Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 F250 - Sliding Rear Windows Opened And Closed Only 1 Time
Mar 5, 2017
I just bought this truck,2013 f250 CC Lariat 4x4. The sliding rear windows opened and closed 1 time and has never done it again. I have read about the motor and cable setup breaking and needing to be replaced. I do not think that is the issue. I have also read that the channel the window runs in needs to be lubricated on a regular basis. I was going to try that first. What is the recommended lube for these window channels?
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I was using a fluke to test voltage at the connector for the driver visor mirror light when I accidentally crossed leads and heard a pop. Now my Radio, windows, moonroof and sliding rear window are dead. I have checked the 30 amp service (601 fuse), the delay acc fuse (42), delay acc relay, and of course the power windows and radio fuses. None of which are bad and none of which seem to have any power. Is there another relay I should be checking? I have read about the battery saver relay in the instrument cluster but have not ruled it out yet. My dome lights, instrument lights all work. The truck also has a Viper remote start.
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I am trying to change out my solid back glass for a power slider that's oem... My question that ford could not answer is, is the wiring all in place minus the switch for the install.. I have a 2012 F250 XLT. I am not even sure where the switch to move the window would go either...
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07 f350 6.0 crew cab Truck thinks doors are closed when they're open and open when they're closed, just on the front 2 doors and keyless entry doesn't work and the key pad doesn't when you try to use the 2 right keys to lock the doors the back light will flick on and right back off, it'll work just fine to put the code in to lock the doors the back light on the keypad will stay lit up like it's supposed to.
The back lights only flicker when you push both 7-8 & 9-0 to lock the doors. When I bought the truck about 3weeks ago, the keyless entry worked but not the keypad so I kept pushing the buttons on the keypad till it started working but then the keyless hasn't worked since. Then the batteries died on the truck and I put new ones on and that's when I noticed the door sensors being backwards ..
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The rear power sliding window on my 05 6.0 F250 has started to open and close very slowly. I recently had my windows tinted. I checked track and can not see any obstruction. Having problems with their power sliders? Wondering if coincidence or if there is problem with window motor.
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My son recently purchased this truck in Jan., 2017, upon inspecting the vehicle we noticed the rear driver and passenger windows would not raise or lower. When I asked the seller about this his comments were " I believe it to be a master switch issue". Ok so no big deal, I purchased and replaced the master switch with no luck. I didn't spend much time on it due to the cold weather. After digging into this a little more I'm very confused now. So here is where I currently am at with this issue.
Power is not the problem, I am reading approx. 14V at the master switch and at the rear door switches. I've checked and have power when the switch is toggled to simulate raising and lower of the window (approx. 12 to 13.5V). The window lift motors have been taken out and cleaned and inspected. The motor will operate properly with a 12V battery pack (both motors, driver and passenger side). I have power all the way to the motor itself, slightly less than 14Volts.
I can raise and lower the window in the truck by plugging into the back of the female connector with the outside power source but not with the power supply from the truck. I have continuity between the power(blue) and ground(black) wires at the switches. So this is where I am at, also just a reminder the front windows and door locks work fine. Just a side note, this truck has aftermarket mirrors on it so that branch of the harness is left hanging.
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I have a 1999 F250 V10 SuperDuty. Just recently I had noticed some gray foam material laying on my passenger floor. Then about a week later my air vent near the passenger window is whistling really bad when I have the air on. I normally have that vent closed. Is there an easy fix for this? My guess is that the foam inside has deteriorated and broke apart.
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2013 f-250 crew cab short box, 6.2 gas with 48k miles. Right rear turn signal does not work...SOMETIMES. I took the brake light assembly off...bulb is good, turned on signal and the bulb will flash so I put it back together then drove a couple miles and then signal quits working again. I can't find any loose/corroded/bad wires at the bulb socket and I can't get the bulb to quit working when I have taillight assembly apart, (trying to replicate failure). There are never any blown fuses either.
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Every time I put the truck in reverse, I get a "Check Rear Park Aid" message on my display.
I tried wiping all of the sensors clean, and I checked the electrical connections and all seem to be fine.
