Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2015 - Bad Intermittent Vibration While Idling?
Aug 10, 2016
My CC 2015 6.2 has a pretty annoying vibration when stopped at red lights, etc. isn't always there but is pretty frequent. Dealer says it is normal for the truck. I disagree. I am not sure how bad it was vibrating when the dealer had it.
Think of having a subwoofer in your truck and how it will rattle the doors,etc. seems to be behind the driver seat, coming from underneath. All stock truck.
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I just purchased a new 2015 F250 SC 8ft bed 4X4 2 weeks ago. I am experiencing a vibration on soft acceleration (I feel it through the floor), by that I mean when there is power going through the driveway, not coasting. I plan on making an appointment with the dealer. New F250 SC LB 4x4 truck.
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I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
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2015 6.7L Super Duty ... I bought this truck 74,000 miles and almost two years ago. About 6 months ago it developed a vibration and a very hard shaking of the steering wheel when (so far) turning to the left. First began when, from a dead stop at a red light, I turned left onto an uphill I-41 on-ramp. Scared the crap out of me and I had to pull over to a dead stop to get it to stop. Happened several times but only on this ramp. Local Ford dealer checked it out 2 oil changes ago and couldn't find anything wrong. Now, 2 weeks ago it did it on the highway at 65 mph on a slow, 80-ish degree and downhill turn on a 4 lane highway in Milwaukee. Again had to almost stop for the wildly shaking steering wheel to return to 'normal.' Am taking truck back to same dealer this Wednesday for it's next oil change and they will check it out again. I pull a 37 foot, 15K pound 5th wheeler and don't need to lose control at 70 mph!!!!!
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My 2015 F-350 Super Duty has a noticeable vibration between 5 and 15 mph when accelerating with my 5th wheel. The 5th wheel is heavy--around 14000 pounds. The pin weight is heavy--around 3000 pounds. The Owner's Manual says on page 191 "When driving with a trailer or payload, a slight vibration or shudder may be present due to the increased payload weight..." (This was brought to my attention by my dealer.)
Seeing the thousands of F-250 and F-350 Fords pulling 5th wheels out there on the road, I wonder how many have this "slight vibration or shudder" and what they have done about it.
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I was wondering if there is a aftermarket product to give my truck a more Rumble when starting and idling.
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I am new to Super Dutys but i love them! Altho mine is not being so nice. It has the 5.4 in it. When its idling it has a stumble to its idle with a pop every now and then out the exhaust. It revs fine when its first started. If i pull out on to the road and start away easy its ok a slight miss but if i put the throttle down its just falls on its face. But if i get it up to cruising speed its ok as well. But even at cruising speed more then 1/8 throttle and it starts missing and falling on its face. What it could be? It smells like its running lean as well.
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Any such system in which they can take the key out of the ignition while leaving the vehicle running? I'd like to be able to do this for security purposes of my brand new 2015 250 if I have to run into a store or something of the like. I don't like the idea of leaving the key in the ignition and locking the doors as anyone could break the window and drive off with the truck.
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I have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.
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What are the main differences between the F-350 and the F-450?
I see now that you can get the wide track front axle on the F-350 as well.
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On my way into work this morning, all the warning lights came on, along with the check engine wrench. My display was showing that I was overheating and the gauges stopped working. While this was happening, there was no noticeable change in the way the truck was performing.
After about a minute or two, the warning lights shut off and the gauges worked again as normal. The gauges did not show that the truck was overheating at that time. Another few minutes went by and the same thing happened again. Then the gauges came on and the warning lights shut off for the second time, it did not happen again for my 10 minute ride to work. On my way home this evening, this did not happen again.
The truck seems to be charging and the battery seems to holding a large as well. The truck is a 2015 F350 XLT 6.2 with about 9700 miles on it.
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Recently bought a 2015 f250 xlt.....very impressed with it. Only thing is the wheel feel and look to small. What is the largest size i can run stock? Will 35/12.5 fit on stock 17 wheels or should i just spring for aftermarket rims at the same time? Also exhaust options for the 6.2? Remember, i need load range e!
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Just did my first oil change on my 2015 Super Duty 6.2 engine. I got the Fram filter the book called for, a PH-2. There's goobs of room for the longer filter. Would that be the PH8A? The book is about to trying to figure the comparable long vs short filter. Why do they insist on those short filters when a full size will fit? My Dodge Ram Hemi was the same way.
