Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2014 F250 - Indicator Showed 5th Gear But Trans Feels Like In Neutral
Apr 16, 2015
I have a 2014 f250 with the 6.2 and just turned 13,800 miles. I tend to drive in tow haul a lot, while not towing because I like the shift pattern better and saves on brakes while stopping. Last night I slowed to a stop sign, came to complete stop. Went to take off slowly like always and the truck was like in neutral, looked down and the indicator showed 5th gear. Let off and watched it go to 1st and took off no problem. This all took only half a second or so, seemed fine after that. What might of happened?
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I recently purchased a 04 f250 with the 6.0l powerstroke. I drove it for about 3 weeks now, Ive put my trailer behind it with small loads and just today tried to use the tow/haul button. When you go to pull out the tranny never shifts from first gear?? Its pulls and runs fine until you push the buttan and no shifting........
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I have a 99 f250 with some procomp (325s) that are 12.5 wide with a 6in lift my superchip tuner can change the trannys shift points but I am pretty sure a new gear ratio is needed. I dont do a whole lot of off roading with it its mainly my driving around and highway rig whats a good gear ratio that would work for me
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I bought a 2001 7.3L deisil F250 CC short box a year ago. It has an AFE cold air, a 4inch exhaust and an Edge chip in it, Now the tranny was rebuilt a year before I bought it, however I almost instantly noticed a shutter when starting from a stop. One shop said u joints. I replaced them and the carrier with no results. IMHO u joints was a bad diagnosis as it only happens off the line and not through at a certain rpm. When down shifting I find the truck almost goes into to neutral before engaging 2nd gear. I have a 6.0l tranny cooler and my temps get to 215 and above quite easily when towing... 3-6k-lbs. (I try to pull over before that) Also when towing up hills the tranny almost feels like there's a slight grinding. For the first little bit anyway.
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Whenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
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My tranny only goes to 3rd gear in 4x4 lo is that normal? 2014 6.2 xl f250 ....
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I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2 L. While driving the vehicle the exhaust sounds nice and throaty. When I put the truck in neutral and rev it, it's quiet, you can barely hear it. Is this normal?
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My '05 (134k, rwd, V10) has had an occasional issue with stalling when going into neutral. The normal idle speed in park or neutral is 700. In drive or reverse it dips down to 350 or so and then evens out at 500. The stalling is not all the time, perhaps 2 out of 10 shifts. It is slightly worse with the A/C running. Every time it stalls, it records a P0506 error which I then clear out with my ScanGauge II.
I have done some research and have replaced the air filter (super dirty), fuel filter (not sure on how old) and cleaned the MAF tonight. For the MAF, I pulled it from the air tube and gave it a bunch of squirts of MAF cleaner. I did this 3 times letting it dry in between cleanings. I have run a bottle of SeaFoam through it, as well. The idle seems to be very smooth and it pulls my 7k travel trailer without issue. That did get a little better with the new air filter and fuel filter.
I went for a ride tonight and the problem persists. I'm taking it in to have the A/C recharged next week and will have the shop diagnose it. I came across this post which details my issue exactly. The steps are to reprogram the PCM and TCM, and possibly replace the throttle body. Is the reprogram something an independent shop can/should do?
P0506 idle lower than expected on 05 ford f350 v10
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I just bought a 2014 F350 from copart and its about to arrive in florida on a transporter. There is no key and no power (flood damaged) and wheels are turned sideways. I am having the transported meet me at a ford dealer so I can get the key made to remove steering column lock. Once I have this, any way to manually select neutral to take it out of park and roll it off the truck.
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So when I try to kick into 'passing gear' in this '01 f250 5.4l, i get no tranny shift. Whether I'm in tow/haul mode or not.
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I just bought a 95 f250 4x4 with the 460. The guy i bought it from had a trans slipping towed it to the shop when the shop went to pull it in they started it put in gear and engine died. The motor is now tight w no movement either direction with a bar obo it. Is it possible the trans is holding the motor tight? What can I do?
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The other day I had a metal pin fall out from under my dash and hit me on the foot (only reason I would have know if fell out till I clean the truck)
Ever since then the gear selector handle for my transmission has become sloppy and when I go to turn off the truck, I have to hold the arm up to turn key off all the way. I have looked to try and find where it goes and cannot find the location. I have also looked at a blown up parts diagram and cannot find it. Where it goes?
2002 F250 SD V10 with auto...
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Driving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
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I have a 1990 F250 with a 7.5 liter and an E4OD. It starting acting up a couple months ago. Tranny would seemingly go into neutral while on freeway. I figured trans was going out... After reading several threads I've decided to try changing the mlps first, got a new one at the dealer!!!. It is the updated one with the connector on the top. I'm currently waiting on a new pigtail from autozone (the original is in bad shape, wires frayed, insulation missing. Also I think when it started having issues we were having some serious rains, which may have caused this connect to get wet.
I believe a previous owner may have had the trans rebuilt at some point. The connect has 6 wires going in it and when I trace those wires back, two are spliced into one farther up the harness a bit. Looks like one is tied into a wire that goes to the solenoid harness. I'm hoping I can cut and splice the 6 wires into the new pigtail and be good.
