Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2015 F250 - Driver Side Door Rattle?
Dec 30, 2014
Have a 15 250 diesel and my drivers side door has a rattle in it. Seems to be coming from around the area were the mirror buttons are. Removed that little panel and applied some silicone around the edges and seemed to work for a bit then back to noise. Seems to go away when cab heats up good or warm outside.
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3, an my radio is staying on when I turn the key off and open the drivers door. Windows are also still working. But if I open the passenger door it shuts off. What do I need to fix this I am tired of leaning way over and tryind to open that door every time I turn the truck off. I have been told to spray wd-40 into the door catch are i used a whole can an it still isn't working...
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My factory-ordered 2016 F250 CC SB 6.2L 4X4 3.73 is about 6 weeks old. Driver and passenger side door rattle noise (in upper back corner) at highway speeds (65-75 mph) has gotten progressively worse over those 6 weeks. See attached video.
Trying to determine if this is caused by:
Door seals: the temperature here in Iowa has dropped from a few weeks in the 90's to the now in the mid-60's.
Could the temperature change have caused the seals to change shape/structure and result in the rattle/noise?
The exterior seal between the front and back doors (attached to front of the back door): mine seems a little loose on top, but nothing that would cause this kind of noise.
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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99 F250 Lariat SC 5.4 with 98,980 miles. As the title says, I cannot open the rear drivers door. It seems that the cable has broken.
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After the years and 300k miles, the door hinge on the driver side door are getting some play. I wonder if i can replace just the pin on this hinge or the whole thing needs to be replaced. By the way, I am talking about a 00' F450 ...
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Just came back from breaking in new brake pads. Instructions called for five moderate to aggressive stops from 45 to 10mph, then five moderate stops from 35 to 5mph, then cool down and drive as normal. Drivers side door opened fine when I got in to do the test. It's been opening and closing OK since I bought the truck a few months ago. Got back from my break-in procedure, and the drivers side door wouldn't open more than about 8". Had to crawl over and exit from the passenger side. Found that the drivers side door is binding against the front fender about midway down.
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I have a '99 Super Duty Club Cab and the driver side door lock switch is not working. Passenger side switch locks and unlocks both doors just fine. Full disclaimer, the driver side actuator is wearing out and doesn't work all the time but I can always hear it engaging when the passenger switch is activated. So I know the driver side actuator is on it's way out and have plans to replace it.
That being said here is what I have done that leads me to believe the driver side lock switch is fine and the problem lies elsewhere....I just don't know where. If I swap the driver and passenger lock switches, the drivers side switch will work when plugged into the passenger side but the passenger switch will no longer work when plugged into the driver side. This tells me the switch is fine and my problem lies somewhere else. Where I should start to track this problem down?
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I have a v10 ticking on drivers side when I first take off in it. It doesn't do it idling and stops after you drive about a mile. I just had ford tune it up before this started so I took it back to have them check the plugs and they said it was a rod! Didn't sound right too me but I did check manifold bolts and they all was in place. Also if it was a rod would the noise go away???
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So today pulling out of the gas station I turned my steering wheel to the left and I heard a high pitch squeal from the drivers side. It wouldn't do it again unless I was just creeping, nothing going down the road. I did a few searches on here but they all are if the truck is moving say 30 mph or better. I know I need to replace my ball joints. 99 F250, V10, 4X4, extended cab.
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The driver's side mirror on my '06 250 (tow, heated, power, signal) got cracked... and of course whoever did it didn't stick around!!! Two questions...
Is it possible to replace just the glass? Or am I looking at replacing the entire unit?
Would you have a part number, or a link to a good online catalog?
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Driver's side rear door quit working today - opens about an inch or so. What is the remedy?
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As the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
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-10'C this mornin and my driver side windshield sprayer is frozen solid. After 10 mins I can see the snow and ice melt around it but still won't spray. This is typical of cars with too much space between engine and hood.
Gonna have to get out the extension and hairdryer tonight. Maybe find some kind of portable mini dryer that works off my 12v to 120v converter as a long term solution.
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Cat like noises coming from front driver side tire .. honestly sounds like a cat ..it gets louder the faster I go ... what it could be ?
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I have a leak at the driver side exhaust manifold. Its a little tough getting at it to tell if its a lose bolt, crack or bad gasket. What would be the best way to get at this area? Should i remove the tire and wheel well or is their a better way. If i can get at it i may replace the manifold all together.
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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here's the problem. The driver side front power window will only go down and not up. I checked the motor and the master switch with a multimeter and both work just fine. the motor is receiving power and the master switch is sending power. However when i plug the motor back in and re-install it, the window will not go up. Is there some sort of relay that might have gone bad that is not letting the motor raise the window up???
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