I just bought a used 2013 F-250 4x4 and it came with the snow plow pkg. heavy duty front springs. I love the truck, but won't be plowing with it, and I don't need the rough ride (and don't like the look of the front end higher than the rear)
How hard is it to swap out the front coil springs and replace them with the "regular" ones?
As the title says are my front leaf springs bad? I got this truck 2 years ago and replaced all the ball joints, shocks, sway bar links,front hubs, rotors and brakes along with all the seals. I have a clunk in the front and I can't figure out what it's coming from. Could my leaf springs be clacking together? Truck
is a 2000 F250 SD v10.....
Driverside front
Rear spring
I just put some toyo at2 295.75.16. On my 04 250. And I've got some rubbing on the plastic and front leaf springs. If a 2.5 " spring left will take care of the rubbing or will I need wheel spacers.
View 3 RepliesI got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
View 12 RepliesMy 2013 f-250 with 6500mi. has peeling paint on the front differential and the axle.. I sprayed it with some fluid film for now.
View 14 Replies03 f350 4x4. New front calipers and pads.
Wondering if there's a 'trick' to getting the front brake pads into the caliper . Those damn springs kept popping out. I'd get three of the four ends into place in the pad holes then one would pop out while I'm trying to get the fourth in.
After about a hour of trying every different way that I could think of, another set of hands came by and with four hands holding things in place, it finally did the trick.
Actually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
View 4 RepliesJust moved into the 250 from years of 150's. Now have 98 miles and read that the tran would have noise but normal while breaking in.
whats normal, not used to this much Clunk while changing from P to D ect. More noise than used too I guess.
3.73 gears
2014 F250, 6.2 gas 2wd....
I just bought this Super Duty with a 5.4L engine. I want to do a fluid change on the transmission. From what I read, this transmission needs to be hot flushed in order to change out all the fluid. I have not called my dealer yet to see if they do hot flushes. If my local dealer does not have this machine, can I just drop the old fluid from the pan and be ok? I have not gotten under the truck yet to see if it has an external filter.
View 6 RepliesSo I'm off work today, and want to service the transmission. I've got both filters, and a 18 quarts of SP, but am not familiar with this transmission, and understand there's no drain plug for the converter. Want to get all of the fluid out, best I can. I'm at 153,000 on this truck with no issues. I do not desire to flush, just want a fluid change.
Searching the forums brings up a lengthy list of transmission threads, but nothing yet that gives me the step-by-step.
Changing from manual windows to power? I don't want to swap doors because of the repaint issue but wondered what is involved, if it's even possible. I just read how to convert the rear windows on a Super Cab to power and it got me wondering about the front.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 F250 has been having issues with the radio. Its been randomly changing stations and volume. I think its due to moisture in the dash. Its stops when I run the heater thru the dash vents.
View 1 RepliesOn the surface, the F-250/350 seems to have great brakes: big rotors, vented front and rear, and dual-piston calipers front and rear. But, I have two problems:
One is the annoying 'grunt' the brakes make every time you change from Park to Drive, or Park to Reverse, or Drive to Reverse. Its as if under normal brake pressure, the brakes cannot hold the truck from moving against the torque convertor engaging. It's not just my truck, I've heard older SD's with the 5.4L or diesel do this too. If you push the pedal really hard, it won't grunt.
The second problem I think is the root of the first: mushy brakes. Maybe I'm just used to driving european cars with firm brakes, but every time I apply my truck's brakes, it feels like I need to bleed the system! The truck does slow pretty well, and I realize it's heavy, but how can the pedal feel be improved? Maybe replacing the rubber sections with braided stainless?
Lastly, the truck has a 'hill-hold' feature which is retarded in an automatic transmission. My problem with it, is that sometimes it sticks on...engage drive, the truck won't move...a second later its like something gets unstuck and the truck kind of lurches forward.
I have a 99 f250 with some procomp (325s) that are 12.5 wide with a 6in lift my superchip tuner can change the trannys shift points but I am pretty sure a new gear ratio is needed. I dont do a whole lot of off roading with it its mainly my driving around and highway rig whats a good gear ratio that would work for me
View 9 RepliesMy truck is a 2008 F250 6.4 Powerstroke 4x4 King Ranch, CrewCab, Shortbed.
I don't know which rear axle ratio it has - maybe someone can help me. the tires mounted are 275/60R17 and in fifth gear (TC locked) the engine has 2000rpm @ 70mph. I think it is a bit to much so I want to install a kit with and lower ratio. I pull trailers just sometimes and here in germany these only have 3,5tons max weight. So I think I don't need this power at 70mph. 1750rpm would be enough. How do I have to modify the front axle ratio if I get a lower-ratio-rear-axle?
I want to lower the fuel consumption. After some modifications, the truck needs round about 12-13L/100km (18-20mpg) and I think it is possible to lower this as bit.
Last night was changing front driver's side shock on my 2011 F250 PSD. Right front wheel still on ground and needed to turn wheel to right to better access shock mount. Started truck and turned the wheel all the way to the right and took the key out thinking the wheel would lock and I could change the shock easier. But the wheel didn't lock and actually spun itself almost a full turn after I took the key out...I'm assuming because the right wheel was still on the ground providing resistance, but I think the wheel lock may have broken.
Finished the shock and went to start, but nothing. Everything is clicking and buzzing like normal but wouldn't turn over. Checked all fuses that seemed pertinent but none were bad. Wasn't able to check any relays. Gave up and was going to have it towed.
Son and I had to straighten the wheel so I could roll in down the driveway and the dang thing started after the wheel was straight! Thought it was a fluke and parked it. This morning did the same thing so I cranked the wheel to the right and it started again. Now at work and thought I better check again and I can't get it to start for anything. The steering wheel lock seems to be busted and now I'm thinking it could be something in the steering column, but this is a little above my pay grade.
Need to get home tonight and was hoping my description would be enough to make a for sure diagnosis. Otherwise its getting towed to the shop and I'd rather fix it myself if i can.
So went back out and tried starting in neutral again, but this time fiddled with the shifter while turning the key...nothing again. Ran it up into park and tried it again and it started! Last night and this morning I didn't mess at all with the shifter, just manually turned the wheel with the engine off. This is the first time moving the shifter worked and I didn't turn the wheel at all this last time.
I'm in the process of changing oil seals on my dually front end. Do I need to worry about backlash settings? I see the gears are attached with solid brackets, which I assume, as just torque to spec and not worry about backlash. What is the torque spec for the four bolts holding the gears/yoke in place?
View 2 Replies02 f250 SD...I need to change the front corner turn signal bulb... How the hell do I get to it? I see the grey plug that I need to take off in between the bottom of the light and bumper but have no clue how to get to it..and what is the bulb number?
View 8 RepliesIs there a way to change the bulb without removing the grill and headlight? Seems like a lot of work to replace a bulb. 2013 F350....
View 3 Replies2013 F250. Wife turned the ignition on to roll up the windows before the storm (good thing), but left the switch on. Both batteries dead. I charged them both (although not completely). Started OK but have a check engine light on. Should I just put the batteries back on charge?
View 5 RepliesMy 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
View 3 Replies