Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 F550 - Inner Hood Has Started Separating From Outer Shell
Sep 1, 2013
I've got 330 miles on my new 2013 F550. I'm getting ready to take a 2200 mile trip. So I'm giving the truck a quick once over I pop the hood and to my amazement the inter hood has started separating from the outer shell. I would think its going to vibrate now.
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I have a new 2013 F-550 Lariat 200" WB on order. I can and will increase the combination weight on the truck, to make full use of the 19, 500 gvwr. My question is how much will a current F-550 pull on a 5th wheel/gooseneck style trailer before it becomes dangerous? I plan to set the truck up with an 11ft aluminum Eby flat body, with a Holland FW6000 5th wheel placed under the body. I am considering a 35 or 40 ft flat gooseneck.
The combination weight would be changed based upon the axles I choose to put under the trailer. Two 12k axles will give me 44,000 gcwr, two 15k axles will give me 50,000 gcwr, and two 16k axles would give me a 51,000 gcwr. The truck will be able to carry about 10,000-11,000, the trailer needs to take the rest. I am confident that 44,000 gcwr will not be a problem, but the idea of 50,000, or 51,000 really makes me question safety. So, how much have you hauled with a F-550, and a gooseneck trailer?
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Really love my 2013 F550 but the door chime is driving me crazy. On my 2003 f150 you could just drop the column cover and unhook one wire running to the tumbler. So I had a look and found it to be totally different. How to unhook it on this truck?
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2000 Excursion 4x4 v10 auto. Pulling the boat last weekend up the driveway from the lake and the truck started smoking under the hood at the top of the drive. Jump out and saw a fire under the pass floorboard. Go the hose and put it out in 30 sec. Thought i blew a trans line and it sprayed on the cat. Took it to the shop and he said lines are good it's not leaking. He said it is possible that the trans over heated and built up pressure and blew it out past the front seal.? What happened or how to prevent it from happening again?
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Ok, so I am trying to get are 99 F550 all fixed up and have a few things to ask.
So we have had the ABS light on now for some time. I had it scanned at O Riley's and the scanner said the abs sensor on the passenger side was faulty. So I replaced that and the light was still on. We had taken the truck to ford to get it checked out for a rear end problem we have been having as some of you may know from a previous post I made.
Well ford said it was the rear sensor on the axle that was causing the abs light to come on. So I replaced that. Still have the abs light on. I disconnected the batteries to try and see if that would reset it and it did not. I hooked up the Scan Gauge II and ran to see if it picked up anything. It said it did not pick up any thing. I still did a code clear but it didn't work. If there a tricky way that you have to get the code cleared off?
2nd I was checking the fluid. I noticed that the tranny fluid is over filled quite a bit. Will this hurt it? Should I drain the fluid to where its at the fill line?
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Earlier this week I pulled out my right axle shaft and found the outer portion of the Spicer two piece seal attached to the axle, the part number on the seal is 52148. The axle tube is dry, no signs of the seal leaking. I need to remove that seal from the shaft to install a new outer dust seal. Can that seal be removed with a 3 jaw pulled then get reinstalled, or can I get a new 53148 and install that portion with out removing the carrier. I am not set up where I sit right now to pull both axles.
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OK, so I have the brake pedal downshifting, but there is no real exhaust brake. Can I have one installed, like the latter model 2015 or even the 2016, with the button?
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I have a 2008 f-550 diesel. Had water in fuel. Flushed the entire system. Replaced the fuel filters and injectors but still will not start.
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I'm working on a 2000 7.3 that was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start ...
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It has a 7.3 bone stock in it. When it is cranking you can hear a relay clicking. it's behind the dash just below the radio. There are 3 relays together 1 big one which is for trailer lights and 2 small ones which i don't know where they go. but i replaced all 3 and i still hear the clicking ONLY when the engine is cranking.
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New to me 2012 F550 parking lights will not go off. Battery disconnected now. Touch battery cable parking lights come on.
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I have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
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I have a 1999 Ford F550 with a 6.8L V10 and a 4R100 Auto.
I want to run an underhood hydraulic pump, like what a wrecker uses only I want to use it to run a generator under the truck.
How can I get a 6.8 to idle up to 1200 or so? I searched the Body builders guide and it looks as if the idle up is for the 7.3 only.
My truck also is not a 2005 and up like the other posters, who can take advantage of a drive by wire.
Also I doubt my transmission has a PTO cover so I think a generator option using that route is a dead end. What are my options to idle the truck up to 1200?
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Do I need a special tool to put the outer axle seal on a 2003 excursion? I could make one if I new how far down it needs to be. I'm replacing the needle bearings in the back of the hubs and it looks like the last seals were not on far enough and the hub tore them up....
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1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
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The rear hub outer oil seal on my 05 350 is leaking. The 350 Super Duty Twin Cab was never imported into the UAE so can I use the same seals as the Excursion or another Ford vehicle?
Failing that do we know the name and part number of a seal manufacturer whom I might be able to source from in Dubai? Ford don't make the seals them selves so there must be an alternate source for these things surely?
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I have a new to me 1999 f550 w/ 7.3 and I have installed an aluminum service body with a crane on the passenger side bins. The crane itself weights about 650lbs plus the steel frame it is mounted on (superstructure in the aluminum service body). I'm concerned about the uneven load on the rear suspension. It does sag slightly to the passenger side - guessing 1" - I will measure tomorrow.
1) Should I be concerned?
2) What can I do to correct it? (without just adding weight to counter balance it).
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I am trying to figure out where the relay would be when i look online for the map of the relay box under the hood it says nothing of a horn relay. I don't have a key fob for the doors to unlock so I wouldn't think its tied to the computer. Should mention nothing happens when you hit the horn also fuse is fine. No power at the actual horn when i hit the steering wheel(horn)....
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Recently removed a plow and wiring harness from my 00 F550 and now my headlights no longer work. The headlight plugs have an adapter that the plow harness plugged in to and it now appears I need some type of end plug on each one to complete the circuit. The problem is the dealer doesn't understand what I need and doesn't think there is such a part out there. Perhaps my thinking is all wrong.
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I bought a new Motorcraft door latch for my F550 because the door latch won't stay latched. You close the door firm and it seats well then pops loose the first bump in the road. I found all kinds of OEM replacment latches all over the internet but nowhere can I find any instructions or videos or any talk of the best way to go about replacing the door latch. I know they wear out from constant use on the drivers side.
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I am looking for the location of the fuel pump relay for my 1999 Ford F550 V10 4WD Gas truck.
I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. When the key is turned the pump gets juice and 2 seconds later is not getting juice. No lines are coming into it, so it's not getting up to pressure and shutting off.
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