Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 F350 - Codes P0420 And P0430
Apr 10, 2017
I have a 2013 F350 Crew Cab Long bed xl with 128000 miles on it. I just barely bought it from a small dealer and had a check engine light come on for the cats.(P0420 and 0430)
I have spoke with the dealer and he assured me that he would replace the cats. He stated he had O2 sensors replaced and thought he had fixed the problem. Not sure if he replaced all sensors or just the fronts.
He has been avoiding calls lately and will not return my messages. Anyways, My question is what should I be looking for to prevent future cats from going bad. I just ordered a bluetooth OBD 2 scanner and bought the Torque Pro App.
I am not new to working on trucks but they have all been 1995 and older and i am new to anything scanner wise and do not know what I should be monitoring. If I can't get this guy to replace the cats I want to monitor everything to make sure the cats are bad.
BTW, Fuel Mileage is at best 12.3 with an extremely light foot, Driving normal it drops off to about 11.8-12. Is this a normal MPG in these trucks? I have seen post about people getting close to 16 unloaded not smashing throttle?
On another note, I just remembered that my traction control light will come on with no wheel spin at times after starting the truck and driving away.
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I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
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I have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
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I just recently purchased a 2008 ford f350 5.4L gasser, supercab long box. The truck has 167,000km on it. I flew about 700km from my hometown to pick up the truck and drive it home. After driving about 300km I started noticing a few problems.
The engine light codes that have been stored as of now:
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0191 (Fuel rail pressure sensor i think?)
The issue I'm having is that the truck has absolutely no power going uphill or accelerating. If I'm climbing a hill and have the gas pedal pushed in at a steady rate its almost as if the transmission wont shift, and if i push harder on the gas the truck begins to shudder. When the truck is cold it runs normal and climbs hills no problem, but once it heats up the problem returns. Another odd thing I noticed under the hood on my drive home was that they disconnected the vacuum line from the fuel rail pressure sensor and simply plugged the line on a random bolt.
Also, the truck apparently has a cam phaser lockout on it and I dont know if that could be causing the issue? Here's a list of some of the troubleshooting ive done so far.
-checked all fuses(start at the basics eh)
-checked resistance of coils(checked out fine, even after engine was warm)
-pulled spark plug 1 and 5, they both seemed fairly clean, not fowled up
-generally looked over all the vacuum lines, seemed fine couldn't see anything else really out of the ordinary
-while the truck was running I used a temperature gauge to see what the exhaust system was doing. On the drivers side when the truck was warm before the cat I had 140C and after the cat it was 80C(good indication the cat is plugged?) The other side tested fairly consistent.
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2003 f350 2wd 5.4 auto cab and chassis with 40 gal rear tank replaced fuel pump/fuel filter/spark plugs/IAC no codes
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A few weeks back I got my ARK exhaust installed with no problems. Due to some personal reasons I had it removed and my stock exhaust reinstalled by a different shop over this past weekend. I've been driving it fine for the past few days but today I noticed the CEL on with codes P0420 and P0430. I hit up the shop to see what was up and he told me he didn't touch anything that should have caused this. What should I do....
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2007 F350 6.0 .. I let the truck sit for about a week went out to start it truck cranked right up then died now the truck wont start truck was running fine until this I wasn't having any starting problems. the codes are all eight injectors low circuit tested ficm had 48.3 volts...
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My dads truck started misfiring last week, first thing i did was scan the codes and got p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, and p0308. Its an 08 F-350 5.4...already changed out the spark plugs and the same codes came back. I decided to do some further testing and so far all coils had spark as well as 12.4 volts going to each. I did check the switching signal and that was present as well.
Moved on to the injectors and i checked each connector with my noid lights and it flashed on all cylinders. Did a resistance check on each injector and they all registered 12.4 ohms. We did switch some coils around and all the same cylinders misfire. My next step is to do a compression test.
My biggest question is if there are any common problems with these engines besides the coils, by the way this truck has the brown coil boots and the spark plugs that dont break in the engine.
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We bought the 2010 RX350 a couple of weeks ago and have gotten these codes twice.. I have a good scanner and know what the codes say about Cat's bank 1 and 2 operating below threshold. I know some of you are going to say replace the cat's, others are going to say replace the sensors and neither should be the problem... If it were a cat or sensor, then they would not come in at the identical same time... It has to be something common such as a throttle body, charcoal canister, or another item upstream of the cat's... Not the gas cap either...Maybe a vacuum hose..
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I have a 2013 f-350 with 58,000 miles. I'm a general contractor and drove my truck to a very nice home with decorative concrete. After I left the customers house they called my office to say I left oil stains on their driveway. I looked under the hood and noticed motor oil leaking on the front left side of the engine. I told the customer we will take care of the stain. I've never had a diesel motor leak this soon on me.
My mechanic told me to go to a Ford dealer so I did. The dealer told me that this is not covered under the warranty as it is a oil pump/brake vacuum. THE MOTOR IS LEAKING OIL. I told the dealer that the motor is leaking oil and I have a warranty that I signed up for. He told me that Ford considers this issue the same thing as an alternator.
