Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2014 - Within 2500 Miles Cruise Goes Out?
Jun 1, 2014
2014 f250 with 2500...My cruise went out on my new platinum. Cruise symbol comes on, goes green when I hit set but will not hold speed. I know this would be an easy warranty fix but here's my problem. My regular local dealer, which I bought my 3 fleet truck and all personal autos from didn't get this sale. In fact he was 5k higher then the dealer 120 miles away and I brought him written proof. He was very angry and down right rude when I nicely told him I couldn't pass up 5k. He told me that was just bad business by the other dealer and hung up on me.
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Came over the "mountain" tonight elevation is 1,054 (Snickers Gap) anyway cruise was set to 62mph and the truck kept downshifting. Got to 2nd gear about 5500 rpms and was trying to hold 62mph. I turned off cruise and it stayed in second and picked up speed still in second, I finally tried some braking and some acceleration with the gas pedal and it shifted up through to 6th. Truck has 6.2L and 3,300 miles on it. I wasn't really afraid of wrecking or anything but I was convinced it was going to redline in 2nd, it didn't but it was really loud. I was about 10-15 seconds from throwing it in neutral.
Additional info: I have driven this road for 14 years, with cruise control on in everything from a geo metro, (2) different 2010 f-150's 4.6 and a 5.4, ford escape hybrid, and many other vehicles. This is probably the 10th time I have taken the new F-250 in to the city and back it has never reacted this way before, but I have notice it downshifts more than I expect in other situations as well.
So is the downshifting what others are seeing?
6.2L Supercab, longbed 3.73 gears.
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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I have an 04 6.0 F250. I am having a shaking between 1500 and 2500 RPM around 45 - 55 MPH. I have no guesses what is calling this, but the truck runs fine otherwise.
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Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
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I have an 06 6.0. I have replace icp and ipr. I had a car tube with an hole so I replaced the tube connectors. No dtcs are present. The truck will crank and run fine but after thirty minutes of running it dies, it dies faster if I put it in gear and drive it, if I move it back to neutral it starts running ruff and I lose throttle response sometimes completely and sometimes on a minute or two. I also fixed a fuel leak around the 6mm plug on pump, replaced both fuel filters.
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Did a 1600 mile trip and noticed that the cruise 2x would just shut off. Most of the time tho it ran fine. Every once in a while when I would stop for gas and turn off the motor the cruise would not come on at all when we headed back out. Sometimes when it did this it would not come back on till I shut off the truck and then restart. Other times it would work after 20 or so miles.
When it did shut off or not come on, I would try turning it on and off, mashing the buttons HARD, What to do? Or should I just take it to the dealer and be done with it?
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02 E450 Super Duty V10, C class a motorhome, 29000 miles. Cruise stopped working a month or so back. I searched this forum and managed to fix it with the info provided. It turned out to be the pressure switch on the master cylinder, the recall had been done. I replaced the pressure switch and the harness with an aftermarket one from the local auto parts store. It worked well for about 200 miles, it knocked off again on our road trip last week. It was working on the road and we stopped for breakfast and it didn't come on again, no light in the dash or anything.
When I ran the internal diagnostics on the first repair all the lights would flash when the buttons were pressed and the servo would cycle through at the end of the test as it should, based on the diagnostic instructions. This time when I run the diagnostic test the light will flash when I first turn the switch on (holding the off button down) and when I push the on the button but will not flash when I press the other 3 buttons.
I have not been able to find a wiring diagram for this particular truck, I've found 6 or so but none of them match my fuse boxes under the hood and dash.
I have no trouble lights on in the dash CEL or ABS. I'm at a loss what direction to take from here.
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I have had this truck for about 3 weeks now, and twice on hot days (95F) it wouldn't start. Both times I had not driven the truck that day, so this would be a "cold start." No "idiot lights" came on to give me any indications. The Haynes Manual does me no good on this. Other than this issue, the truck runs and drives great.
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As of yesterday, Ford has just informed me that my problem is not their problem. The engine and a turbo on my 2012 Ford F-350 Super Duty went south at 114,000 miles; 14,000 miles north of the warranty. The cost of repairs from the dealership is high. I don't have that kind of money, especially since I ran my own transportation business with my truck and have been effectively put out of a job since the end of October, 2014.
