Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2014 F250 Shudder Around 40 - 45 MPH
Jul 16, 2014
I have a 14 F250 Superduty with 6k miles, it has started a shudder around 40-45. It only does it briefly if I let off the gas and then accelerate it goes away.
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My '11 F250 stock w/airbags has a mild shudder when I let off the gas approaching a stop light. If I air the bags up to about 20 lbs it appears to go away, or at least is undetectable. I don't notice this if travelling at a higher rate of speed on a highway but only when slowing down from a lower speed (<40 mph). What this could be?
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2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
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Just moved into the 250 from years of 150's. Now have 98 miles and read that the tran would have noise but normal while breaking in.
whats normal, not used to this much Clunk while changing from P to D ect. More noise than used too I guess.
3.73 gears
2014 F250, 6.2 gas 2wd....
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I just picked up a 14 F-250 with 6.2 engine. the shocks are leaking, and before I order new ones I want get opinions. I was looking at Bilstein 5100 series. 24-186025 for the rear, and 24-186018 for the front. are these the best, or should i get something else.
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I am looking at a 2014 f250, if has all of the options I want on a truck except the brake controller. Can a brake controller be added to this vehicle ? is it already wired for and do you just remove the blank plastic and pop in ? one ?
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I got a 2014 F250 SD w/ 6.7 diesel. Since if owned the truck the front bumper has slowly started to sag at both driver and passenger side. Dealer says there is no adjustments for it.
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My 2014 f250 4x4 crew cab with 6.2l gasser only gets about 7.5-8 mpg at 65 mph while pulling my 27' bumper pull travel trailer. I know that thing is basically a wall trapping the air but is there anything I can do to gain a couple mpg more? I can average about 15 mpg at 65 mph without the trailer on the highway.
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Why does my engine fan run when truck is cold? I hate it, anoying winding sound. It will run that way for up to ten miles sometimes. My other trucks never did this. This is the 6.2 gas.
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I bought the wife a truck a few weeks ago and she said the heater wasn't working well and was noisy. So I hoped in it at lunch today and she was right, barely any heat output and its noisy coming from behind the passenger airbag.
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2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.
First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.
After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.
Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded
To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.
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I have (2) 2014 f250's both have given the trailer disconnected message randomly from the day they were new. Dealer says everything is with in specification. I just live with it now but something must be wrong with the design. Only does it when no trailer is connected an might be worse when it rains. Might have to hit the ok button every 10 minutes so on bad days.
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How to do this, or have had it done? I do have 35x12.50x18's on it. I did go to the tire center here in my town to have them reprogram it but only worked for a few to a week cant remember.
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I had a 2014 F-250 I bought new. Absolutely loved the truck. Things got tight so I decided to sell it yesterday. I'm now looking at a 2005 F-250 with 113k miles. It's got a lift, 37" tires, DPF delete, pretty sure the EGR delete but not sure exactly what to look for under the hood. A ton of LED light bars, SCT tuner, I was told its bulletproofed by a dealer, and it's a king ranch. It runs great. I plan on having a diesel mechanic look it over but here are my concerns. It does have a slight bit of blow by coming from dipstick. Very little. Also a slight oil leak that looks like it's coming from the bell housing so maybe rear seal?
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My truck is back in the shop for a third time for the same problem and the dealer is really clueless about anything. Here are the alarms I get when trying to start( Low Oil Pressure, Service AdvanceTrac, Engine Overtemp, Wrench Icon and Starting System Fault.)
When trying remote start nothing happens then the horns honks after a couple of minutes.
Below is the timeline and a video.
July 21, 2015 - Vehicle would not start, multiple alarms going off and dashboard has all icons showing. Towed vehicle in around 0700. Truck stayed in the shop overnight. Resolutions was told that the codes was reset and battery cable was tighten. I ask why the battery was loose when it was just in the shop for routine maintenance and it was signed off that it was good to go. I also told the service representative that I felt this didn't not solve my problem as it was just a quick fix.
Sept 4, 2015 - Problem is back, same symptoms, truck not starting, alarms going off, dashboard has all icons showing. Towed vehicle in around 1700. Vehicle stay in the shop for a week and was picked up around 1800 on Sept 11, 2015. Service representative stated they replaced the PCM and reprogrammed the keys.
Sept 12, 2015 - Yep you guess it, same problem and not even a full 24 hours from when the vehicle was towed to the dealership again. Truck wont start, same symptoms, alarms going off, all icons showing. Towed vehicle in around 0900. Vehicle would start now but check engine light is on. I have an inclination that all that will be done is to reset the codes.
2014 F250 6.7 Starting issues - YouTube
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I tow a 5th wheel with my 2014 F-250 that has an factory TBC. I just installed Electric over Hydraulic disc brakes on my 5th wheel and was trying to see if there was a setting I needed to change on the TBC to tell it that is now E/H versus E. In the Information section of the dashboard display it talks about the controller actuating electric drum brakes but the manual talks about it being able to do electric AND E/H. What I need to do here...if anything?
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I've had the truck for almost a year. It had 2900mi when I bought it. It's got 18k on it now. A few weeks ago I stopped to get the mail and the dash started going crazy throwing every warning you could think of. I got back in and all the codes were gone. I figured it was a fluke until last week. It did it again. I let it run for a few minutes and decided to turn it off. It wouldn't start back up right away. After about 20min, it started and I drove straight to the dealer.
They had it for 2 days, cleared all the codes and couldn't replicate it. They said the codes were U codes and not real codes?? The next morning it did the same thing again. I took it back and after 3 days, they said they could only think that my AMP Powersteps were the cause. They disconnected the steps and wanted to keep it for a few more days. I said no and picked it back up. It made it 2 days and I got the codes again.
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My 2014 F-250 is having a repeat problem with an intermittent cell engine light. About 10000 miles ago it happened, and they changed out the egr cooler. Saying it was gummed up with soot. Problem just started up again. Light will stay on for about 3 or 4 restarts then sir off on its own. It's this a known issue with the 6.7? Is there a way to prevent it?
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I'm trying to locate the part number (and a replacement) for the plastic piece that covers the top of the tailgate (when its shut) next to the step. It's about a 12 to 16 inch long piece of plastic which has some broken tabs on it, so everytime I drop the tailgate, it either flies out or starts to... I checked the fische online and I don't even see it in the picture. I did find some one-piece parts called "tailgate spoiler cap" but I didn't find any to fit a 2014 F-250 with the step on the tailgate. Should I just tell the wife to go hot-glue it ?
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