Going to be picking up a 2014 bed soon. I have one rusted cab corner and both door bottoms are rusted I really can't buy new doors but I can replace the cab corner. What should I do about the door rust? My plan is to use monstaliner on the entire truck in a dark grey color. Any way to keep it from rusting any farther?
View 14 RepliesI have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
View 3 RepliesMy '03 F250 has a rusted bed. Both Rear fenders have it and if i didn't have a bed liner the bed would be rusted through. Where i can get a new take off or used bud decent bed? Any color doesn't matter just needs to be the short bed not the 8ft one.
View 4 RepliesWhere is the door chime? I just want to remove it. My truck is a 2014 e350.
View 1 RepliesI recently bought an 05 F250 CC SB. One or more of the bed support rails is rusted and the front one (right behind the cab) is bad enough that I can move the bed up and down with my hand. I've read several threads on a few forums about replacing them and I'm wanting to do it myself.
One other thread I read on this forum (link) gives a pretty straightforward outline of how he successfully did it and even gives dimensions for the rails he made. I'm thinking of doing pretty much the same thing, but he didn't mention the gauge/thickness of metal that he used. I read about the Dorman replacement kit, but they don't mention gauge either.
I have my front axles out to replace the U-Joints but they are rusted in there. Even the C-Clip is fused/rusted in place. I use my flat wheel grinder and ground out the C-Clips but the U-Joint caps wont budge. Been soaking in penetrating oil too. Any way other than drilling them out?
View 1 RepliesOK, so I have a 01 f350sd and i went to check my oil and the dipstick tube itself is so rusted it snapped in half so I took it to the dealer which I knew was going to be over priced labor but still checked the tube itself is 20 dollars but labor is upwards of 300-500... My engine is the 5.4 triton.
View 2 RepliesI picked up a 2014 F350 CC a couple months ago and have finally driven it in the evening. I went to turn on the first row map lamps and the light did not illuminate. I could turn it on with all of the interior lights, but not just a single map lamp. It also works when the door is opened or the RKE unlocks the truck.
View 2 RepliesI replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 dually and the brake line that runs the frame rail finally rusted through. It runs on the same side as the fuel tank. Is it easier to leave the old one in and run a new one along side it? I sure hate to think that I'll have to drop the tank for this.
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
View 6 RepliesOn my 01' the bottoms of the bump stops are completely gone. Rusted out to the point to where the rubber stop on the front lower control arm (if the truck bottomed-out) would go right thought it. The rubber stops are fine.
This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.
the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
View 9 RepliesVehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
I just bought a 2014 6.7 and the dealer claims every 10k. What is your alls opinion for optimum performance and engine life?
View 12 Replies I have a 2014 ford F350. Was flood damaged, all fixed and running great except a couple of small problems.
Was trying to solve a mykey problem with volume being restricted to 49% and IDS said it had found new PCM and TCM software and should it update.
Me being a dork, (forgetting that the truck is not stock has EGR delete and other stuff that I'm not even sure of) said 'sure go ahead!!'
As soon as it was reflashed, it came up with errors
ENGINE IDLE SPEED
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION ERROR
REDUCED POWER
did some googling and it seems (possibly) that when the truck was modified, the PCM was reflashed. When I upgraded the PCM I screwed it up as it set it back to original factory settings.
Do I need to buy an SCT tuner? Is there any way in IDS to disable EGR (I have a clone and I cannot find it). Am I best to take it to a shop that know what they are doing and have the reprogram the PCM.
It's been happening the last week or so, on and off. I'll open the door and close it and the cab light won't go off and the red DOOR AJAR light on the dash won't go off. The last two times it went off after about a minute. Now I don't care about it in the daytime, but at night it's a real pain. How do these sensors work? I see the little plastic lever on the rear door (ext. cab), but it can happen when I open just one of the doors. Is there a centralized receiver for both the door sensors?
View 3 RepliesMy outside, driver side front door handle is busted. I was about to order a new one from Rock Auto, and came across this-
DORMAN Part # 80645 {#7C3Z3622405APPTM} Front Left; Paint To Match
DORMAN Part # 79306 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Front Left; Black; Textured Finish; From 3/15/99
What is the difference here? Is something different on the early 99's?