Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2014 F250 - Front Bumper Sagging
Mar 2, 2016
I got a 2014 F250 SD w/ 6.7 diesel. Since if owned the truck the front bumper has slowly started to sag at both driver and passenger side. Dealer says there is no adjustments for it.
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I recently purchased a 2002 F250 Regular cab long bed 2wd. I'm tired of the front end sagging so low, so I've been looking into a leveling kit. I was wondering whether I should go with 2" or 1.5" for the kit. I tow about 2000 lbs. 3-4 days a week and do not want the truck to look like it is squatting too badly. However, I really would like it too look more level.
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I bent my front bumper. Every time I look on amazon or ebay , when I put in my year, model, engine, it says their bumper won't fit. Mine has the 3 rectangular openings, 2 have the holes for mounting and tow hooks. It is chrome with the gray plastic or rubber bottom.Xlt. Also what part is the valance?
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i've done some searching but haven't found any how-to's or instructions on how to remove the front bumper on my 06 f250. Any link on how to do it?
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Do a 2014 f350 front bumper will fit on a 2001 f350? Wanting to know if the bolt holes and body lines will match up? I put a 2014 rear bumper on and it bolted right up.
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Ok I have a 2001 f250 SD with 7.3 and my rear bumper is dented and badly and warped. The steel frame mounting part of it is straight and fine. I found a "kit" on eBay that has just the end caps and plastic top cap for a 2008+ style trucks. Would those caps and plastic fit on my frame mounted section (what the actual name for the part that the chrome bumper actually screws into that mounts it to frame) ?
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I would like to install some driving lights behind the front bumper of my 2005 Super Duty, I was going to drill two 5" holes and than weld in some 5" pipe from the behind the bumper and attach some 5" KC driving lights to it. Would a hole saw work for this or is a bumper to thick? I was looking at DeWalt or Lenox hole saws their bi-metal. I know that I have to drill slow and I was going to use cutting fluid. I could use my drill press but I think I would have to figure how to clamp a bumper to the table. Then I am going to grind/sand the chrome off and paint it black. I will be taking the bumper off doing all of this.
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Any good way to install and mount a light bar without drilling into the front bumper or grill? I have a 32" LED bar I want to mount between the top of the bumper and bottom of the grill, but the mounts aren't ideal for where I want to put the light.
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I know this has been discussed but I still don't understand. Hence my "dumb blonde" user name.
I just purchased a 2013 super duty f350 extended crew cab DRW.
I also purchased a 42 foot (box is 36) Goose neck Bison LQ horse trailer. Trailer weight is 12048 and tongue weight is 4468. Fully loaded I am about 18,500.
Truck pulls and stops great but it is obvious the rear suspension is sagging.
Now what? Do I need air bags? Timbren? Spring Coils? I have called several installers and they all say something different.
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I have a 14 F250 Superduty with 6k miles, it has started a shudder around 40-45. It only does it briefly if I let off the gas and then accelerate it goes away.
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Just moved into the 250 from years of 150's. Now have 98 miles and read that the tran would have noise but normal while breaking in.
whats normal, not used to this much Clunk while changing from P to D ect. More noise than used too I guess.
3.73 gears
2014 F250, 6.2 gas 2wd....
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I just picked up a 14 F-250 with 6.2 engine. the shocks are leaking, and before I order new ones I want get opinions. I was looking at Bilstein 5100 series. 24-186025 for the rear, and 24-186018 for the front. are these the best, or should i get something else.
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I am looking at a 2014 f250, if has all of the options I want on a truck except the brake controller. Can a brake controller be added to this vehicle ? is it already wired for and do you just remove the blank plastic and pop in ? one ?
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My 2014 f250 4x4 crew cab with 6.2l gasser only gets about 7.5-8 mpg at 65 mph while pulling my 27' bumper pull travel trailer. I know that thing is basically a wall trapping the air but is there anything I can do to gain a couple mpg more? I can average about 15 mpg at 65 mph without the trailer on the highway.
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Why does my engine fan run when truck is cold? I hate it, anoying winding sound. It will run that way for up to ten miles sometimes. My other trucks never did this. This is the 6.2 gas.
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I bought the wife a truck a few weeks ago and she said the heater wasn't working well and was noisy. So I hoped in it at lunch today and she was right, barely any heat output and its noisy coming from behind the passenger airbag.
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2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.
First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.
After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.
Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded
To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.
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I have (2) 2014 f250's both have given the trailer disconnected message randomly from the day they were new. Dealer says everything is with in specification. I just live with it now but something must be wrong with the design. Only does it when no trailer is connected an might be worse when it rains. Might have to hit the ok button every 10 minutes so on bad days.
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How to do this, or have had it done? I do have 35x12.50x18's on it. I did go to the tire center here in my town to have them reprogram it but only worked for a few to a week cant remember.
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