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I have a 2015 SD with only 4100 miles on it. This has happened to me twice. Both times, traveling slowly at idle or just above. Anyway, tried to give it a little gas, and -----nothing. Lightly pumped the throttle a couple of quick times and back on line. The motor didn't die, but there was no response to the throttle at all. The first time, I thought maybe it was something I did. Then it doesn't happen for a month and a half and then again, in heavy traffic in the rain. Haven't had my first service yet, and you can bet I'll tell them about it. Almost felt like a two-stroke that had loaded up?
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I have a 2015 f250 extended cab, gas with 31000 miles. Its a work truck but its my day truck as well so lots of easy miles too. Checked the brakes today thinking it may be time for pads and found lots of grooves on all rotors, pads have lots of life yet. Is this common on the 2015? did ford give us low quality rotors? should I replace with less aggressive pads? I have had no braking problems, noise or pulsing. I thought I could put a second set of pads on the original rotors.
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My current truck is an early 99 F250, 7.3L diesel, CC 4x4(manual shift transaxle) auto transmission. It is basically stock, with the exception of a hutch/harpoon and a new fuel pump over the winter, an AIS intake. I have a magnaflow exhaust kit in the garage along with bellowed up pipes but have not installed them yet.
Here is my issue. Several times over the last 2 years, the truck will pull a load, or long trip, and with complete randomness, the engine will feel like it has shut off, there is usually a jerk or two, and the truck "restarts" itself and continues on like nothing happened. Last year we drove 1.5 hrs from home with the boat in tow, driving up Snoqualmie pass, and it died completely, no restart. We had to be towed home. It started right up at the shop, so no real clue of what happened.
When this happened, I had the fuel system checked for pressure and replaced the engine fuel filter, and all was good. I also had the Cam position sensor replaced/updated to the new grey sensor. Shortly after, I had the minor jerk/stall occur again, so I replaced the fuel pump and did the hutch/harpoon mod to ensure there wasn't an intermittent fuel pressure loss and that the in tank filters were not clogged.
Last weekend, i pulled my boat to Oregon, and the same "hiccup" happened as I was about 1.5 hrs into my trip. it was fine after that the rest of the 4 hr trip. We also drove back the same route and had no problems.
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I've got a '08 F250 XLT that the cruise control has become intermittent. It works most of the time but at times it will "go out to lunch" and not do anything. I've taken the controls from the wheel and didn't see any gummed up coke spills or anything there. It may not be anything but twice when it failed while on a trip I pulled over and shut the truck down. Started it up and the cruise would go back to working. Once I did this and it went back to working only to shut off in about 2 seconds but I was able to engage it again and it kept working. When it stops working there is no green indicator on the dash either.
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I have a 2001 7.3 ford the seal in the turbo went and oil went in the exhaust. lots of oil like 10 quarts. I had a rebuilt turbo installed ran great for 2 weeks then one day out of the blue started idling rough and then downward from there no power stalling etc I have my super chip scanner it read dtcs of 1249 478 1211 and 238. Is it possible the muffler is plugged with oil? or is it and ipr? 193000 miles....
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I have a 2013 f350 with the 6.2L gas and automatic transmission...when it sits idling in gear or park it starts to whine or squeal for about 30 seconds then stops and starts again. it makes a horrible sound if you shut the truck off while it's making the noise... Ford has had the truck for 5 weeks and checked the motor for vacuum leaks and changed the torque converter...but it's still doing it but less frequently now but according to them it's louder. I have a video but don't know how to upload it. if you go to YouTube and search ford raptor whine it shows a raptor making the same noise also.
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My 2012 f250 6.7 has what sounds like a chain spinning when idling when you give it fuel it quiets down.
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My tachometer hangs out around the 600 RPM spot when I first start my truck, but lately it will end up dropping to zero when idling, and then bounce up to about the 200 RPM point when accelerating. Its not the Cam Positioning Sensor (I had that happen with my 99 7.3) and this truck runs great. I am thinking it could be at the tach.
Question is: Where does the Tachometer signal generate and does the PCM do anything with it before it sends the signal to the Tachometer? The reason for focusing on the Tach is since the engine runs and idles fine, then that tells me the PCM is receiving the correct signal from the engine and making changes accordingly. I read about a 5.4 gas engine with rain issues, but the only issues going on here is extreme cold (tonight, -15). I keep the truck garaged and when I go out, it is for purpose and then return home to a heated garage.
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