Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2014 - Front Body Mount Bushing Replacement
Jun 26, 2017
The driver side front body mount bushing on my 2014 is gone which has the grill sitting on the bumper. I started to replace it, but the bolt is sized to the nut. ran off about 1/2 inch and that is it, it will not tighten or loosen anymore.
I cut the head off the bolt, but can not get the body high enough to remove the old bushing so i can cut the nut off flush with the rad support. Now I am trying to get the air filter box out so i can cut the top of the "nut cage" off to remove the bolt and nut out the top. but i can not figure out how it is held in.
I have the intake disconnected and the filter hat off, overflow tank hose disconnected, and two bolts holding the whole thing to the fender out, but it will still not budge. What am I missing here?
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i have a 2008 f250 4x4 i need to replace the drive side front lower body bushing and i can not get the pressed on bushing to come out what is the easiest way to get this to come apart i tried using a 4 ft pry bar and i could not get it to pop free.
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2001 Ford Explorer Sport (not sport trac) 4.0l 5r55e 2wd.. Ok so I picked up a sweet deal of an explorer yesterday.
Sure enough I get her home and find out she needs both the rear body mount bushings replaced. Ok no sweat so I go to autozone...they cant find them... Ok I look in the book for replacement procedure... Nothing, To YouTube! ...nope nothing there either.
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Need recommendation for replacement body mount bushing. Surprised to see the drivers side shredded. Poly replacement?
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I have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
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Any good way to install and mount a light bar without drilling into the front bumper or grill? I have a 32" LED bar I want to mount between the top of the bumper and bottom of the grill, but the mounts aren't ideal for where I want to put the light.
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I have a 200 f250 v10 srw 4x4.. I've replaced the auto front lockers with warn premium manuals. I cannot get power to the front wheels. The lockers appear fine. I hear the actuator function when I activate 4x4. Whats the possibility of a bad transfer case or front diff and how do i check? I've searched but there seems to be a lot of non-answers.
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2008 6.4L F250 Crew. I just recently had a new radiator installed while the cab was off for an oil cooler change. I noticed that my lower front bushings are gone and need to be replaced.
I thought it would be an easy, pull the bolts drop the lower bushing and reinstall. Looks like they don't come out so easily. Is there a trick to getting the lower mounts/bushings separated from the uppers?
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I have a lot of play in my front suspension and steering components. At first I thought it was my old tires, so I had them replaced and that worked, but there is still quite a lot of play. I would describe it at loose steering.
I went to get an alignment and they said they couldn't do it because of too much play in the tie rod end.
So that is going to get replaced. What else is down there, bushing wise, that I should replace to eliminate play and rejuvenate my steering?
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I can't figure out how to get my front brake rotors off to replace them. I removed the caliper and thought the rotors should just come right off but they didn't? I then pulled the hub out and there was a retaining ring with a good size nut behind it , but you shouldn't have to remove the hubs to remove the brake rotors should you?
The stats of the truck are 04 f250 4wd w/manual hubs!
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Are just the bearings serviceable/replaceable or is the only option to get entire wheel hub assembly?
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Any good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
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Question. My Son borrowed my 2006 4-wheel F-350 and broke down in Vermont. 8 hrs from me. Told me he heard some noises from the left front and then the abs light came on. I had him jack up the front and check for bearing play in the left front. Alas, He said between 1/4" and 1/2" of play. I bought the new hub and bearing assembly to drive up there with tomorrow morning. The locking hub will come right off. I just replaced them 4 months ago. I will be bringing a crap load of tools, but anything specific i should bring? I wont have torches so I am hoping the hub will brake free.
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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I own a 1999 F250 super duty and have the front end apart to service the u joints , I noticed that i have bad axle stub needle bearings on one side. I was wondering what is involved in taking those out and replacing them, it looks like they are held in place with some type of spanner nut. My next question :Would it be worth the cost just to replace the whole bearing hub assembly? The truck has 134000 miles on it.
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So I have to replace the front unit bearings on my 2004 f250 4wd. My question is, which thread pattern I have, fine or coarse? I have read that the early models, 99-02 have coarse threads. Afterwards they are fine. I am going to order online as they are cheaper than the local parts store. I have the Timken part numbers for either thread pattern.
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I have a 2011 f250 sd that I removed the front grill and noticed 3 of the clips that hold the lower part of the grill in (bolts on the top) are broke. I went to the local Ford dealer for the clips and was told I have to buy the whole complete grille for it. The parts breakdown doesn't show the clips sold individually from the grille.
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I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
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I got a 2014 F250 SD w/ 6.7 diesel. Since if owned the truck the front bumper has slowly started to sag at both driver and passenger side. Dealer says there is no adjustments for it.
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Do a 2014 f350 front bumper will fit on a 2001 f350? Wanting to know if the bolt holes and body lines will match up? I put a 2014 rear bumper on and it bolted right up.
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I need to mount a LED strobelight to the roof of a F250 2016. not really liking to drill a hole in the roof of a new truck I thought of running it thru the existing wiring from the brake light above the rear window. Looking for info if there's a hot wire in there that I could get power from & than could just run 1 wire to a switch. How to run the wiring ????
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