Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2015 F250 6.7 - Woes - Rough Start Up?
Jan 20, 2016
This is my first diesel but my 4th Ford truck. The truck currently has 4000 miles on it. My first incident started at 500 miles when my windshield gasket or lack/loss of silicone on the upper gasket decided to go. This caused a tornado in my cab at 6 am blowing coffee out of my cup and literally atomizing it all over myself pretty much LMFAO. It sounded like a helicopter attack at 40mph when it went. Ended up being towed to the dealer for repair. At around 2k miles the truck started too stink, like exhaust and coolant maybe. I'm thinking it's the DEF or the left overs from a regen cycle (newbie). At 4K miles, it's getting worse. The cab almost feels like deicing in the plane on the runway, nothing but fumes. It literally blows in through my HVAC vents straight into the cab. I'm glad I own the company because I'd be afraid of getting a drug test when I got too work. Instant red eyes. It is not as bad while driving but starts up again at red lights etc. It's a handful of times a week it does this. Things I've checked, water separator, 0 water in diesel. I've tried different gas stations and different DEF brands. Nothing makes it better or worse. I've read that I'm not alone, God speeds too us skunk trucks.
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Im an outside sales rep and I drove 85k miles last year in a F-150. The time came where I needed a new company truck and now I'm in a 2015 F-250 2wd 6.2l lariat. I love the truck but my back is killing me. I've only had it a little over 3 weeks but it has over 6k miles on it. The majority of the time my bed is unloaded but there has been a few times my 1/2 ton was overloaded so i stepped up to a 3/4 ton. Ive tried lowering my tire pressure but the TPMS light comes on. I also bought sand bags to leave in the back of my truck to add weight to it when not loaded. Im about to pull the trigger on bilstein 5100s but was wondering of there is anything else I could do make the truck ride a little smoother.
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Dealer says groaning noise at start up, when I let my foot off brake at a stand still is normal,worse if i turn steering wheel with brake on.
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I'm having multiple electrical problems and not sure if all related or not but they started at the same time.
1) Occasionally (getting more frequent) truck acts like its almost dead and wont start, but if i remote start it cranks right up
2) Radio doesn't shut off when I open the door, but if i close it and open again it does
3) phone staying connected to bluetooth but its acting up when trying use phone for music
Pretty sure there is more but I cant think of them now.
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Just bought the truck and when remote starting it i noticed it is turning on the heat. Having read a bunch of different posts it sounds like the climate control would be set to automatic which i would like to have it just use were i set my controls. Problem is i do not have any options on the instrument cluster for climate control and no auto button the the heater controls themselves. I would think that means i do not have automatic climate control but it is doing it. How to turn it off?
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I just bought this 99 f250 7.3 Powerstroke last week.. drove it all week fine, I car pool with a family member to work and asked his girlfriend to plug my truck in for me, well she didn't and it had stalled on the way home one morning but started up after cranking a few times i thought nothing of it. Drove it a little bit that day and it was fine, while I let it idle in my drive way as I prepared to go work it started running really rough then died. It took a long time to start again..now it's happening all the time. I changed the fuel filter and someones telling me there's air in the lines..
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So, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
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When I bought my 05 350 dually it had been wrecked, the rear diff was under the bumper and most of the rear suspension, including the back part of the rear drive shaft was in the bed of the truck. I have gotten everything back in place, and have driven the truck for a few weeks, but I knew I was going to have to replace the ujoints because there was visible damage to one of the caps. I have also had a vibration at about 45 mph. I had no way of knowing how the original driveshaft was oriented at the slip yoke so I went with best guess. Now in my research I read that if the driveshaft is not put back exactly in the same position vis a vis the slip yoke it will be out of balance.
Also if the drive shaft is dropped it is scrap, and if I have any lift on the truck {it had 4 inches when I got it} the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. Most of the answers to other drive shaft questions talk about taking things to a good driveshaft shop. No such thing here in the vast stretches of My state. I am pretty much on my own as far as building or repairing this thing. Is there any way to determine how the shaft was originally oriented? I also have some damage on the end of the yoke and will have some trouble getting the ujoint apart. Is the shaft now junk? And if I get an ebay replacement, how do I tell if that shaft is in the right orientation?
