Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2012 - Strong Wind Noise After 60?
Aug 31, 2017
I have a 2012 250 Lariat and seem to be experiencing a lot of wind noise. The noise doesn't seem to start until about 60 mph and then from there it gets much worse. If I am driving about 70 sometimes you can hardly carry on a conversation in the truck. I am wondering if this is normal for these trucks and if the noise usually comes from the windshield or the side windows, it is hard to tell where the noise is coming from here.
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I have a 2012 F250 XLT crew cab, longbed truck. My problem is wind noise, it seems to come from the windshield directly in front of the driver side. I plan to use some blue tape to cover the area to see if I can find the problem.
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I just bought a 2009 F250, I am getting a wind noise that I can't figure out where it is coming from. It only happens when I'm going at least 70 and into the wind. It is a short flute sounding noise that is intermittent.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10 5-speed that I've had for about 3 years with 60,000 miles on it that I drive about once a week. About 4 months ago I stopped at a convenience store for 3 minutes and when I came out truck wouldn't start. Turned over strong had fuel rail pressure but wouldn't start. Had it towed home and was going to investigate the next day but the problem was gone.
2 months ago I stopped to get gas and went into the store and came back out and everything was dead-no audible with key and door open, not instrument cluster lights....as if it didn't even have a battery in it. I pulled the negative cable from the battery for a couple of minutes and put it back on and it started back working. It worked until 2 days ago and had the same problem with everything electrical being dead and removing and replacing the negative cable brought it back to life as before.
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Not at the exhaust, but from the engine compartment. Have to open the windows at a stoplight. Can also smell it when I walk past the parked truck. What's up?
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I bought a 2001 F250 V10. When I first started it cold at the dealer that I bought it from, it cranked for a couple seconds and didn't start. I cranked it again and it caught and started right up. I figured it probably had to do with the truck sitting for a while with no one looking at it.
The next week of driving it, I never had any issues with it not starting on the first try.
1,900 miles later, it's sitting in my driveway in Minneapolis. It's Thursday and I haven't driven it since Sunday. I go out to start it, it cranks and catches, then immediately dies. Subsequent tries to start only result in cranking with no hint of catching. I've given it a few minutes to cool off between attempts and still nothing.
It's 24 degrees out. I'm not sure what weight oil is in the motor. It's got a full tank of fresh gas that was purchased here in Minneapolis. The battery is strong, as it's cranking really fast.
I've just come over from a 93 F250 Diesel, where I might expect problems starting at this temperature, but issues from a gas engine surprise me. What this might be? I bought this truck to be more reliable than my 93 that had 276k miles on it. This one is only a baby with 80k miles.
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Just got a 99 super duty and I have a very weird problem. When stopping i feel a very strong pulsing from the brake pedal. I assumed warped rotor. but the strange part is when I hit the brake the cab dome light comes on. How to locate this pulsating?
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My 2000 f250 4x4 V10 5spd manual with LSD and 63k mi gets an intermittent but very strong vibration like a shuddering, growling, rumbling in 2WD. The 1st time it only lasted about 1 second. It had been making a swooshing noise that sounded like front left wheel bearing for several thousand miles before this, so i replaced bearing assembly even though it turned smoothly.
After that, It still made the exact same swooshing noise and after a couple miles at 45mph, it had the strong vibration/shudder that lasted about 3 seconds. I stopped and locked the hubs manually. The vibration happened again in a couple miles, so seems like it's not the needle bearings in front stub shafts or locking hubs. On that last occurrence, the vibe went on for 5 seconds, felt the same with clutch in, and went away only after truck slowed down to nearly a stop. I've driven it about 6 mi total since the 1st occurrence.
Front right Wheel bearings feel smooth. I unbolted the driveshaft support bearing and it spins smoothly. The front u-joint maybe had a tiny bit of play, all bolts tight. I didn't check the nuts for yokes, but it didn't look like yokes had any play. Drive shaft slip joint moves smoothly. No up-down play at pinion shaft input into rear diff and output from transfer case. Rear diff oil was full with a little bit of silvery sludge on the magnetic filler plug, maybe 1/10 of a cc, no metals slivers or chunks. I raised the rear wheels and ran 5th gear 2WD at idle (~30mph) and touched a 4' listening stick to the drivetrain components.
The only odd sounds were from the rear differential. It sounded like a bad bearing with random crunches and thuds mixed in with the normal whirring. Crunches and thuds were loudest at front of diff housing. I blocked one wheel and repeated in 3rd gear. You could hear noise like gears meshing (noisy spider gears? maybe was LSD clutches?). The differential was warm after 5-10 minutes, with the hottest area being about 3" from the front of diff, just before the housing widens.
