Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 - Engine Fan Running All The Time?
Jan 4, 2017
Noticed the other day that the engine fan on my 2013 6.2powered F250 runs all the time. It's like it has two speeds- really fast where you can hear it running with the hood closed and a slightly slower speed where it still turns fast enough that you can't make out the individual blades. Is this normal with outside temps in the single digits.
ETA. it does this with the heater off also.I've noticed since it's cooled down this winter that when I slow down to drive through town or hit a stop sign my coolant temp needle drops a bit. Thought maybe the fan running is overcooling the engine or maybe it's always done that and I've just never noticed it before.
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Just bought an 02 Super Duty 7.3 that has day time running light. Is there a way to disable this feature?
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Looking for some info on wiring up some Day Lights Running Lights on a 2016 F250 with diesel engine? Thinking of adding LED lights to front of vehicle for day time use.
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I just bought this truck,2013 f250 CC Lariat 4x4. The sliding rear windows opened and closed 1 time and has never done it again. I have read about the motor and cable setup breaking and needing to be replaced. I do not think that is the issue. I have also read that the channel the window runs in needs to be lubricated on a regular basis. I was going to try that first. What is the recommended lube for these window channels?
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My 2007 f250 power stroke 6.0. My A/C comp went out. After replacing it I was told that my fan clutch is bad and will cause the new ac to go out. My engine is not running hot. The fan still spins for a while after engine is turned off.
1) Could it have not been re installed correctly?
2) How do I know my Fan Clutch is bad?
3) How do I replace it myself?
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Lately my 2001 F250 5.4 engine is running rough when I am accelerating or keeping it certain speed. It feels like it is jerking. Like if the truck lost power for a second. This will go on for few minutes. Where to start to trouble shoot.
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I have a 2013 f-350 with 58,000 miles. I'm a general contractor and drove my truck to a very nice home with decorative concrete. After I left the customers house they called my office to say I left oil stains on their driveway. I looked under the hood and noticed motor oil leaking on the front left side of the engine. I told the customer we will take care of the stain. I've never had a diesel motor leak this soon on me.
My mechanic told me to go to a Ford dealer so I did. The dealer told me that this is not covered under the warranty as it is a oil pump/brake vacuum. THE MOTOR IS LEAKING OIL. I told the dealer that the motor is leaking oil and I have a warranty that I signed up for. He told me that Ford considers this issue the same thing as an alternator.
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2002 F-250 SD V10 Auto Trans 140K miles.....
Engine ran fine until battery died. Vehicle then sat from Nov to May with no battery in it. On start up now after install of new battery, engine initially surged at idle and seemed to miss (run rough) in gear/under load. No CEL or codes. After a single short drive idle and running under load seemed to have improved a bit, but not yet back to what I would call normal.
QUESTIONS:
Is this simply a matter of the computer having to relearn after battery disconnect?
Will driving restore things back to where they were/should be?
How much driving/How far?
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I have a 1999 F250 SD V10 4x4. I recently had a transmission installed and the truck is running erratic. I have an engine miss (sometimes when idling, more so when in drive and foot on the brake). I say sometimes because there are times it will not miss and the engine runs smooth. The transmission shifts a little strange and sometimes hard.
I am getting a code reading that says my TPS is faulty, but I installed a new one a few months back.
The engine is running rough (jerky on acceleration) especially when driving. I was wondering if I should take it to a shop and have them flash the computer to reset it?
I also remove the AC compressor a while back (bad clutch). I installed an aftermarket pulley.
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I have an 02 f250 5.4. I just did the intake manifold. I also changed the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket. Following this I drained the oil and filled it with fresh oil.
It started right up but it felt like the engine was really vibrating and running rough. The check engine light than came on. I don't have one of those tools to diagnose it.
What could be wrong?
