Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 - Truck Won't Auto Center Itself After Turn?
Mar 28, 2013
I have a 1 week old 2013 Super Duty. Super Cab, Short Bed, 4x4.
Immediately I noticed on the drive home that the truck likes to wander back and forth and needs constant correction. It was really windy on the drive home from the dealership so I just chalked it up to the wind and didnt worry about it. Now a week later , its still doing the same. I have a 2011 F-150 and also a 2006 F-15 that I get to drive regularly and they definitely track straight and have no problem going down the road without constant correction.
ALSO, I noticed that my Super Duty DOES NOT auto center itself after a turn. Is this normal?? I mean after I make a turn, the steering wheel doesnt try to go back to center. I noticed that right away because I went around a turn and loosened up y hand's grip on the wheel expecting the steering wheel to slide through my hand as it went back to center like I am used to with my F-150s....
So in summary, my new truck wonders all over the road, much more than my F-150 and also doesnt auto center itself. Is this normal for these trucks?
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I have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
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Just bought this '08 F250 CCSB 4X4 5.4 Problem is the steering seems heavy, it tends to wander at higher speeds and won't return to center after a turn. I've searched on here and found a few possibilities (axle u joints, ball joints, steering gear, etc). I have an appointment with the dealer on Friday to fix it under warranty but he is convinced it's the u joints in the steering shaft seizing. When my F150 steering shaft began to seize, it would be hard to turn then break free then be hard then break free and this is not what is happening on the SD. I haven't had a chance to check the front end myself but not sure how you would check the axle u joints if there was no play in them. How would you check to see if they were seizing up.
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Yesterday I was parked on an incline with my front wheels on gravel and the rear wheels on wet grass/mud. When I tried to go, the rear wheels started spinning. I then switched on the low 4x4, and tried to go. The rear wheels continued to spin, but the front did not turn. I had new wheels installed, that has a cap that covers the manual locking hub, so I couldn't turn it to lock the hub. What should I look for to fix the problem?
2007 F250 4X4 Larriat SRW
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Since yesterday, every time I turn the key off and remove it from the ignition the truck just keeps running. Engine, radio, according and everything just like the key was still there. When I press the unlock button it shuts everything down. It is a 2014 F250 with 4500 miles on it. I don't know if I did something or what but I am confused.
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Made my right hand turn . Truck shut down. Will turn over no start. Cannot hear fuel pump turn on.
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My 2002 F-250 v-10 sat for over a month with me in the hospital for spinal reconstructive surgery. Battery was dead but has been charged and tested as good. The truck cranks strong but will not turnover. I am unable to do other diagnosis, what might be the problem.
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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I have a 2013 f350 powerstroke, and the other day i climbed in it noticed that with the right turn signal on that it wasn't clicking through the speakers. Then noted that the arrow wasnt lighting on the dash either. But the lights were still working in the headlight and the tailight. but not the mirror, where to start.
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2013 f-250 crew cab short box, 6.2 gas with 48k miles. Right rear turn signal does not work...SOMETIMES. I took the brake light assembly off...bulb is good, turned on signal and the bulb will flash so I put it back together then drove a couple miles and then signal quits working again. I can't find any loose/corroded/bad wires at the bulb socket and I can't get the bulb to quit working when I have taillight assembly apart, (trying to replicate failure). There are never any blown fuses either.
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Is there some sort of fix for this?
You know, you get in the truck and lean on the center "arm rest" to get better situated. After a while the constant abuse brakes something and now the armrest is now floppy
FYI, this in an 04 crewcab F350
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I am wanting to take off the center console lid to recover it. The only way I see to remove just the lid from the truck is to hit the rod out that is in the hinge. I was hitting pretty hard with a punch and it wasn't moving. I don't really want to break it so I'm asking if there is a different way or if I just need to use more force?!
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Well replaced my u-joint on the passenger side along with the large knuckle seal. to say the least.. a nightmare. Got it all put back together and now my auto 4x4 is not working. dash says it's in 4x4 but it's not engaged. Worked fine before this little adventure. It's a 2006 250 superduty gas....
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I've got a 2008 Ford F250 Superduty Crew Cab. My problem is that the center console of the front bench seat is loose. I keep it folded down nearly all the time and any pressure on the front left corner causes the rear right corner to pivot up.
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I am putting steel wheels all around on my 99 dually. I want to look like police crown Vic's with black wheels Crome center caps. My current caps will not clip to steel wheels.
Is the center caps that will clip over the lugs on a dually?
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When I turn on the headlights of my 2004 sd diesel dually the console readout dims to the point I can't read it. I know about the intensity wheel but it does not have enough to overcome the auto-dim feature. Can the auto-dim be disabled, ripped out, sent to Iran, threatened with a .45? Anything to get rid of it.
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Have a 2008 F350 Lariat Crew cab and I don't have any power coming to the center console power points. I unplugged the cig lighters and check the harness itself but no juice. Fuse 41 and 43 test good am i missing another fuse not listed?
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06 F250 6.0 CCSB 4x4 163K Truck was in a pass side wreck about three weeks ago. Aside from bumper, head light, etc I had to replace the track bar and then I had the alignment done. Mech said the steering was loose and was either the steering box or column.
PROBLEM: Truck drove and parked fine last night, I went to leave the driveway this morning and I had to turn the wheel full right while backing up. The wheel locked up and wouldn't turn back to the left to straighten out. Hood wouldn't pop either to check anything
I crawled under the truck, the belt was in place and I didn't see any power steering fluid leaking. Thinking it was a PS problem and the hood not opening, I basically floored it and yanked on the wheel and it broke loose. Also, for what ever reason the hood opened after that
Now the steering is heavy and the wheel doesn't center on it's own. It will stay turned when I let go of the wheel. Scared that it would happen I didn't try turning it full lock on the way to work. but it happened again exiting the parking lot, again full right lock and the wheel stuck.
I managed to yank the wheel to the left again and I heard a distinct pop from what I'm sure was the pass side wheel area.
The PS fluid is dark and I'll figure out how to change it. I've read issues from the U-joints, ball joints, Steering box, steering stabilizer, and failing PS pump could all lead to this. Being the truck had a pass side fender bender, and I'm pretty sure the pop sound came from the pass side how do I check all of these items.
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I need to replace a bulb (I hope) in my center clearance light and need to remove the amber lens cover. Lots of info about installing for those without but I haven't been able to find anything about removing the lens cover so that I can replace a bulb. I'm working with a 2008 F-450.
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Just purchased my first ever Ford truck a few weeks ago, it's a 2012, and where the drivers right arm rested on the center console, near the cupholder, it's perpetually sticky. At first i thought it was just filthy, but after thoroughly cleaning it, it just stays sticky.
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