For now, while I was under there I decided to pull the solenoid plug as instructed to make access to mlps plug easier... the lock is on the backside almost impossible to get to, I messed the plug up all the way around, but not fubarred. When I pulled the plug out, it was soaked in transmission fluid... Is that normal?
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I have noticed my trans temp gauge needle is dead center of the gauge even on a cold start. I thought my sensor was under the pan so I pulled it and did not see any sensor at all. Is there a external sensor?
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I have a 2006 F250 with the 6.0 PowerStroke and automatic transmission. I just purchased this truck at an auction about a month ago.
Today I notice the transmission is not shifting into overdrive. No warning lights. If I press the tow/haul button in no change but the tow/haul light does come on. If I press it again (to turn it off) the tow/haul light goes out but still the transmission will not shift into overdrive.
This leaves me at about 2000 RPM at 68 MPH. I just had a Ford dealer perform Transmission service last week. (20,000 miles after the last recorded service.)
I am already not happy with the service I received at the dealer so I am really hesitant to take it back to them if it is something not related to the transmission service they performed.
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My dad has a 2006 F-250 5.4 3v that spun a rod bearing at 107,383 miles. He's never been thrilled with the performance of it (told him he should have gotten the 6.0 when he bought the truck new, but why listen to a 15 yr old ). We've been throwing around a couple different ideas for engine swaps since the 5.4 is dead. We scored a 5.4 2V Lightning engine, but after trying to figure out transmission controllers or if we'd be able to tune the stock PCM for the 2v, we've put the project on hold.
Recently, I've been trying to convince him to do a diesel swap over the L-motor. I have a friend selling a cheap 99 7.3 with trans, PCM, harness, intercooler, piping and other misc stuff. Would that harness generally be plug and play with the body of the 06? Would it be more worthwhile to try to find a 6.0 from 05-07 and swap everything over?
I've also been considering a Cummins swap, although I haven't gone much past looking at complete engines on eBay and Craigslist. Would this be the better route, and just get a standalone controller for the 5R110?
So I'm looking for other's opinions. Should we go 7.3, 6.0 or Cummins? Should we stick with gas over diesel? Try to make the Lightning motor work? Or just go back with a stock 5.4 3V? I should say, he won't sell the truck for whatever reason, so he's not worried about resale or anything. We're in Michigan, so we don't have to worry about emissions. And we're fairly mechanically inclined, so I'm not too worried about doing the swaps, however my knowledge on diesels is limited.
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I was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
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I am having some trouble with my 4R100 overheating.
Truck is a 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L with 244k miles on it. According to previous owner, the transmission was replaced around 185/190k but there was no paperwork to prove it.
I recently had a leak from one of transmission lines coming into the bottom of the radiator (the one on the passenger side). I replaced it and topped off the little bit of fluid that leaked out. Last weekend I installed a temp sensor in the transmission and hooked it up to my pillar gauges. The first few days driving with it, the temp was at/around 180 degrees, 25-30 degree outside air, unloaded on the highway averaging 70-75mph.
Today on the way home, the temp got to 180 after 35-40min of driving then continue climbing. I pulled off the highway after 1.5hrs and the temp was almost at 210 degrees. I let it idle for 5-10min and the temp didn't change. I turned it off and let it sit for 15 min. Upon starting it back up, the temp had dropped to 180. I continued driving and the temp climbed back up to 210 within 35 minutes. (65-75mph, 24 degree outside temp, unloaded). Once off the highway I averaged 35-45mph on the back roads to my house. The temp started to drop back towards 180 degrees.
Before I start throwing money at it, and installing a 6.0 cooler etc. I am thinking there is something else wrong here. I am going to look at new lines and replacing/repairing the bypass valve on the transmission. I am driving 2hrs to work each way and thats when the temp really starts to go up. The fluid doesnt smell burnt, its still nice and red. I am going to try and flush the lines this weekend and see if something is plugged/caught. I ordered an inline filter today and will put that in with a new hose from the transmission to the radiator (old one is rusted).
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I have a 2001 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L . I purchased the truck used with about 120,000 miles on it. It runs great despite averaging about 10.8 mpg. Shortly after I got the truck, I noticed what I thought was an intermittent transmission issue when the trans would shift. I would get a "flare" that lasted briefly as if the trans was slipping, but it was accompanied by a sound that I'm not sure how to describe, but it was somewhat like hitting a rev limiter. It only happened when the transmission shifted. The fluid was clean and did not smell burnt. I assumed it was a misfire issue, even though it did not happen often, and seemed to only happen at shift points. I changed all of the plugs and all of the coil packs. It still does the exact same thing. Sometimes it only does it once every couple of days, and other times it may do it 3 or 4 times a day.
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Just got the transmission rebuilt in my truck and other then shifting hard sometimes it has been doing great, Hooked it up to the goose neck this evening and everything was fine then went to back it up and pull it forward and after a short distance the od light was flashing and when i ran a check on it it was p0720? The transmission has less then 1000 miles on it?!?!? 1999 Ford F-250 7.3 Automatic....
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