Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 F250 - Amber Beacon Wire Routing
Oct 26, 2013
I have a 2013 F250 that I am installing a amber warning beacon on. I need to be able to get the end of the electrical cable into the cab of the truck but it has a 12 volt lighter plug on the end that cannot come off. Is there a rubber plug somewhere in the cab that I can route the cable through?
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I'm installing a new amber light on my 2013 F250 signal cab and was wondering where most people run the wires into the cab. It has a magnetic mount and I didn't want to put a hole in the roof. I have a cap on the truck and I also don't have a sliding rear window. This will not be a temp. install. Putting the wires in through a hole in the 3rd brake light?
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Trying to find ground wire location on my 99 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton I didn't unbolt it myself. Going to be doing the big 3 upgrade soon and would like to use the factory ground spots.
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I have a 1999 Ford F-250 superduty single cab. I am trying to put in rear speakers into the stock speaker housing but there are no wires run to the area. Where are the wires located in the dash to run the wire from?
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What color wire controls the high beams?
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I'm putting a new double din stereo w/ backup camera in my truck, I have everything wired except the violet/white wire (from the stereo) that needs to be hooked to a wire (on the truck) that will activate the camera when you put it in reverse. I cannot figure where this wire is on the 2012 for the life of me.
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I 2000 f250 throughout a few years.
Anyways, I recently aquired a tekonsha voyager (for free) and went to install it, but have run into a problem with the installation.
I searched to find a wire color guide to figure out what wires are which on the under dash connector, but cannot find the answer I'm searching for.
Currently I have a red, green, blue, brown, and yellow wire on the underdash connector, while the tekonsha only has red, white, blue, and black. (I know what colors do what on the controller, but am completly lost on the under dash plug, and can't trace it back without tearing out the entire dash assembly.
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I have a 2006 F250 and my 7pin and 4 pin connectors are just hanging loose. I'm not sure what happened to the factory bracket. What is the part number for this bracket? Also, where does it mount to? I looked under the truck and couldnt tell where the factory one mounts.
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I am looking into replacing my cab light bulbs with amber led's. What ones do you recommend? There are so many available out there. I don't want some cheap crap! Also, what is the bulb type in are in the mirrors for the parking light and turn signal?
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2013 F250. Wife turned the ignition on to roll up the windows before the storm (good thing), but left the switch on. Both batteries dead. I charged them both (although not completely). Started OK but have a check engine light on. Should I just put the batteries back on charge?
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My 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
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Background: Some inconsiderate fellow manually collapsed my mirror for me and now it will not fully swing open. I can force it, but will not lock in the full open position. I'm sure the locking mechanism is jammed or worse broke, who knows.
I've removed the mirror from the vehicle but am not sure how to get to the inner motors without breaking something.
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I just bought a used 2013 F-250 4x4 and it came with the snow plow pkg. heavy duty front springs. I love the truck, but won't be plowing with it, and I don't need the rough ride (and don't like the look of the front end higher than the rear)
How hard is it to swap out the front coil springs and replace them with the "regular" ones?
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I have 1700 miles on my truck and the A/C cycles between cold and warm air. I have taken it to 2 Ford dealers and they agree there is something wrong but their tests are apparently up to Ford specs. They logged complaints with Ford and they were told this was by design with the new trucks and it was normal for the compressor to constantly cycle. New 2013??
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I've got a 2005 F250, and I found a good deal on a 2013 tailgate in town. Just wanted to make sure a 2013 tailgate will fit a 2005 before I go through with this.
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I have a new 2013 f 250 gaser the truck I noticed sits crooked it is lower on drivers side by almost 2 inches and not from the fuel tank.
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I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2 L. While driving the vehicle the exhaust sounds nice and throaty. When I put the truck in neutral and rev it, it's quiet, you can barely hear it. Is this normal?
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What the expected life cycle is for the fold in/out feature of the power mirrors? I garage my truck and need to fold mirrors when backing in and then unfold once out of the garage--looking at 2 in/out cycles per trip from the house. How long until the motor gasps and dies?
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I picked up a 2013 F250 back in Sept. currently about 5k miles. I've had in the shop twice. Once for a loud moonroof vibration when idling and just recently another for a PCM update(Engine light came on).
Here's the problem...
Something odd happened when I drove about a 1/4 mile... The dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and gave every error known to man. All dashboard lights came on, parking break, engine light, etc. Then the computer dash gave an AdvanceTrac Error, Oil pressure low and something else I can't recall. All my gauges went dead, including the Speedometer. Mind you, this was while driving... The only gauge working was the fuel gauge.
Turned the truck off, back on, everything works as normal. The truck has not showed any issues since (2 days of short distance drives).
I called the Service Dept and spoke with my guy. He never heard of this before and kind of wrote it off... Said, they won't be able to figure out unless it happens while they have it. This doesn't sound right to me.
My nose is pointing at the PCM update or a possible grounding issue.
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Having trouble with a shutter upon take off in there drive train. It only happens when I am going straight. It does not do it when I am turning or anything. I just bought the truck used sat. It has around 18000 miles on it. I haven't had a chance to put a load on it yet to see if it does it then.
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I have after market chrome wheel and stock brake pads. The brake pad dust is corroding the chrome. Is their a brake pad I can use so it doesn't happen? Ive been told ceramic pads is the way to go.. The wheels are RBPs. Have a new set of RBPs coming in to replace, also what about pad covers? I tow a 29' boat and the rest is highway miles..
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