My Son drives a 2012 6.7, and just recently it started overheating bu only under acceleration? It runs cool while idling, and once you reach the desired speed, it cools back down, but under acceleration it overheats? We've checked the obvious (coolant etc...), but can't figure out what it would do this only under acceleration?
View 6 RepliesIm running an 2008 F-450. And towing a goose neck trailer with the total weight of 12,000, including the car in tow. We were traveling from Cleveland to Columbus last week. Traveling south down Rt. 71. Which has some subtle gradient here and there. But nothing extreme. I haven't tried any mountain runs yet. when i started noticing the temp gauge climbing from middle normal range to high normal.
It would then kick out the cruise control. It would cool off after about 5 minutes of slower driving. We were only traveling at 65 mph. Outside temp was about 78 degrees. I shut off the A/C and it seemed to improve. Should it be over heating like this. The capacity of the 450 is 25,000. I am at half that right now. Are these truck prone to heating problems. And if so. Is there a high performance supplement cooling system.
I have a 2008 powerstroke. Dpf and egr have been fully deleted. SCT tuner seems great and have had no issues since installed 6 months ago. I recently hooked up to my camper and headed up a mountain pass. As soon as I started uphill the engine overheated. I allowed it to cool and tried again with the same result. Eventually had to unhook and have another 6.4 (this one being a 2010) pull the trailer the rest of the way. Haven't had any heating issues since unhooking.
View 7 RepliesI have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home.
All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
My 1999 f-250 superduty shows overheating after it runs for awhile but it doesn't actually overheat the gauge just shows it. What it does is drops down to four cylinders. Is my heads blown or could it be something else it has 260,000 on the engine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 with the 5.4l. I got home today and a lot of steam was coming from under the hood. I couldn't see where it was coming from. I see a reflection on top of the engine near the intake manifold. The truck is not overheating and the heater is working great. I changed the thermostat several months ago. What the issue may be. I checked the dip stick and not visible signs of water in the oil. What this could be? Is there something besides the visible thermostat housing that may have blown a gasket?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 f-350 that overheated 2 months ago I replaced the radiator...it seemed fine for a month then started blowing cold air then would start to overheat and back and forth so I replaced the thermosat.......but when i checked the old one with a cooking theromometer it was fine. not long after that the heater core started leaking so i replaced that..and now its back and forth overheating and blowing cold air....then fine for 1/2 hour..then back and forth again.. Truck has 250,000 miles on it
View 12 RepliesI have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
I have a 2001 excursion 7.3 4x4 with the 6.0L trans cooler. It is over heating when heavy, uphill towing is under way. I am guessing that my computer has been reprogramed at some point and more fuel is being injected than the radiator is designed to cool. I know my trans cooler is clean. I have tried cleaning the radiator and intercooler with a garden hose. I am considering a hood scoop or some sort of vents in the hood. When it over heats I turn on the heater and open the hood and the engine temps drop in just a few minutes so I believe that the engine needs more cooling or I need to slow down a bit on hills. Any other cheap fixes to get more air in to cool things under the hood more?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 f350 v10 stock truck. It has plenty of power when it's cold out or raining or I'm on backrooms or highways but if I drive through town on a hot day the transmission kicks bad I have changed the fluid and filter, it also seems to shift at a high rpm from 2nd to 3rd. Unless I you let off quick and go back on kinda like engaging a 2 speed rear end. Does it need a bigger trans cooler or is the trans shot
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f250 HD with the 460 and auto trans lifted on 38s the motor keeps over heating Im not shear what the problem is I checked the water and thermostat water pump is good when I bout it there is a trace of stop leak in the radiator not shear if that can do any thing.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 6.4 f-250. It has 139,00 Miles and I have a problem with the truck losing coolant and overheating on the interstate. When cruising 75-80 my truck will sometimes begin to puke coolant from the degas bottle and my cooling fan will begin to run. Engine coolant temp once spiked to 240 degrees before I could get off onto the shoulder. Around town the truck does fine although I do notice a loss of coolant but no overheating issues what so ever. I have the Dpf Deleted and Egr coolers are off. I run an H+S on a mild tune. Is there any other thing that could be wrong with this truck besides head gaskets? I am not looking forward flipping that bill. Trying the exhaust all other possibilities first.
View 3 RepliesFor the last few weeks I have noticed my transmission overheating a bit, nothing bad, but I have just been running around town local so no drives over about 15-20 mins.
Well, Friday night I went out to see a friends band play about 40 mins away, My trans temp climbed steadily the whole way out there, peaking at 226 by the time I got out there. I kinda took my time getting home hopping bars to give the trans a break to cool off.
Did some diagnosis today, first thing I did was unhook the line going to the rear of the transmission and did the bucket flow test. I fired it up and fluid came pouring out of the line which goes into the rear of the trans, nothing really came out of the rear of the trans, it was all out of the line.
So that tells me that its getting flow through the coolers. I didn't measure the amount like some do, but I can tell you it looked like a strong steady flow.
I made sure the fluid levels are proper as well which they are, it was maybe a 1 quart low which shouldn't effect anything. I also inspected the coolers and everything appears to be clean with no airflow restrictions. Took it out for a brief drive again and it climbed up to 147, maybe 5 miles out 5 miles back. Ambient temp is 62 today.
I am getting multiple codes on my Edge Evo which I have had set to stock settings since I bought the truck. Codes I get that concern me relevant to the trans are P0741 and P0743. Both seem to relate to the torque converter.
I feel like my RPMs are a bit to high at highways speeds so I am wondering if I have a TC that is slipping a bit while driving. I did notice a bit of a metallic pearl in the fluid that came out. Aside from that I feel like the trans is shifting ok, though sometimes I have to let off the gas to get it to shift into 4th.
