Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 - Getting Gear Ratio Closer To 3.73 For Fuel Economy?
Jun 15, 2013
I have a 2013 F450 Platinum and I love it. I would really like to get my gear ratio closer to 3.73 for fuel economy. Have not been able to find replacement ring and pinions to go to 3.73, so my only other option is to do it through changing tire size. I have 4.30 gears and based on what I have found, 37 inch tires will get me really close to the 3.73 ratio. I want to keep my truck as close to factory as possible, but I do want to do a leveling kit.
So can I fit 35x12.50x17 Toyo MT under my truck with just a leveling kit and use the stock rims? If not, what are my other options?
I have seen the option to swap to 22" shaved Alcoa's, but don't really want to go through all of the spacer/adapter stuff.
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I have a 99 f250 with some procomp (325s) that are 12.5 wide with a 6in lift my superchip tuner can change the trannys shift points but I am pretty sure a new gear ratio is needed. I dont do a whole lot of off roading with it its mainly my driving around and highway rig whats a good gear ratio that would work for me
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2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
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Just ordered a 2014 SD 250 FX4 CC SB 6.2L Lariat. I ordered it w/ the 3.73 axle ratio, but have two weeks to change it if I choose. Was wondering the pros and cons of both axle ratios. Going to be hauling a 16 foot tandem axle enclosed trailer with 7 dozen goose decoys and a four wheeler and other gear through corn fields 100 days a year. I'm fairly hard on trucks and this is my first ford I've owned myself, but have driven a lot of them at work. Basically need opinions on best axle ratio to get in and out of muddy, or snow covered fields.
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I just purchased a F250 Gasser with the 6.2. I made sure to get it with the 4.30 rear to babl to tow a little better when i upsize the tires a little. Where I can find the drive output ratio from the transmission?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 5.4 gas. I have some minor issues that I will be trying to fix. This is my first full size truck and I bought it to pull a trailer once in a while. How can I find the axle ratio for this specific truck? Is it written on the truck somewhere?
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My truck is a 2008 F250 6.4 Powerstroke 4x4 King Ranch, CrewCab, Shortbed.
I don't know which rear axle ratio it has - maybe someone can help me. the tires mounted are 275/60R17 and in fifth gear (TC locked) the engine has 2000rpm @ 70mph. I think it is a bit to much so I want to install a kit with and lower ratio. I pull trailers just sometimes and here in germany these only have 3,5tons max weight. So I think I don't need this power at 70mph. 1750rpm would be enough. How do I have to modify the front axle ratio if I get a lower-ratio-rear-axle?
I want to lower the fuel consumption. After some modifications, the truck needs round about 12-13L/100km (18-20mpg) and I think it is possible to lower this as bit.
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I have a 2002 F450 2WD AT with the common Dana 80 4.88:1 posi rear diff. If I change the ring & pinion to 4:10 do I need to change the carrier or does my current carrier fit 4:10 & lower [4.63,4.88, 5.13 etc]? Will I need to adjust my speedo readings & if so how is this accomplished? Electronically via the diagnostic port?
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I had my fuel filters changed at the dealership today on my '15, and then I bought fuel and headed home (70 miles). About half way home I got a "Low Fuel Pressure" message and a little while after that "Reduced Engine Power" along with the check engine light.
I pulled over to see if they did something like leave the drain open, thinking it might be sucking air. Of course it was dark and I could not see anything. However I did hear a buzzing sound and could feel a vibration when I touched the fuel line going into the top of engine filter.
While it is possible I got bad fuel, I suspect they did something wrong installing the filters. Even after cycling the fuel pump multiple times they had a hard time getting it started afterwards; I think they finally disconnected the top fuel line to bleed the air out.
I continued home and made it, but not sure what to do now; its 70 miles back to the dealer.
What is the most likely problem? Improper fuel filter installation or bad fuel?
Should I pull the filters in the morning see if there is something obvious like an out-of-place gasket? If so, top or bottom filter?
Is this a tow truck affair or should I drive 70 miles back to the dealer?
What the heck is the buzzing sound?
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I bought a 2013 XLT 4X4 wiht 5.0 V8 about 3 months ago. I reset the computer when I first bought it and it shows an average of 15.7 MPG. I have also kept records of all fuel purchased and my actual mileage is 15.2 MPG.
