Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 - Leak From Passenger Grab Handle
Feb 8, 2015
I've just purchased a 2013 F250 Lariat crew cab. In the car wash I had quite a bit of water coming our of the passenger handle on the a pillar. I've researched this site and all I've found is 3rd brake light, sunroof and the Sirius satellite antennae leaks. I don't think it could be any of those. I don't have a sunroof, the third brake light is in the back and the antennea is on the drivers side. I'm thinking window seal or passenger door weather seal.
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I have a 1999 F350 and the passenger side front door suddenly will not open with the inner handle but it will open if I roll down the window and open it from the outside. The inside seems like it is locked but the locks are all working fine and all the other doors are working just fine .....
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My truck doesn't want to go grab parking!! The shifter has a lot of play, Every time I go to park my truck I have to forcefully hold the shifter up into parking so it can grab. I had times when the shifter its in parking and it will still move, like I've gotten out and pushed it and it moves.
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2012 350, crew, 4x4, 6.7, LB. Ignition does not always engage when you turn the key (we've changed the tumbler and the batteries) after sometime the truck will start. the dome lights do not work in auto anymore and every so often the steering will "grab" to the left, when I compensate it will switch to the right. I can drive from 20 - 300 miles sometimes before it does this and then it may or may not come out of it right within 5 - 20 minutes.
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Alright, after finally fixing my 4X4 issues, now I have a coolant leak. It's on the passenger side, just above the exhaust downpipe. I can't find any leaks in the hoses, and as far as I can see it looks like it's coming out of the back of the head and running down the back of the block. The odd thing is there's no oil in it, and no coolant in my oil (which obviously is a good thing), but I don't want it to get to that point of it is getting worse. Heat works fine, and it isn't overheating, only losing maybe a gallon a month. At some point the ford gold stuff was flushed and it has the compatible green, that is the only thing I can tell is not stock. I don't want to tear it down if I don't absolutely have to.
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Alright so, I've done a lot of research to come across a mirror motor and I found one, problem is I don't have the slightest clue on how to take the morror apart. It attempts to fold then stops. So, I kind of jumped the gun and tried to pop off the main mirror and I cracked it. How to disassemble the mirror.
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1999 f250 with some mild upgrades. Trucks got 189,000 miles. Stole it from an older guy for 4k. In fantastic shape. As the weather got colder I noticed an exhaust leak. Took it to a muffler shop only to find that it's got an aftermarket header on the passenger side only. Is that common to replace only one side?. the gasket has gone bad and needs replacement. I wanna replace both headers?
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Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
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The truck has 64k miles and has developed a small leak on the engine side of the radiator with no apparent damage. There is no variation on the pressure test and the dealer was able to find the very small leak with dye in the system. It has lowered by about 3/4 of a gallon of coolant over the last couple of months. There are no visible signs of a leak but you smell the coolant when you stop the truck.
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Seems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
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I have a 07 6.0L and the other day while cleaning it out I noticed that the carpet on the passenger side was wet. I have never noticed it before so this had to recently start. I don't think its heater core related as its completely clear and doesn't have a smell to it. I am also not loosing any coolant. The truck only has 18,300 miles on it,and it sits most of its life until recently after I took it over.
It has never had the windshield replaced,to be honest nothing has been replaced. I don't believe its a/c drain related either, the hvac controls have been in the off position for the last 2 weeks,and just 3 days ago after drying the carpet out completely(with a fan), its wet again after a nights rain, not as wet as before, but its damp.
And last night it was pouring down rain and I had the carpet pulled back to dry/air out, so I thought I would go out and take a look to see if i can see water coming in. Sure enough there are 2 trails of steady water flow. Its coming from directly under the glove box, there is a silver canister that is held on by 2 screws, its dripping down 1 of those screws. I cant quite make it out where its coming in from, but i am thinking the blower housing.
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I found water under carpet next to door. Appears to be coming from area above center of vehicle. Only occurs during rain etc. Not from A/C or heater housing.
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I have a 2001 f250 last night we had a good rain and this morning as i was backing down the driveway water came running down the passenger side floor board from under the dash i cant seem to find where it came from on the inside and can not find any standing water under the cowl where could it be coming from?
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Looking to get rid of the step handle, I did this mod on mine and it was a direct fit...take off old liner and unbolt handle, then get a liner from a non-step tailgate and it is a direct fit:
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So I want to add a backup camera to my truck. Ive got a headunit that will do it but I dont like how any of the aftermarket one really look and I dont like most of the locations to mount or the angle they mount at. So my question is will a tailgate handle from say a 2010 that has the factory hole for a backup camera fit in the spot of my 2001 tailgate handle? I have to replace the handle anyways since it broke this past weekend, thought Id add the camera while I was at it if I can get it to work like I want.
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2004 F350 Lariat Crew Cab. My truck has been repeatedly attempted to be broken into through the keyhole. This time they fully punched it through the door, and now i have a hole where the lock should be.
I researched stuff like jimmi-jammers etc, but for the time being.. I am looking just to pick up a set of handles without keyholes. I have remote-less entry and keypad.
Couple questions... Would rear door handles off a crew cab, fit to the fronts? they look the exact same minus the keyhole.. and this would likely be the easiest to find.
Or... Is there any good websites i can take a look at that will manufacture keyless front driver and passenger side handles? They're textured black, and i would like them to match as best as possible.
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My '99 Super Duty does NOT have power windows; old school cranks. The door panel(s) are "no frilz", no storage pockets. I want to know if it's possible to get panels that DO have pockets and will "fit" my crank handles?
I could always just drill a hole into a door panel that has the pockets for the window crank, but, they all seem to come with power window setups (opening for all the power switches). Also, where I can get rugs to cover the floor - I just have a rubbery/plastic surface.
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I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
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I bought this truck used several months back and have ran it extremely hard. It's supposedly studded and EGR deleted. The whole engine was replaced at 183,xxx by some diesel place. Anyways, while I was driving I smelled coolant and thought that was funny so I ignored it. Anyways, My livewire tuner started seeing a coolant and engine oil increase. I figured I'd go ahead and drive it home. It got to 153 F* and the coolant was around 129 F* The oil cooler has been clogging up and I just got my brand new Ford one in.
So that will be replaced sooner rather than later. When I got home, I checked the coolant level and there was nothing in it!! It was pretty much empty. So I put the water hose on it and turned the water on and after about 2 mins steam started coming out near the turbo. I mean a crapload of steam. I turned the water on again and saw that it was coming out right next to the EGR delete. It's hard to tell exactly but looks like the intake manifold??? What could it be? It's not the hose for the EGR. The degas bottle has never overflowed, there's no white smoke except on cold starts in really cold temps.
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I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
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I noticed a raw fuel smell today while driving. I came right back home & found fuel spread all over the under carriage. I popped the hood & found the fuel bowl and surrounding area wet as well as fuel puddled up in the valley.
Before I tear into things I'd like to get input about common causes. I've read that the separator valve gets it's o-rings eaten up by modern fuel. Could this possibly be it? If so are there special kits that deal with the low sulfur & biodeisel?
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