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I did a search and flipped thru the owners manual without any luck. But my 99 Super Duty is equipped with a rear power sliding window but I can't find the dang switch anywhere. Where is it supposed to be located...
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My 2006 F350 has a nasty air leak/whistle coming from the rear power sliding window, unfortunately I found the one of the vertical seals laying in the cab. Looking for some insight on if there is a replacement seal kit, where I can find one and how difficult is it to install?
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Ok, so I have been noticing that the rear power window has been slow to close. So today I open it and now it wont close. When I press the button on the dash, I see the cable snap tight and hear the motor turn on so its not a fuse or motor. What I need to replace/fix. I have tried to blow the track out, tried wd40 tried having somebody hold the button while I try to assist it in closing, but none of that worked. It is now half way and wont go any further.
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I will be pulling apart the back of my crew cab to replace the broken old speakers and run some new wires, thought while I'm in there I should look at the power sliding rear window. The switch has power and the fuse is good, however when pressed, the window won't move. I can move it by hand though.
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Trying to replace sliding glass motor, quit working and had to cut the cable to shut it due to the rain. It appears I need to remove the seat belts & covers next.
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I just bought this truck and for some reason sometimes the power windows and radio will not work for awhile then it will start working. I replaced the relay on the accessory and I still have power to the dome lights and instrument cluster. I am kind of at a stand still on this matter. I have read that there is quit a few problems like this and not very many explanations to resolve it.
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Changing from manual windows to power? I don't want to swap doors because of the repaint issue but wondered what is involved, if it's even possible. I just read how to convert the rear windows on a Super Cab to power and it got me wondering about the front.
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Noticed the other day that the engine fan on my 2013 6.2powered F250 runs all the time. It's like it has two speeds- really fast where you can hear it running with the hood closed and a slightly slower speed where it still turns fast enough that you can't make out the individual blades. Is this normal with outside temps in the single digits.
ETA. it does this with the heater off also.I've noticed since it's cooled down this winter that when I slow down to drive through town or hit a stop sign my coolant temp needle drops a bit. Thought maybe the fan running is overcooling the engine or maybe it's always done that and I've just never noticed it before.
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Actually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
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I have a 2003 F250 Lariat 6.0L Crew Cab. My wipers, radio and power windows don't work. I have painstakingly checked every one of the fuses to see if there was one or more blown. All were OK.
I removed the fuse panel under the dash and have disassembled it to look for obvious clues, burnt wires/heat damage etc. but everything looks fine. Have pushed all of the fuses in to make sure they were seated properly. No joy.
I recently replaced one of the back windows in my truck and had to detach the rear dome light and I remember one of the wires sparking. Where to start diagnosing this problem?
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 with 6.4. Having alot of problems with the 4X4. Went to put the truck in 4 wheel drive one day and noticed the light on the dash never came on to engage 4X4. Of course we had a big snow storm coming and I didn't have 4 wheel drive. I drove the truck across town and decided to just try 4x4 again and it worked that time. I got the light on the dash and could hear the transfer case shift motor engage. Came out a little later and tried it and it wasn't working again. Took truck to shop where they replaced transfer case shift motor with a remaned motor from oriellys.
4x4 worked for a few weeks then just started doing the same thing again. We thought maybe that motor had problems also so had it replaced too. Truck is still doing the same stuff. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Figured out that if its not working and I leave it in 4x4 and unhook power to shift motor then plug it back in it will engage 4x4. I've seen some post on here but sounds like everyone i've seen their motor just stops and doesn't work at all.
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My 2005 F-250 6.0 liter Diesel FX4 Lariat is blowing AC through defrost only all the time. I have manual locking hubs and when I engage 4x4 it works perfectly through the ESOF switch. So I am assuming the vacuum pump and lines to the hubs are in good working order but there is possibly a cracked line or fuse blown? I've only had the truck for 2 days and it just happened after purchase. I'm a little unfamiliar with checking vacuum but have done reading and I believe I can do it. I am going to get a manual hand pump and pump to 20lbs and loss shouldn't exceed 1lb per minute. I just need to know which direction to look. Everyone else had their 4x4 not working and I seem to be the only one posting that has ESOF 4x4 capability when the defrost only issue is on.
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