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I have a newer 2012 f250 that i souls like to disable cruise control on, can this be done with auto ingenuity, our will the dealer have to do it with ids?
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New problem with my 99 f-250 superduty supercab 4x4. Cruise control does not work. Checked all fuses and all are good. No cruise light or speed cont light . Where do I start? What do I need to look for? Where do I look?
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I've got a '08 F250 XLT that the cruise control has become intermittent. It works most of the time but at times it will "go out to lunch" and not do anything. I've taken the controls from the wheel and didn't see any gummed up coke spills or anything there. It may not be anything but twice when it failed while on a trip I pulled over and shut the truck down. Started it up and the cruise would go back to working. Once I did this and it went back to working only to shut off in about 2 seconds but I was able to engage it again and it kept working. When it stops working there is no green indicator on the dash either.
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My 1999 SD was originally a Work Truck without cruise. I'd like to add cruise of some sort (factory or after market), but also trying to keep the cost and difficulty factors low.
Have any of you SD drivers ever done this and if so, what you went through?
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Suddenly my cruise control dropped out. With some investigation I'm pretty sure it's that sensor or switch stuck to on position. Brake light is on. Checked the brake system and everything works well. Fluid is full all 4 pads replaced 2 days ago. Plenty brake power.
The question is: how can I bypass that switch to get my cruise control back? I see 4 wires coming out of the switch: red, blue, green, red/orange, green/purple. How do I do it?
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So, I've now had my 2015 F250 6.7 Diesel for about 2 weeks and I just turned over 1000 miles (damn I love driving this truck). And, I'm dying to find out if my mpg experience coincides with any other truck. With no load I am consistently getting right at 22.5 mpg at 70 miles per hour. With all in town driving and no load I'm holding right at 15 mpg. And I've noticed something else that seems odd. I'm actually getting a little worse mileage at 60 and 65 than I do at 70 miles per hour. What is going on there? Do these engines get a little better mileage as they get more miles on them?
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This F250 has 60130 miles on it. A week ago the transmission would not engage and we had to have it towed to the dealership, so we called roadside assistance. Finally getting the report from the dealership we are verbally told that the transmission pump failed and the clutches have burnt.
The work is submitted for warranty. Last night we get a phone call that they are denying the warranty because the truck has been neglected/abused. So I asked for the service paperwork. The service paperwork states, SEALS FAILED ALLOWING CLUTCHES TO FAIL, NEEDS CLUTCHES, SEALS, AND PUMP TO REPLACE.
When I call to get clarity on the definition of neglect and the justification, I am told the inspector was shown burnt clutches and a muddy truck. When I ask about the pump and seals, I am told the inspector was never shown 1 failed seal, and the pump was fully assembled and did not appear defective.
So I call the dealership back and ask for an explanation and they tell me they will research it and get back to me. When they call me back their story is not just that the clutches failed, nothing else and that they are just replacing the pump and seals because it is recommended. The notes given by the technician to the warranty folks now state that the clutches burnt and the truck was muddy so he knows we abused it.
It would slip and then knock into gear. Transmission was service 5000 miles ago by dealer, we were told it was good, in good working order, fluid looked great, no issues.
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Just had my truck in for an oil change at dealership and wanted them to check for oil leak seeing as I started getting drops on my driveway. When I pick up the truck they told me the front crank seal was leaking and possibly the rear main seal. Front was gonna be 650 bucks and the rear was gonna be 1020. Ended up taking truck to local diesel shop and they replaced front crank seal for 300 and said the rear main looked fine. Tech also told me the old seal looked worse than some that came out of engines with 3 times as many miles. 6.4L ...
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Been searching but can't find a clue. I replaced my steering gear box. Went fine, but after starting back up. My alarm goes off, my cruise or horn doesn't work and my air bag is giving a code 32.
Is there a ground wire or something I could of missed when installing the gear box?
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Just noticed today that my cruise control on/off button is sticking. Push to off it stays pushed off, push it up to on and it stays up so i must physically center it myself. Is there a way to remove the button and take it apart to clean and regrease the contacts so it doesnt stick? Kinda dumb actually since i might have used it eight or ten times since buying the truck new....
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Cruise won't power up. Tried entering diagnostics but did not get any flashes. By-passed switch on master cylinder, did not make any difference. Horn honks. Brake lights work correctly.
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