So, I'm guessing the pinion bearing is bad and the intermittent shudder is the bearing race spinning in the case when bearing seizes.
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My 2002 F-250 v-10 sat for over a month with me in the hospital for spinal reconstructive surgery. Battery was dead but has been charged and tested as good. The truck cranks strong but will not turnover. I am unable to do other diagnosis, what might be the problem.
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Shade tree mechanic, new to diesels and new to forum. I have the dreaded 03' 6.0 F350. It cranks over strong but will not start after its warmed up. I went to Auto Zone and they gave me the following codes: P2291, P132B, P0672, P0402, P0284. Once it's started it runs fine.
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So I drive a 2012 F250 6.2L and recently I've been hearing this rattling noise, kinda like a bag of washers being tossed about. I thought it was the snap brackets for the fog lights cause I removed my fogs and the brackets were loose enough to jingle so I zip tied them and it seemed like the rattle stopped, however, coming home the other day I hit a pothole and the rattle jingle noise happened again. I've checked most of the front end making sure all is tight which it is
Update: There were some lose snap bolts and brackets I'd missed so I took them off but no luck. I have come to the conclusion however the noise only occurs when the suspension is compressed. I figured this out by having my 300lb friend stand on the bumper and then I hit the coils with a mallet and I could hear the rattling noise and no I was not mistaking the coil vibration for the rattle noise.
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OK so I have a 2010 6.4 fully deleted. I have noticed that after driving my truck and parking it there is a strong coolant odor but no steam or visible leaks. the truck runs as good as ever and I can't seem to find the source.
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2012 F-250, it sounds like a rock or something in my left front brake cover?? I only hear it when I come to a stop or just start out, sounds like a stone or something coming to rest like if you had a stone in a drying machine coming to rest when you shut it off. But I don't hear it at all over 10mph?
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My 2012 f250 6.7 has what sounds like a chain spinning when idling when you give it fuel it quiets down.
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New 2012 SD - Is it normal? Going over road bumps, etc causes a metallic sound, kind of like you had some loose metal in the bed bounding around...except it does it when the bed is empty. At first, I thought spare tire...but it is tight. Springs making noise? My father's 2011 F-150 does not make any noise.
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Just got my 2008 F250 SD and am thinking about removing the FX4 decal and the tinted pieces that go over the tops of the windows on the doors. Also want to remove the marker lights on top of the cab or maybe switch them from yellow to red (truck is red) so they blend in a little better. No "hate" to the folks running these options just not my style.
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I have a 2004 f250 6.8L and recently I've notice the trick not running strong. Is hesitating when i step on the gas pedal. For example, I am driving on the feeder road and fixing to get on the freeway ramp, well i have to spent a bit harder on has pedal to gain speed, but it seems its struggling and I can hear muffler making like a flapping noise. Also when I am going between 40-65mph and I spent on it, the tricks kind of jerks and vibrates. Feels like its coming from transmission. I let go and step on it again and it goes away. What to check??
Miles : 96k
Year: 2004
No Check Engine Light
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On my way home today I heard wind coming in around my drivers side power window. Its not seating itself straight in the weather stripping. The window is tilted toward the front of the truck. Do I need a new regulator? Or maybe re- epoxy glass to bracket? The window still operates, its just crooked. Also I haven't had those door panels off before..
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I own a 2012 F350 dually King Ranch with 6,600 miles on it as of today. I noticed that on slight inclines, I can see and feel the hill start assist feature activating and working as before. I was not towing anything today. Starting today though, I hear this loud creaking noise both in forward and reverse directions with quite a bit of shutter from front of the truck lasting one to two seconds as I transition from the brake to accelerator. I checked the front hubs to make sure that they are not in locked position. I tried activating 4WD auto mode, then deactivate it to 2WD mode as I watched the diagram/figure on the dashboard. Nothing would make the loud creaking noise and shutter go away. Is there anything else I can try, or should I take it back to my Ford dealer again (now for another different reason. I had problem with injector #8 failure with CEL come on earlier this week which appears to be fixed for now)???
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So I'm going to be putting a deposit on a 2012 6.7 dually tomorrow after work. It has about 40k miles 2800 hrs 1400 idling. It looks perfect. Drives good, sounds good except for a bit of a whirring noise occasionally under the drivers side floor (fuel pump maybe?)
For warranty I still have the remaining 2 yrs, and the miles left. I am going to try to get them to give me 5 more years on the powertrain. Before I pass the check is there anything I should specifically look for? It is a beautiful truck ....
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Purchased my 2012 6.7 about 3 weeks ago. Driving yesterday the CEL light came on. I took and had the code read and it was determined that EGT sensor # 4 was bad. Also how far can it be driven before it leaves you stranded since the closest dealer is 35 miles away.
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