Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2015 F250 6.2 - Buzzing Noise On Shutdown
Feb 27, 2017
2 weeks ago, I purchased a 2015 F250 6.2 with 16K miles. Upon bringing her home, I noticed that there is a buzzing noise coming from the engine compartment after I shut down the motor which lasts approximately one minute (give or take). Since the truck is still under factory warranty, I figure I'll take it to the local dealership, but I'm wondering with the 6.2 has had the same issue and what the issue could possibly be.
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I own a 2003 f250 superduty v8 gas. I have a buzzing noise that comes and goes. It comes from the dashboard area around the steering column. However it goes away when either I press on the brakes, hit the signal or press my tow brake control.. And I could go days and not here it then it will be there for a few days and then it goes away again...
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2004 F250 SuperDuty 6.0L Diesel. The turn signal (left or right), it would make a buzzing noise, so I located the relay under the steering wheel (by putting my hand on it and seeing which one was buzzing) and replaced it, I bought a replacement at Schucks, then the buzzing noise went away, and the clicking noise is back.
But.... I don't see the turn signal lights in the dashboard and the turn lights are not working, I checked, what could be the problem ? I read the owners manual, in the fuse box under the steering wheel, fuze #18 is used for turn lights, but it is not blown.
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Dealer says groaning noise at start up, when I let my foot off brake at a stand still is normal,worse if i turn steering wheel with brake on.
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I have a 2015 ford f250 xlt crew cab, 6.2, fx4 with about 1200 miles on it. My questions are, I have noticed a hissing or whistling noise while accelerating. I took to dealer and was told it was the throttle plates not closing all the way.I was told they all do this. Normal? Very annoying noise with windows down. Another noise I have been having is the brake pedal makes a popping noise while applying pressure to brakes. Dealer said brake pedal assembly was out of alignment. They said was out of alignment 1/8". After adjustment within a few days popping started again.
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Just bought my first Ford. Its a 2015 F250 Platinum. Im at 1400 miles and Im becoming concerned because when I start the truck for the first time in the day, no matter how long I let it sit and warm up I am noticing that on the first couple of miles of driving I hear a high revving sound as I accelerate and it seems to quick shift during those first few miles.
As I continue to drive the high rev sound just fades away and all engine sounds and shifting are as normal as can be and will remain that way until the truck has been sitting for an extended period of time and is cold. I thought it had something to do with tranny temp but this morning I let the tranny warm up to about 115 deg in neutral before taking off but still had the high rev for the first few miles. I have never owned a ford nor have I ever owned a heavy duty truck, hoping this is normal.
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I just bought a 11 f350 powerstroke. CC lariat 4x4 with 70k miles. Whenever i turn off the truck abt 30-45 seconds later a humming starts and continues for abt 1 minute. Sounds like a pump or a release of air? Is this a normal function or should i have it checked out. I've searched around but found very mixed answers.
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I have a '12 F250 w/ 6.7 diesel. Lately when I turn off the ignition after a few seconds I hear a noise that sounds like a small electric pump coming from under the hood on the passenger side.
This also happened a while back but at the time the service people said they could not get it to do that and it eventually stopped.
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I've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
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I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
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I have an 2005 F250 4.2tdi XLT. There is a buzzing sound coming from somewhere near the fuel filter area in the engine bay. This started after changing the fuel filter during a service. Its also difficult to start now. It has to swing for 10 secs before the engine fires. What it could be?
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I have a 2015 F250 with a 6.2L and want to clean my throttle body. I have done several before on other vehicles but, just figured I would ask before I just jump in there. Cleaning throttle body on their 6.2L?
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First tech post for my new truck. I just bought a hold-over but new 2015 F250 XL Supercab 2wd and love the simplicity of no unwanted options. That said, there are two features I am adding. The first is perfectly straightforward, cruise control (swap button cluster and have the function turned on by the dealer). The second is a tiny bit more involved, back-up camera, in mirror display with bluetooth hands-free (I like the simple AM/FM radio because I can work it all with gloves on).
So I basically need three things from the truck and my research has been inconclusive on a couple of things because most of the threads are for 2014 or earlier. I think I can pull switched 12V and ground (pin 1 and 4) plus reverse lights (center, or pin 7) all from the the trailer wiring harness. It appears these are not affected by the canbus load restrictions of other places to tap reverse signal (remember, XL so likely nothing in the overhead console for the auto-dimming rear view mirror). Are there any challenges with this when I do hook up my enclosed trailer or when it is not hooked up regarding the trailer brake controller/anti-sway?
