whenever it rains. Going through it front to back, we are finding multiple problems like missing fuse box covers, damaged fuses for starters. The Ford dealership in Texas that did my prepurchase inspection for me totally missed all of this, so i am stuck holding the short end.
IN the rear of the truck we detected shorts in several areas. One of them is in this adapter pictured along with this. Is this a Ford part, or does it appear aftermarket? Is it just an adapter or is it more than that? I am just now getting to l know this truck more specifically. given the date of manufacture on the label it would seem to be from Ford??? Part # is 99-004 and 71-012-A...
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Any info if the "Aux" terminal on the trailer harness wiring on '01 F250s is for reverse lighting? I'd like to put some on my stock trailer. Also, is the "12v" terminal feed switch operated or hot always?
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I recently had need of replacing my left exhaust manifold on a 2000 F250 4 x 4. I removed plastic inner fender well. Now I have a two pin harness with both white wires. One is white with red stripe, the other is white with black stripe. The harness is round with a locking square on one side. The harness is located about 10" from bottom of inner left plastic fender panel. It has 2 mounting pegs. Where the heck does this connect?
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No special extraction tools are required, just a small jeweler screwdriver.
Push the screwdriver into the back of the connector, to push the Red terminal locking bar loose, then extract from the front.
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I've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
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I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
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I have a 2015 F250 with a 6.2L and want to clean my throttle body. I have done several before on other vehicles but, just figured I would ask before I just jump in there. Cleaning throttle body on their 6.2L?
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First tech post for my new truck. I just bought a hold-over but new 2015 F250 XL Supercab 2wd and love the simplicity of no unwanted options. That said, there are two features I am adding. The first is perfectly straightforward, cruise control (swap button cluster and have the function turned on by the dealer). The second is a tiny bit more involved, back-up camera, in mirror display with bluetooth hands-free (I like the simple AM/FM radio because I can work it all with gloves on).
So I basically need three things from the truck and my research has been inconclusive on a couple of things because most of the threads are for 2014 or earlier. I think I can pull switched 12V and ground (pin 1 and 4) plus reverse lights (center, or pin 7) all from the the trailer wiring harness. It appears these are not affected by the canbus load restrictions of other places to tap reverse signal (remember, XL so likely nothing in the overhead console for the auto-dimming rear view mirror). Are there any challenges with this when I do hook up my enclosed trailer or when it is not hooked up regarding the trailer brake controller/anti-sway?
I already found a good youtube video for how to route the wires so I think this is my primary challenge at this point.
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Just bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
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Took delivery of my 2015 F250 in June with 2WD and the 6.2 gas engine. What I thought to be a slow throttle response seems to be more of a quick shifting transmission according to two different dealerships. My 6 speed automatic has already shifted to 4th gear at only 25-30 MPH. My Dodge Hemi I sold never had shifts as quick as this and I think it's to quick. My question is....is there a way to change these shift points so I get more speed before it shifts into the higher gears?
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Dealer says groaning noise at start up, when I let my foot off brake at a stand still is normal,worse if i turn steering wheel with brake on.
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2 weeks ago, I purchased a 2015 F250 6.2 with 16K miles. Upon bringing her home, I noticed that there is a buzzing noise coming from the engine compartment after I shut down the motor which lasts approximately one minute (give or take). Since the truck is still under factory warranty, I figure I'll take it to the local dealership, but I'm wondering with the 6.2 has had the same issue and what the issue could possibly be.
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2015 F250 diesel. I am hooking up an air pressure gauge inside the cab to report the pressure on my rear aftermarket air bags. The pressure reading will come from a tap on the actual pressure line, but I need 12vdc to operate the backlight on the gauge. I have found a bundle of loose wires under the steering column, 4 of which are firewall pass-through wires for the upfitter switches. Do one of the remaining wires in the bundle is an accessory power wire? I need a plain key-on accessory wire connection, not a dash-light connection.
I am using one of the upfitter switches to switch my on-board air compressor and a second switch to inflate/deflate the air bags. Want to save the other 2 switches for future use.
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I just got a 15 f250 with the console and nav system but it didn't come with the upfitter switches.
I picked these up and got a copy of the .pdf for the installation, but I'm finding it hard to follow for where the relay and box should install. I ran the wire up to the upfitter switch location and can even find a nice spot to connect the grounding wire.
I can't for the life of me figure out where the box installs and where the wiring harness taps into the main harness. Need a photo of where your box is installed and where it taps into the main harness?
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I love my new truck. '15 250 CC SB. It would be nice if when I am backing up not to have the dash lights in my eyes once I turn off the head/parking lights at night. I turn off the head lights so as to make everything darker. Much easier to see what is in my mirrors.
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Do a topper off a 2005 f-250 shortbox will fit on a 2015 f-250 shortbox? Other than the tailgate step, I can't think of any other differences.
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This is my first diesel but my 4th Ford truck. The truck currently has 4000 miles on it. My first incident started at 500 miles when my windshield gasket or lack/loss of silicone on the upper gasket decided to go. This caused a tornado in my cab at 6 am blowing coffee out of my cup and literally atomizing it all over myself pretty much LMFAO. It sounded like a helicopter attack at 40mph when it went. Ended up being towed to the dealer for repair. At around 2k miles the truck started too stink, like exhaust and coolant maybe. I'm thinking it's the DEF or the left overs from a regen cycle (newbie). At 4K miles, it's getting worse. The cab almost feels like deicing in the plane on the runway, nothing but fumes. It literally blows in through my HVAC vents straight into the cab. I'm glad I own the company because I'd be afraid of getting a drug test when I got too work. Instant red eyes. It is not as bad while driving but starts up again at red lights etc. It's a handful of times a week it does this. Things I've checked, water separator, 0 water in diesel. I've tried different gas stations and different DEF brands. Nothing makes it better or worse. I've read that I'm not alone, God speeds too us skunk trucks.
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