I hooked up one of my upfitter switches in my 2007 F-350 diesel.
I would like to do the same thing in my 2015 F-350 diesel truck.
I would like to use it to attempt to get the truck warm before use as I am experiencing poor heat characteristics in this truck.
See this thread,
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Does the switch cluster for the upfitter switches pry out? from the top, bottom? do you need to access from the side? Pictures welcome
I also have the brake controller installed
I'm going to cut right to the chase, when did ford stop having the diesel high idle when it is cold? I have a 2015 350 I bought last August and assumed it would high idle like previous power strokes. I even put a ts6 chip in my 97 just for high idle option to keep the motor warm when idling around our farm. I realize ford probably doesn't want trucks idling long because it kills mpg and isn't good for the emission system but to be honest I could really care less about mpg as long as it's decent and a high idle would keep emissions pushed through. Is there an option or anyway you can get the 6.7 liter to high idle?
View 1 RepliesI have my observation camera wired into upfitter number four. When I flip the switch on, the light in the end of it lights up, but I'm not getting any power to the monitor. I put a volt meter to the end of its cable and it is dead.
Is there an individual fuse for the upfitter or something I can check to get back up and running? I had the switch wired three years ago and it has worked without fail since.
I just bought a 2014 F-250 with out upfitter switches, how hard it would be to add them now? and if the wiring is there?
View 7 Replies1999 F350 Crewcab 4x4 dually V10. Fan switch only works on High. All fuses and relays look Good. Is it a bad speed control switch? What can it be?
View 8 Replies2008 F350 when I switch the 4x4 to 4 Hi or low the cluster light doesnt indicate it has switched into 4x4 probably 50% of the time it works 50 it doesnt! I have pulled the transfer case shift motor off tested and working installed a new 4x4 switch, checked the relays it has been to Ford two times last week and once they pulled an error code that says (switch, 4x4 module or wiring problem)! Ford did reprogram the 4x4 module just to see if it would fix it and no change all this leads me to believe its the 4x4 module!?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2015 F350 PU with the diesel, is there a way to extend or remove the idle timer, fifteen minuets is just to short in the cold country of nevada
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 F250 super duty. I use it for work so I am not sure what happened to it as others have driven it, but here is the issue. When i start it up in 2wd, the 4x4 Low light flashes continually. If I turn the switch to 4x4 high, the 4x4 high light flashes continually. if i turn it to 4x4 low, that light flashes continually. I have read the forums but haven't been able to find the problem/diagnosis for this.
View 2 RepliesJust bought my first Ford. Its a 2015 F250 Platinum. Im at 1400 miles and Im becoming concerned because when I start the truck for the first time in the day, no matter how long I let it sit and warm up I am noticing that on the first couple of miles of driving I hear a high revving sound as I accelerate and it seems to quick shift during those first few miles.
As I continue to drive the high rev sound just fades away and all engine sounds and shifting are as normal as can be and will remain that way until the truck has been sitting for an extended period of time and is cold. I thought it had something to do with tranny temp but this morning I let the tranny warm up to about 115 deg in neutral before taking off but still had the high rev for the first few miles. I have never owned a ford nor have I ever owned a heavy duty truck, hoping this is normal.
I just got a 2003 f250 5.4 triton and it has a terrible knock. I've hear of the cam phaser problems but this thing knocks at high rpm and at idle so I doubt it would be a phaser, I thought it could be a rod bearing but I'm not losing any oil pressure. Its a pretty loud knock I don't have money for a mechanic to diagnosis it...
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F550 with a 6.8L V10 and a 4R100 Auto.
I want to run an underhood hydraulic pump, like what a wrecker uses only I want to use it to run a generator under the truck.
How can I get a 6.8 to idle up to 1200 or so? I searched the Body builders guide and it looks as if the idle up is for the 7.3 only.
My truck also is not a 2005 and up like the other posters, who can take advantage of a drive by wire.
Also I doubt my transmission has a PTO cover so I think a generator option using that route is a dead end. What are my options to idle the truck up to 1200?
New too my Ford, but anyway it's -10 Celsius. My trucks been idling for a few hours and probably will all day because of my job. Usually idles about 600rpm normally. So today the oil temp was about 80degrees Celsius. Then the truck idled up too about 1000rpm for a while. If I touch the gas it goes back to normal idle speed but then starts idling up again after 30 sec. What temp does the truck want too keep it at?
View 3 RepliesPer the instructions I used upfitter #4 and a 21k resistor. High idle works, slight delay and gradual ramp up to 1150 rpm, but why does the wiper turn on for just one wipe now at startup?
View 6 Replies1999 F-250 V10 .... Truck was running perfectly fine except for a random high idle sometimes when put into park but if I gave it a good rev it would drop back down to normal. I assumed it was a dirty IAC or something and figured I'd get around to it later kinda deal. I also had a coolant leak from what I thought was the intake manifold to head gasket on the drivers side right in the front where the upper radiator hose meets the intake manifold so i added water here and there no issues.
