Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2014 - Pulling To Either Side When Brake Applied?
May 16, 2016
My truck is intermittently pulling to either side when braking. Sometimes its the right, sometimes its the left, sometimes its hard, sometimes its soft.
Its a relatively new truck. 21K miles - 2014 F-250 Super Duty 6.7 Powerstroke.
I don't want to go to the dealer yet, because its emissions deleted, tuned, and lifted. I don't really want to hear their bull rhetoric.
I have unplugged the ABS sensors for a few minutes while running, plugged them back in and its gone away for a period of time, but now its back again.
Just trying to figure out what the problem is and see if its something I can just fix myself.
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Well just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?
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My 02 F250 has me baffled. For a while the truck would pull to the right when hitting the brakes and occasionally the brake would get hot. To try and remedy this I put a new caliper and hose on the right front corner a new hose on the left front side. The truck still pulled right and the pedal got spongy even after bleeding the brakes 3 times. I got to checking the rest of the brakes and found a seized slide pin on the left rear. Got that fixed and still pulling right with a soft pedal. I've checked all of the sliders and none are seized. I am lost and I cant stand the soft pedal!
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2014 Super Duty F350 CC SWB 4x4 20" rims FX4 Gas. Did some measurements today and it turns out the right rear is 1 inch higher than the left rear. The right front is 1/2 inch higher than the left front. Is this normal?
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My 2014 F-350 SRW always seemed to have spongy feeling brakes since day one and the e-brake has never been set-up to be very tight. Even though my truck has less than 25,000 miles on it, I'm half tempted to power bleed brakes to try to get a better brake pedal. All I know is that if I press the brake pedal on my '82 F-350 SRW as hard as I need to press the one my 2014 SD, it would try to put me through the windshield.
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I am looking at a 2014 f250, if has all of the options I want on a truck except the brake controller. Can a brake controller be added to this vehicle ? is it already wired for and do you just remove the blank plastic and pop in ? one ?
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I tow a 5th wheel with my 2014 F-250 that has an factory TBC. I just installed Electric over Hydraulic disc brakes on my 5th wheel and was trying to see if there was a setting I needed to change on the TBC to tell it that is now E/H versus E. In the Information section of the dashboard display it talks about the controller actuating electric drum brakes but the manual talks about it being able to do electric AND E/H. What I need to do here...if anything?
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only have clearance lights at plug no output for brake and turn signals
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I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
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Just had my tires rotated (which I do ever 5,000 miles) and an alignment done. Alignment appears to be in spec, but she is pulling/drifting to the right. Dealer suggested I get the tires cross-rotated, which I had done yesterday, but she is still drifting/pulling... not sure the difference. Pretty sure I have to get it back to the dealer to address, but just looking for other possible causes to potentially prevent that trip.
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Buddy has a problem on his '03 F-450 cab and chassis. When he turns on a turn signal, everything is OK...but it goes out when he applies the brakes. Also, the brake failure light is lit up on the dash, despite the brakes being fine. These problems happened at the same time. I'm think a ground, but not sure where to look.
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1999 f250 5.4L... Its done this 3 or 4 times now. Driving and it starts pulling to the right pretty bad, almost like if the front passenger tire was messed up or something. Today it did it, after I let it sit for a few min, then drove back to the house, it drove straight. Also, when it pulls to the right, its very sluggish, as if I'm pulling a very heavy load. From a stop, it doesn't even go until I hit the gas, and at that its very sluggish, sorts feels like if you drive off and forget the ebrake is on.
Also I've noticed some burning on the passenger side which I've read is probably the head gasket. I can see the oil dripping on the exhaust, causing the smoke. Also, my CEL just came on, with code P0401 "powertrain exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected". Recently changed the plugs because it was running and idling a little rough.
At this point in wondering if the pulling issue could be something with the brakes, when I'm driving, it sounds like something is rubbing, I haven't looked at the brakes yet but I'm likely going to do new pads and rotors all around soon anyways.
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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The pads were replaced 5000 miles ago. Today the truck is acting hard to go, brakes are squealing, and I noticed a hot brake smell. I got home, grabbed a remote thermometer gun and the front rotors are 130 degrees, the back ones are 650 and 700 degrees! Super hot. I'm going to NAPA for new calipers and pads. I hope that fixes it.
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I have a pedal pulsation, steering wheel shimmy, and pull to the right when the brakes are applied in my truck. It is a 2009 F250 4x4 gas V8. I just replaced the pads, rotors, and calipers on the front and that's when the problem started. It definitely gets worse with speed too. I replaced the calipers because the right one had seized up and the left one looked to be on the way. There are no odd noises and the wheel bearing doesn't feel like there is any play in it. What this could be?
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My 2008 ford f250 SD Powerstroke has a bad front passenger side brake rub/ dragging after offroading before off roading just rubbed a little now it drags a lot. what do i need to fix.
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I have a '03 F350 that I can't seem to solve the brakes vibrating when applied. Replaced front rotors a couple weeks ago. I still have a vibration when I apply the brakes. What am I missing? I didn't replace the back rotors, but maybe I should have. On the passenger front, the inside pad was almost gone and the outside pad was in good shape. I greased the pins before I replaced the pads the last time, but the inside still wore much faster. I also blew out the rear brake line last week and spent Saturday bending a new line and replacing that so the brakes were bled when I had to replace that. I don't feel the pulsing in the pedal, but the truck shakes pretty good when I hit the brakes. What else should I be checking if the rotors are new and the pads are new and the pins have been lubed and the brakes have been bled?
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Truck blows smoke like a blown NASCAR engine occasionally when pulling heavy load....pull over, cool off and resume driving. Its as if it never happened. All fluid levels are in range and truck drives fine minus load. My last f350 5.4 did same thing at about 200k miles. My local ford dealer tells me I'm the only guy on earth this Has happened to.
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My 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
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So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
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I have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
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