I already found a good youtube video for how to route the wires so I think this is my primary challenge at this point.
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Just bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
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Took delivery of my 2015 F250 in June with 2WD and the 6.2 gas engine. What I thought to be a slow throttle response seems to be more of a quick shifting transmission according to two different dealerships. My 6 speed automatic has already shifted to 4th gear at only 25-30 MPH. My Dodge Hemi I sold never had shifts as quick as this and I think it's to quick. My question is....is there a way to change these shift points so I get more speed before it shifts into the higher gears?
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2015 F250 diesel. I am hooking up an air pressure gauge inside the cab to report the pressure on my rear aftermarket air bags. The pressure reading will come from a tap on the actual pressure line, but I need 12vdc to operate the backlight on the gauge. I have found a bundle of loose wires under the steering column, 4 of which are firewall pass-through wires for the upfitter switches. Do one of the remaining wires in the bundle is an accessory power wire? I need a plain key-on accessory wire connection, not a dash-light connection.
I am using one of the upfitter switches to switch my on-board air compressor and a second switch to inflate/deflate the air bags. Want to save the other 2 switches for future use.
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I just got a 15 f250 with the console and nav system but it didn't come with the upfitter switches.
I picked these up and got a copy of the .pdf for the installation, but I'm finding it hard to follow for where the relay and box should install. I ran the wire up to the upfitter switch location and can even find a nice spot to connect the grounding wire.
I can't for the life of me figure out where the box installs and where the wiring harness taps into the main harness. Need a photo of where your box is installed and where it taps into the main harness?
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I love my new truck. '15 250 CC SB. It would be nice if when I am backing up not to have the dash lights in my eyes once I turn off the head/parking lights at night. I turn off the head lights so as to make everything darker. Much easier to see what is in my mirrors.
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Do a topper off a 2005 f-250 shortbox will fit on a 2015 f-250 shortbox? Other than the tailgate step, I can't think of any other differences.
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This is my first diesel but my 4th Ford truck. The truck currently has 4000 miles on it. My first incident started at 500 miles when my windshield gasket or lack/loss of silicone on the upper gasket decided to go. This caused a tornado in my cab at 6 am blowing coffee out of my cup and literally atomizing it all over myself pretty much LMFAO. It sounded like a helicopter attack at 40mph when it went. Ended up being towed to the dealer for repair. At around 2k miles the truck started too stink, like exhaust and coolant maybe. I'm thinking it's the DEF or the left overs from a regen cycle (newbie). At 4K miles, it's getting worse. The cab almost feels like deicing in the plane on the runway, nothing but fumes. It literally blows in through my HVAC vents straight into the cab. I'm glad I own the company because I'd be afraid of getting a drug test when I got too work. Instant red eyes. It is not as bad while driving but starts up again at red lights etc. It's a handful of times a week it does this. Things I've checked, water separator, 0 water in diesel. I've tried different gas stations and different DEF brands. Nothing makes it better or worse. I've read that I'm not alone, God speeds too us skunk trucks.
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I had a buzzing noise on acceleration so today I cut all the heat shields off the exhaust system and also bent the bottom of the transmission inspection plate toward the front of the motor. It cured the buzzing noise but when I started the truck up there was a new rattle kind of sound, so I looked and found my y pipe is cracked where the passenger side pipe comes down off the manifold and connects to the pipe that goes to the cat converter.
I don't want to get a whole new y pipe could I order the spd Y pipe and that should work out right? it should be cheaper than a whole new y pipe aswell. I filled up the crack (it cracked 360) with weld but it was tissue paper so I would like to fix it before winter. I also still need to do my passenger side manifold studs and weld a new muffler because I found the rear half of mine is rotted off lol so I will probably do this all at one time.
I'm probably just going to pull everything manifolds and back off the truck, I have a feeling theres a bunch of rust sitting in front of the cat or muffler making the new rattling noise. Also in all my years of wrenching I have never figured out an easy way to get the exhaust off those rubber hangers, I always try to spray wd40 in there to get them to slide easy but always end up tearing them while trying to get them off.
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