I have 2000 ford f350 7.3 diesel. (Approx 95,000 mi). Tried to tow heavy wood chipper out of soft backyard, truck on angle because of grade. Put in low and second for better traction. After somewhat high engine rpm tires started to move me ahead until spinning occurred upon which I would immediately stop and try again (slowly). Next thing I know trans fluid on ground and truck steaming. Let cool down, refilled trans oil to proper level, unhooked heavy load. Fluid NO longer leaking, drive home fine (towing nothing). What are my next steps? Very concerned I've done grave damage!?
View 9 RepliesI just bought this truck for a pretty good price it has 225000 on it the engine was over heating. The guy put new rad, new water pump, new fan clutch, and a new heater core with thermostat. The truck still over heated so I pulled the thermostat to see what happens and the truck over heats even faster. All this happens while driving regardless of ac on or off. I got a motor and put a motor in it with all new pump and thermostat. I put new coolant in and flush radiator. I cut a hole in the cat to see if the cat was plugged for the truck seems to have low power and sputters. With in 1mile the truck over heated dumping all the coolant out of the system which the truck did as well before. Will the diesel rad work in this truck I have a diesel one I can put in since its a bigger rad?
View 14 RepliesMy truck all of the sudden started overheating when running idle or at low speeds. No towing or anything with 89 degrees outside it can hit max water temp in matter of 2 minutes once at running temperature and standing on red light. I checked the coolant level - looks good and changed the thermostat just in case, but the problem is still happening. The fan is running/kicking in as well when it gets hot.
I'm waiting for OBD2 plug to read the stats from the computer, but what else would you suggest I can check for issues ? Oil temp gets to about 222 and transmission to about 194, but it doesn't keep on increasing. One another thing I noticed is that when I have AC running it will actually pop a overheating message on the display (I don't continue to drive it at that point) and when it gets hot it seems as if it didn't have much power.
I don't know if this is connected, but about two months ago it started blowing black smoke when starting from red light or stop sign or when accelerating with gear reduction. It is a 6.7 diesel one and only has 60k miles on it, so I'm hoping its nothing major.
Okay here we go. 97 F250 HD with 460 and e4od.160,000 miles, MSD 8.5 Super Conductors, Mallory 6A, KNN air filter, Transmission Flushed new filter including inline and Mercon V. New Hedman Headers and Y-pipe into Cat delete stock exhaust. New front fuel pump and filter. New 38 gallon conversion rear tank and fuel pump. Air pump delete. New IAC valve. Timing set to stock. oil just changed Valvoline high mileage full synthetic, KNN oil filter , Lucas Full Synthetic oil Stabilizer, Injectors cleaned on truck with Berrymans, Entire cooling system has been thoroughly flushed. New 4 core radiator and 180 degree high-flow thermostat, new belts, new water pump, new hoses, new 13lb rad cap.
So here's the problem. It gets hot under acceleration. If I do a 0 - 80 mile per hour run the temperature gauge will go from a steady "O" reading to the high side of "R" (of course I am referring to the word displayed "NORMAL").. if I am Towing 0 - 65 mile per hour run will put the Gage to a solid "A" Reading then drop quickly once the throttle is lifted. It can idle all day long with the AC on and it will not come above the"O". I would normally think that this has caused buy a stuck thermostat however the thermostat is new and a stuck thermostat while running easy, would most likely cause the lowest temperature to be around the letter "N" on the gauge. I have no condensation coming out of the exhaust whatsoever except what is normally associated with first start up on a full exhaust system. I have no additional pressure or bubbling in the radiator. I have no foreign fluid in the radiator either from oil or transmission fluid being introduced. And I have no coolant contaminants in the oil at all which would normally indicate a head gasket or intake issues. This is definitely a concern because Towing an RV in hilly conditions will allow the gauge to climb rapidly. The bigger the hill the longer and harder the acceleration the higher the temperature will climb. I am stumped.
Ok so here here goes I have a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 triton it seems to be over heating but the gage stays in the normal operating temperature range. I just changed the water pump. Could it be the thermostat and Would it hurt to remove the thermostat until I can get one...
View 8 Repliesmy truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
View 6 Replies I am having some trouble with my 4R100 overheating.
Truck is a 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L with 244k miles on it. According to previous owner, the transmission was replaced around 185/190k but there was no paperwork to prove it.
I recently had a leak from one of transmission lines coming into the bottom of the radiator (the one on the passenger side). I replaced it and topped off the little bit of fluid that leaked out. Last weekend I installed a temp sensor in the transmission and hooked it up to my pillar gauges. The first few days driving with it, the temp was at/around 180 degrees, 25-30 degree outside air, unloaded on the highway averaging 70-75mph.
Today on the way home, the temp got to 180 after 35-40min of driving then continue climbing. I pulled off the highway after 1.5hrs and the temp was almost at 210 degrees. I let it idle for 5-10min and the temp didn't change. I turned it off and let it sit for 15 min. Upon starting it back up, the temp had dropped to 180. I continued driving and the temp climbed back up to 210 within 35 minutes. (65-75mph, 24 degree outside temp, unloaded). Once off the highway I averaged 35-45mph on the back roads to my house. The temp started to drop back towards 180 degrees.
Before I start throwing money at it, and installing a 6.0 cooler etc. I am thinking there is something else wrong here. I am going to look at new lines and replacing/repairing the bypass valve on the transmission. I am driving 2hrs to work each way and thats when the temp really starts to go up. The fluid doesnt smell burnt, its still nice and red. I am going to try and flush the lines this weekend and see if something is plugged/caught. I ordered an inline filter today and will put that in with a new hose from the transmission to the radiator (old one is rusted).
Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.