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I just picked up my 2013 XLT diesel last week. I noticed the Airbag light comes on and does not go off.
It does not blink or appear to give any code, just goes off for a few seconds when i start then immediately comes back on solid. Where to look? Loose connector somewhere? Due to my work hours and weekend obligations, it is hard to schedule dealer time.
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2013 F250. Wife turned the ignition on to roll up the windows before the storm (good thing), but left the switch on. Both batteries dead. I charged them both (although not completely). Started OK but have a check engine light on. Should I just put the batteries back on charge?
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So it appears as though my shift lever (automatic) will not shift into the 1st gear position? However when I drive the vehicle, the transmission seems to shift through 4 gears, then into Overdrive? What could be the issue?
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My tranny only goes to 3rd gear in 4x4 lo is that normal? 2014 6.2 xl f250 ....
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Friend's truck started shifting wierd the other day, starts in second gear (maybe higher). The transmission is a fresh rebuild, the shop wouldn't warranty the rebuild and blamed electrical problems outside the tranny. Fuses are all good, engine light is on but the cheapo code reader won't show a code. Did a search and no answers. Had the overdrive light flashing from before, that code was for a wheel speed sensor.
1999 F250 (7 bolt) 5.4L 4x4
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I just purchased a 2016 motorhome on a f53 chasis with v10 engine. The transmission has D, 4, 2, and 1. THERE is also a tow/ haul button. What gear do I put the transmission when going uphill and downhill. I am traveling in Shenandoah Valley and when I was rolling downhill the rpm began to race between 3-4k rpm without my foot on the gas pedal. Is this normal, I was in regular D mode. Going uphill I controlled my acceleration and I was at 2500 rpm. I just don't want to use incorrectly and affect my transmission and engine.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3L. I bought it with 192,000 miles and have driven it to 206,000 in the last 6 months. When I put it in gear, the truck will "bog" down and sometimes die. I will have to refill the transmission fluid every 2 weeks but I can't find where it's leaking.
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My 2013 f350 long bed diesel pickup has a noise in the front end when going over a bump such as a curb at low speed. It will also occur if turning onto a side street that is at a downhill grade. The vehicle has 4000 miles and is just at one year old. The noise sounds like a shock housing scraping on the shock or a very dry and rusty bushing. It also sounds similar to the anti-lock pulsing. I have had it to the dealer twice and they can not find a problem. The noise is very loud and easy to hear. I have gotten under the truck and looked around to see if I can find any evidence of rust and do not. Sometimes if I have my foot on the brake pedal when the noise happens I feel the anti-lock pulsing.
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Noticed the other day that the engine fan on my 2013 6.2powered F250 runs all the time. It's like it has two speeds- really fast where you can hear it running with the hood closed and a slightly slower speed where it still turns fast enough that you can't make out the individual blades. Is this normal with outside temps in the single digits.
ETA. it does this with the heater off also.I've noticed since it's cooled down this winter that when I slow down to drive through town or hit a stop sign my coolant temp needle drops a bit. Thought maybe the fan running is overcooling the engine or maybe it's always done that and I've just never noticed it before.
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I'm currently trying to swap out the standard AM/FM/CD for a DVD receiver with backup camera, and need to find out the proper wiring colors and pin position. I'd rather not send it to a stereo shop, as I've seen a lot of hack work by so called "audio installation experts", and besides.. I have a shop and can do the work myself.
I tried looking through AllData, but since my truck is too new, Ford doesn't release a lot of technical info for us in the aftermarket. Looking for a link to a Ford diagram?
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I have a 2013 f-350 with 58,000 miles. I'm a general contractor and drove my truck to a very nice home with decorative concrete. After I left the customers house they called my office to say I left oil stains on their driveway. I looked under the hood and noticed motor oil leaking on the front left side of the engine. I told the customer we will take care of the stain. I've never had a diesel motor leak this soon on me.
My mechanic told me to go to a Ford dealer so I did. The dealer told me that this is not covered under the warranty as it is a oil pump/brake vacuum. THE MOTOR IS LEAKING OIL. I told the dealer that the motor is leaking oil and I have a warranty that I signed up for. He told me that Ford considers this issue the same thing as an alternator.
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