One night I need to pull a trailer and didn't have the wiring set up for it in the back so I stopped at advance auto and bought one of those kits that plugs into your brake wiring harness and then plugs into the trailer. I tested it in the parking lot with the trailer and it was all sorts of messed up. My reverse lights stayed on my brake lights didn't work either etc. Turns out it was for the wrong years but plugs matched up coincidentally. I returned the kit and drove home just fine.
Next morning on my way to work truck started misfiring like crazy idle was bouncing all over the place lack of power etc. I took it to advance again after work even though no check engine light came on I still pulled 2 codes. P0300 which is multiple random misfire (no specific bank) and a P0401 which is an EGR Insufficient Flow code. I took it by a local shop I get my oil down at and they told me it was probably the fuel pump that they go bad in these trucks alot.
So I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Nothing changed so I thought maybe that coolant leak had dripped down to the plugs or possibly the intake gasket was getting worse and leaking coolant into the air flow ports since it was thought to already be a problem. So i pulled everything off the top and firgured id go through it all why I had it apart. I replaced the intake gasket but noticed when i took it apart that it wasnt the gasket that the head it self had a small pin hole leak in the very front where the coolant fed into below that upper neck that bolts to the intake manifold. I patched it with jb weld/ quick steel/ and rtv. Yes I know it wont last but just for the time being until I figure out the main issue. Replaced the plugs with motocraft plugs checked all my coils for grime and corrosion or what not and they all seemed fine and cleaner than expected. replaced the gaskets and threw it all back together. I also cleaned out the EGR and IAC with air and brake cleaner etc.
Blew all my lines out with air and everything seemed fine. I also replaced my DPFE sensor. Started it up ran fine at idle for like 5 min no coolant leaks or anything so I thought I was golden then about 500 ft through the neighborhood on a test drive the exact same misfire came back doing the same thing with the idle etc. I'm going to check my fuses tonight but I'm starting to think that maybe when I plugged in that wrong wire adapter for the trailer that I may have screwed up something with the PCM. Only because the lights were all out of wack and literally the next morning I started having these issues. I'm lost if its not a fuse. I would really hate to buy a PCM and not need it especially after all the parts I've bought and not needed already.
The vacuum lines all seemed fine and intact as well with no cracks or leaks.
I would like to do the high idle mod with my 2006 F-350 using the upfitter switches. I've seen a couple of threads about this but they are not real clear to me and don't mention the 2006.
View 14 RepliesMy '01 recently seized up and a buddy determined it was the AC pump. Replaced the belt with the bypass version. A month later, I moved across the state to Iowa. A couple weeks into living here I turned the truck on and it was idling really high (about 2500-3000) but would settle down to around 1100 when put in gear. However, shifting into gear is causing a progressively worse "jump" into gear. Hadn't really had the money or the time to take it in so I let it mostly sit unless I absolutely needed the truck.
Today, the idle is still high and does seem to cycle a bit in that it will rev up close to 3000 then settle back down around 2200 or so and then rev back up again and so on. I backed it down the drive into the sun for a little warmth and it darn near jumped a foot when I shifted. I turned the heater on defrost so I could clear the windshield and absolutely nothing came out.
I can't get into a garage for a few days to get it hooked up for diagnostics. So I thought I'd try here. My research leads me to think part of my problem may be a vacuum leak and/or maybe a sensor somewhere.
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The problem with my truck is not that its regen'ing too often, the problem is that its STUCK in regen cycle. For the past 4-5 days my truck has been going into regen about 1-2 min after i start driving it, every single time i start her up. If i start my truck in the morning and let it warm up for a few min, i come out and my truck is idling higher then normal and has an increased exhaust smell, but when i aply the brake the idle goes back to normal. Then i start driving up the street and BAM "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up and the and immediately the sound of the exhaust and induction changes and it sounds like sputtering/knocking.
Sometimes the the engine will flutter in decel or shutdown. HORRIBLE gas mileage, Reduced engine response and power, and white smoke is cooler temps. Basically all of the normal signs of a regen cycle, am i wrong? Im pretty sure its either a dpf sensor or possibly something wrong with the DPF? I haven't had one problem with my 2010 besides an egr valve and she has 167k miles and is completely stock and im very happy with my truck! 2010 6.4L
I am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.
Seems like my truck won't move at 4x4 when getting into and out of parkings. Combination of low speed and turning feels like I am fighting the truck and need to apply more power to get it moving and then there are strange noises.
Is this normal behavior from 4x4 system? I think it is but just want to make sure that constant switching between 4x4 and 2x4 is normal. I was just to AWD cars before that.
My truck was involved in an accident and required a replacement front axle be installed due to damage to the housing. The truck was in four wheel drive when my wife got T-boned and drove up over the median twice to avoid a head on. The shop that did the insurance work said they replace the axle with a low mileage used unit, but since then the hub switches aren't working correctly.
I have taken it to them 4+ times to look at the issue and I keep telling them that the driver's side hub switch won't release, but I keep getting it back with the same problem. The most recent fix they came up with was to replace switches and electrical components. I am thinking that a vacuum leak in the hub may be to blame. I am taking the truck back to them again this afternoon as the 1 year warranty on the repairs is up next week.