Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 F250 - Low Battery And CEL
Jun 9, 2015
2013 F250. Wife turned the ignition on to roll up the windows before the storm (good thing), but left the switch on. Both batteries dead. I charged them both (although not completely). Started OK but have a check engine light on. Should I just put the batteries back on charge?
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty and something keeps draining my battery, I replaced the old one and im having the same problem. What could it be?
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My 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
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I have a 2013 F350 SRW diesel. What is the expected life of the original batteries?
In the owners manual, (page 319) there is a long process to "reprogram" the computer after a battery replacement. It does mention "E85" and similar gas phrases. The diesel has no such discussion.
Is this reprogram for gas engines only or do I need to do it on my diesel as well?
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Like the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
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So two weeks ago I had a battery melt on me and I replaced it. Then last week I had the other battery almost blow up on me (it was a mess and smoking). I didnt use it all weekend. Today it started right up. I drove it like 500 feet and it just died. It is very weird. Both batteries are fully charged. Relay is good. When I put in the key it does nothing. No sound no radio no clicking. However, the gps still works (the online monitoring kind). I can fold in my out revie mirrors. And I can lock and unlock the doors. and the interior overhead lights come on. Nothing else has power at all. And I can't put it in neutral. Right now the truck is blocking my driveway so nothing can get in or our of here. I am wondering if it is some type of antitheft issue...
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Background: Some inconsiderate fellow manually collapsed my mirror for me and now it will not fully swing open. I can force it, but will not lock in the full open position. I'm sure the locking mechanism is jammed or worse broke, who knows.
I've removed the mirror from the vehicle but am not sure how to get to the inner motors without breaking something.
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I just bought a used 2013 F-250 4x4 and it came with the snow plow pkg. heavy duty front springs. I love the truck, but won't be plowing with it, and I don't need the rough ride (and don't like the look of the front end higher than the rear)
How hard is it to swap out the front coil springs and replace them with the "regular" ones?
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I have 1700 miles on my truck and the A/C cycles between cold and warm air. I have taken it to 2 Ford dealers and they agree there is something wrong but their tests are apparently up to Ford specs. They logged complaints with Ford and they were told this was by design with the new trucks and it was normal for the compressor to constantly cycle. New 2013??
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I've got a 2005 F250, and I found a good deal on a 2013 tailgate in town. Just wanted to make sure a 2013 tailgate will fit a 2005 before I go through with this.
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I have a new 2013 f 250 gaser the truck I noticed sits crooked it is lower on drivers side by almost 2 inches and not from the fuel tank.
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I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2 L. While driving the vehicle the exhaust sounds nice and throaty. When I put the truck in neutral and rev it, it's quiet, you can barely hear it. Is this normal?
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2004 F250 v10 xtl 260xxx. Started off by using my remote start, truck started up ran for about 5 sec then shut off, then restart itself and shut back off. When I manually started it, it ran fine. I noticed my battery light was on and as I was driving it would flicker. First thing I did when I got home was clean all my connections to see if that worked. Battery light still on, checked my volts on my battery and they were at about 11.8 with a slow but steady drop while truck was idling.then checked my alt, that too was at about 11.9 with a stead drop.
Alt was only about 7 months old and I had a warranty on it so I had it replaced at Napa and had them test it there. Good alt. Installed the new alt charged up my battery and turned it over. Battery light still on and flickering. Checked all my wires for corrosion, checked all my grounds. Everything checked out. Checked my battery again 12.4 with the truck off, cranked it over and it was back at 11.9 with a steady drop and almost the same reading with the alt. I replaced the battery as well yesterday, seeing how it was about 7 years old.
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I was driving and all of a sudden the radio died, battery light came on, Power windows and interior lights died, gauges died speedometer went all the way up to 100. The Head lights, turn signals and heater work. When I got home I opened the hood and the battery was boiling.
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Took in the alternator to get it checked and they said it was good. Put it back on and it seemed like it was charging according to my volt meter (14.24-13.5 v)
Today, it's not charging. Only reads 12.2 v while running. Is there a fuse or something I need to check? Grounds? It seems intermittent.
2003 F-250 V10 6.8 liter 255,000 miles.
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I have a 2003 f250 super duty with a v10
i was towing a trailer up and down lots of hills and the battery light on the dash came on. there was no effect on the performance right away. as i kept driving into town i was starting to worry if i would make it.
as i pulled into the carls jr parking lot, the ABS light came on, all the gauges shut off and the truck died just as i pulled into a parking spot.
i figured it was the alternator, had it tested at AutoZone (failed twice) so i swapped it out for a lifetime warranty AutoZone one (very small town, nothing other than an AutoZone)
the truck started after being jumped but the battery light was still on. i figured that the bad alternator killed the battery. the battery was 4 years old and they usually only last 3 years in the AZ heat so i bought a new duralast gold.
the battery light was STILL on after that. the Autozone guy ran his test--- engine off- battery tested fine starting---he said something was wrong with the starter (but it cranked awesomely!) running--alternator tested fine
i just can figure out why when i drive down the road i dash light will turn on and off at random times. the truck seems to run fine. I've even been under the hood shaking the wire while i had someone watching the dash and i cant seem to make the light go on or off
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I have a 2006 F-250 5.4L (6spd manual). I would like to add a second battery. It would be a purely auxiliary battery for radio use, and would be connected to a battery isolator. It would likely be a 33AH SLA, and starting capabilities are not required.
Any clean way to mount a second battery under the hood? On the driver's side, directly above the wheel well, there is an adequate amount of room for a second battery, and there are even tapped holes that seem to have identical spacing to the ones for the factory battery tray.
This leads me to believe that some version of this truck is offered with a second battery (the Powerstroke, maybe?). The local Ford stealership was all but useless, which is pretty standard. They have a solid reputation of not giving a crap about you unless you want to purchase a brand new vehicle with dealership financing.
What is the part number for a second, driver's side battery tray? I really am NOT interested in any kind of solution under than under the hood (no frame rails, or relocation to the bed).
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My 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
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What the expected life cycle is for the fold in/out feature of the power mirrors? I garage my truck and need to fold mirrors when backing in and then unfold once out of the garage--looking at 2 in/out cycles per trip from the house. How long until the motor gasps and dies?
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I picked up a 2013 F250 back in Sept. currently about 5k miles. I've had in the shop twice. Once for a loud moonroof vibration when idling and just recently another for a PCM update(Engine light came on).
Here's the problem...
Something odd happened when I drove about a 1/4 mile... The dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and gave every error known to man. All dashboard lights came on, parking break, engine light, etc. Then the computer dash gave an AdvanceTrac Error, Oil pressure low and something else I can't recall. All my gauges went dead, including the Speedometer. Mind you, this was while driving... The only gauge working was the fuel gauge.
Turned the truck off, back on, everything works as normal. The truck has not showed any issues since (2 days of short distance drives).
I called the Service Dept and spoke with my guy. He never heard of this before and kind of wrote it off... Said, they won't be able to figure out unless it happens while they have it. This doesn't sound right to me.
My nose is pointing at the PCM update or a possible grounding issue.
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Having trouble with a shutter upon take off in there drive train. It only happens when I am going straight. It does not do it when I am turning or anything. I just bought the truck used sat. It has around 18000 miles on it. I haven't had a chance to put a load on it yet to see if it does it then.
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