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With my windows up I occasionally get a slight whiff or smell of gasoline with the engine running. Doesn't matter if A/C is on or off. I crawled all under the truck and can't see any fuel dripping. (2005 5.4)
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My 1999 F350 SD V10 that would crank but not start. I ended up checking numerous things because before it decided to truly stop running, it would run rough for a time and then be fine. The check Engine Light came on and I got the codes P0171 & P0174. Well, I bought MAF Cleaner and took the air cleaner housing off, disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned the sensor and replaced the air cleaner. I continued to get those same error codes, but before I could go any further, the truck totally died. It sat for nearly 2 months with the bed in the air as I had decided to lift the bed to check the fuel pump vs. drop the tank.
Fast forward a bit and I have since replaced the fuel pump and put $40 of Premium Gas along with Royal Purple Fuel Treatment in the tank because I figured things got stirred up and could use a bit of cleaning. I do not drive much, and during the first few trips, it ran perfectly. Then today, it started again with the rough running and trying to die if I let it idle. If I pushed on the gas, it would completely smooth out. If this were a carbureted engine, I would think the low idle was set too low, but since it is not, I am guessing it is one or more of the sensor/s that is/are causing the issue.
I am disabled and can’t play parts swap until I hit on the right part, so I was hoping that I might get some guidance here to narrow things down to the most probably causes so that I won’t go broke changing things until I hit the “right one”. The truck has 153,000 miles on it and I had bought it from a retired couple who used it to pull their 5th wheel travel trailer, so it had mostly highway miles on it. It was immaculate when I bought it and ran perfectly, needing only normal maintenance (oil changes, etc.) over the past 12 years that I have owned it. In those 12 years, I have put about 60,000 miles on it.
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Just this morning I tried to remote start my '13 F250 6.7 and all i got was the doors lock and a two honks. The two honks are usually when there is a door left open when you click the lock button two times but all of my doors were locked. After I started the truck with the key and took it out to go run a errand I noticed the check engine light turned on. Could this be connected or just a coincidence?
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The truck has 64k miles and has developed a small leak on the engine side of the radiator with no apparent damage. There is no variation on the pressure test and the dealer was able to find the very small leak with dye in the system. It has lowered by about 3/4 of a gallon of coolant over the last couple of months. There are no visible signs of a leak but you smell the coolant when you stop the truck.
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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To make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
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I have a 2009 F350 and use it almost exclusively for towing. Every time I stop to fill up or eat or whatever I have to push the tow haul button again when I start the truck- no big deal really just annoying at times because I don't always remember to turn it back on. Is there a way to have it turn on with the button and not turn off until I push it again (even after the trucks been turned off)? I suppose while we're on the subject same with the heated seats?
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My truck was in 4x4 and would squeal all the time on and off. Here is the situation today, this has happened prior but i just didn't post on here until it lasted for 30 miles on the highway.
4x4 system:
-MM hubs
-all stock minus the hubs
-Pass side vac hose melted against tire (doesn't matter with the MM hubs but too much info is not a bad thing)
-Replaced u-joints in November
-the screeching when not engaged predates the MM hubs that i installed, it occurred when i had my auto hubs locked last year because they would not disengage
Trip:
-average of 45mph
-30 miles from NH to MA (route 3)
-truck was operating up to temp
When it occurs:
-Under Acceleration
-15-45 mph
- when going from stop-30 it makes a hollow tapping noise instead of the screech
- when hubs are locked and t-case is NOT engaged it screeches for about 1 miles and then stops
Sound in the video occurs within the first 8 seconds, its faint in he video but very loud in person. Highway didn't look that bad in the video but i was in a plowed sctretch other than that the last 25 miles were through about an inch of snow and slush.
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Just did my first oil change on my 2015 Super Duty 6.2 engine. I got the Fram filter the book called for, a PH-2. There's goobs of room for the longer filter. Would that be the PH8A? The book is about to trying to figure the comparable long vs short filter. Why do they insist on those short filters when a full size will fit? My Dodge Ram Hemi was the same way.
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Actually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
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My truck threw a check engine yesterday, P1151 and P1152. What could be the problem? 04 f350 with 5.4 with 142,xxx on her
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