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I've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
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I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
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I have a 2015 F250 with a 6.2L and want to clean my throttle body. I have done several before on other vehicles but, just figured I would ask before I just jump in there. Cleaning throttle body on their 6.2L?
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First tech post for my new truck. I just bought a hold-over but new 2015 F250 XL Supercab 2wd and love the simplicity of no unwanted options. That said, there are two features I am adding. The first is perfectly straightforward, cruise control (swap button cluster and have the function turned on by the dealer). The second is a tiny bit more involved, back-up camera, in mirror display with bluetooth hands-free (I like the simple AM/FM radio because I can work it all with gloves on).
So I basically need three things from the truck and my research has been inconclusive on a couple of things because most of the threads are for 2014 or earlier. I think I can pull switched 12V and ground (pin 1 and 4) plus reverse lights (center, or pin 7) all from the the trailer wiring harness. It appears these are not affected by the canbus load restrictions of other places to tap reverse signal (remember, XL so likely nothing in the overhead console for the auto-dimming rear view mirror). Are there any challenges with this when I do hook up my enclosed trailer or when it is not hooked up regarding the trailer brake controller/anti-sway?
I already found a good youtube video for how to route the wires so I think this is my primary challenge at this point.
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Just bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
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Took delivery of my 2015 F250 in June with 2WD and the 6.2 gas engine. What I thought to be a slow throttle response seems to be more of a quick shifting transmission according to two different dealerships. My 6 speed automatic has already shifted to 4th gear at only 25-30 MPH. My Dodge Hemi I sold never had shifts as quick as this and I think it's to quick. My question is....is there a way to change these shift points so I get more speed before it shifts into the higher gears?
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2 weeks ago, I purchased a 2015 F250 6.2 with 16K miles. Upon bringing her home, I noticed that there is a buzzing noise coming from the engine compartment after I shut down the motor which lasts approximately one minute (give or take). Since the truck is still under factory warranty, I figure I'll take it to the local dealership, but I'm wondering with the 6.2 has had the same issue and what the issue could possibly be.
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2015 F250 diesel. I am hooking up an air pressure gauge inside the cab to report the pressure on my rear aftermarket air bags. The pressure reading will come from a tap on the actual pressure line, but I need 12vdc to operate the backlight on the gauge. I have found a bundle of loose wires under the steering column, 4 of which are firewall pass-through wires for the upfitter switches. Do one of the remaining wires in the bundle is an accessory power wire? I need a plain key-on accessory wire connection, not a dash-light connection.
I am using one of the upfitter switches to switch my on-board air compressor and a second switch to inflate/deflate the air bags. Want to save the other 2 switches for future use.
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I just got a 15 f250 with the console and nav system but it didn't come with the upfitter switches.
I picked these up and got a copy of the .pdf for the installation, but I'm finding it hard to follow for where the relay and box should install. I ran the wire up to the upfitter switch location and can even find a nice spot to connect the grounding wire.
I can't for the life of me figure out where the box installs and where the wiring harness taps into the main harness. Need a photo of where your box is installed and where it taps into the main harness?
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I love my new truck. '15 250 CC SB. It would be nice if when I am backing up not to have the dash lights in my eyes once I turn off the head/parking lights at night. I turn off the head lights so as to make everything darker. Much easier to see what is in my mirrors.
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Do a topper off a 2005 f-250 shortbox will fit on a 2015 f-250 shortbox? Other than the tailgate step, I can't think of any other differences.
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I have a 2015 ford f250 xlt crew cab, 6.2, fx4 with about 1200 miles on it. My questions are, I have noticed a hissing or whistling noise while accelerating. I took to dealer and was told it was the throttle plates not closing all the way.I was told they all do this. Normal? Very annoying noise with windows down. Another noise I have been having is the brake pedal makes a popping noise while applying pressure to brakes. Dealer said brake pedal assembly was out of alignment. They said was out of alignment 1/8". After adjustment within a few days popping started again.
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Have a Whistling or hissing sound while accelerating? My 2015 6.2 seems to make this sound while under load. I took to dealer and they claim its the throttle plates not closing all the way. Claims this is normal, but to me it is annoying. Just would like to know what others think.
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