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I have a 2013 F350 king ranch with the 6.7. Radio will not turn on, no power at the radio, however navigation system is working. Could there be something miner causing this problem?
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I took my car to get inspected today and it was rejected because of P0420 and P0430: Both Catalyst system efficiency below... My check engine is also on.
I have the full Meisterschaft exhaust installed (+midpipe) PPE headers and K&N intake. Whats the problem and how can I get this fixed so I can pass the inspection?
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Have a an 11 f350 6.2 gas throwing p0171 and 0174. Driving the truck it has spark knock pretty bad. Ive parked it at this point. Its a tow truck so I need it fixed and back on the road. I've checked the hoses going to the pcvs they appear to be ok.... Also upon starting the truck it just sounds weak.....
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I have a 2006 F350 SRW 4WD 6.0 with 127000 miles on it. A couple of weeks ago it, pulling out of my driveway, it hesitated and tow haul started flashing. I had codes pulled and it showed P1780, P0751, and P2700. After turning off, codes were gone and tow haul off. Ran fine since then every day. Yesterday while going about 50 mph it started acting like it was in neutral (revving up), nothing happened when mashing the accelerator. Coasted to a driveway and truck would not move, only sounded like it was in neutral.
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I own a 2011 F350 dually with the 6.7 in it. It has 136000 on it and zero mods. I was driving over the weekend and the traction control light, brake light, and the ABS lights all came on and the information center displayed Check Brake System. We were towing our 5th wheel when this happened. The brakes on the pickup and trailer both work and we have no problems stopping. About every 15 minutes or so this message pops up and it chimes again. My insight is reading a U0418 code. We are stopped now and the code and alert message is still popping up without the trailer. All fluid levels are where they should be.
We are also getting a check engine light and my Insight is reading the codes P2020 and P20E8.
I can reset the codes dealing with the reductant leakage and low pressure, but not the codes dealing with the brake system.
I have had my pickup in to 2 different ford dealers for these issues and they cannot find anything wrong. I did notice that this time when the Check Brake system warning appeared that the pick up started lunging a bit, we lost power to the stereo and the windshield wipers came on. Our fuel mileage has remained the same and the pickup still tows like a beast.
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New too my Ford, but anyway it's -10 Celsius. My trucks been idling for a few hours and probably will all day because of my job. Usually idles about 600rpm normally. So today the oil temp was about 80degrees Celsius. Then the truck idled up too about 1000rpm for a while. If I touch the gas it goes back to normal idle speed but then starts idling up again after 30 sec. What temp does the truck want too keep it at?
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I've noticed that when I insert the key in my 2013 F250 I hear a humming noise, if I pull the key out it goes away. What is this noise? It seems to do it as long as the key is in, but is quiet enough that you can only hear it when there isn't a lot of back round noise.
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I got a 2013 f350 lariat long bed. Had a flat bed put on and now my check park assist is always on.. Dealer didn't install sensors. Is there any module or anything I can do to turn this thing off?
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I have a 97 F350 5.8 with E40D trans. I bought the truck with it shifting hard thinking maybe a simple filter/fluid change would fix it. It may have worked a little but did not fix the issue. There were 3 or 4 codes that I have already cleared up with new parts. I am still getting a 327 (something with EGR?) and 629 (Converter clutch control circuit failure). These show up in KOEO and KOER self test. The O/D does not flash ( bulb does work).
Parts that have been replaced: VSS, MLPS, new connector going into solenoid pack (tabs were broken), TPS. Removed the trans wiring harness and there is no damage or loose connections. When I replaced the solenoid connector I noticed there was some trans fluid in the connection. I cleaned it the best I could and reinstalled with dielectric grease.
The truck runs fine and shifts in and out of every gear fine its just shifting hard. If I unhooked the battery it will shift perfect for 5-10 minutes but then the hard shifting returns.
The only other thing I can find with my research is maybe the solenoid pack needs replaced. I figured if I take it somewhere they are going to want to rebuild/replace transmission. It seems like it can't be something very major since it will shift fine when reset...
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I have a 2013 f350 4x4 diesel. I bought used with 80,000km on it. Started getting a bad vibration in the steering wheel around 80km/h. went too ford and replaced the track bar ball joint and steering stabilizer. After that the truck drove perfect. The next day I went and put on my new rims and tires (used tires) 20" rims with 35x12.5 r20 amp m/t tires. They used beads too balance tires. I left the tire shop and the wobble was back, I went right back too the tire shop and they took the tires and rims off too inspect more and found that one tire had kind of a flat spot and uneven wear.
So they put it on the back as too take away a little bit of the vibration, idea is too wear down that bad tire till the flat spot is gone, when I'm driving it at highway speeds it wobbles a little bit and those goes away and then comes back every 20 seconds or so, will this go away or do I need too replace that tire, buddy of mine told me too do a little burnout and maybe even out the tire a little bit but amazingly that didn't work...or could something else be wrong? Factory tires were 275/65/r20 That I had on before. Also the worst vibration is at 80km an hour but like i said it comes and goes. Will it get better?
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OK, I got the message, ran the tests, all is well. Now how do I clear the message? It's a 2013 F350 6.7PSD.
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