2012 F-250, it sounds like a rock or something in my left front brake cover?? I only hear it when I come to a stop or just start out, sounds like a stone or something coming to rest like if you had a stone in a drying machine coming to rest when you shut it off. But I don't hear it at all over 10mph?
View 4 RepliesAny good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
View 1 Replies2012 F450 Dually King Ranch 4x4 - I have read many threads on front end noise. I started hearing a noise when I turned left or right and then slowly run over a speed bump. I listen to music at an average sound and I picked up on the front end noise. For some reason you can hear it in the driver seat better.
Anyway I took the vehicle in and the mechanic said he didn't hear anything. I thought, he forget his hearing aid today? I have this expensive warranty plan that would actually cover a few items in the front end but Ford is claiming they don't hear anything.
In their defense I have figured it out why. When the temps are below 40 the noise gets louder and I think by the time they looked at it (8 hours after I brought it in, 5:00pm) the day was warmer.
Last couple drives I have noticed some front end noise on the left side. Back in May I also noticed grease all over behind the rotor. I believe this is the grease inserted via ABS hole into the unit bearing. I do not hear the needle bearing crunching while driving and did not here it in May either. I also attempted to move the unit-bearing up and down thinking the axle seal was toast but it seemed solid at the time.
Today I hear some noise while turning left which lead to the pictures below. Wet side is Driver side, dry side is passenger. Tomorrow morning I should have some time to take a look at this more in depth. Passenger needle bearing was changed last year and no issues since then......
TRUCK: 2003 F250 S/C Long bed 4x4 7.3 Diesel
PROBLEM: grinding noise in left front when slowing and stopping.
Starts as a howling noise, turns into a grinding as you brake and come to a stop. I feel it in the pedal and as it slows it feels like metal to metal brakes
WHAT HAVE WE DONE: Replaced both front hub assemblies (MOOG)... Replaced dust shields, rotors, calipers, pads as well as all new brake hardware.
At any speed when I brake hard it grinds and howls, I have taken out the 4x4 locking hub assembly and it does not change the situation. I am stumped!
I replaced both front bearings, calipers, brake pads, now I have a grinding noise on the left side front stops sometimes when you step on the brakes? 1999 F350 ...
View 6 RepliesI got a 2001 f350 got a noise in my left front wheel i know its not the wheel bearings, it only makes the noice when the locking hub is unlocked i did jack the the truck up and spun the wheel got a faint grinding noises form what seems like the locking hub so my question is bad locking hub or needle bearing holding the axle shaft??
View 3 RepliesMy 99 F250 has just recently started making a "rattling" noise. The noise sounds like its coming from the front left wheel area. The noise is constant while driving down the road, its NOT created by bumps or anything, its a constant noise while moving.
View 3 RepliesI have a noise with my new (2.6k miles) 2000 Diesel F250 Crew Cab. When I make low speed, right turns while crossing any type of depression in the road I hear a loud knock as if the left shock is bottoming out. There's an intersection near my house with runoff depressions across the road, I almost always hear the noise when making that turn. I've occasionally heard it coming from the right side when making a left turn.
View 14 Replies2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
Well just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?
View 5 Replies2012 350, crew, 4x4, 6.7, LB. Ignition does not always engage when you turn the key (we've changed the tumbler and the batteries) after sometime the truck will start. the dome lights do not work in auto anymore and every so often the steering will "grab" to the left, when I compensate it will switch to the right. I can drive from 20 - 300 miles sometimes before it does this and then it may or may not come out of it right within 5 - 20 minutes.
View 1 RepliesI recently took delivery of a new 2012 F250. It was a cab chassis, we had a utility bed and lift gate installed from the upfitter along with heavy rear springs. From day one the truck would pull left when the brakes were applied. The brake pedal also feels mushy, not firm. It will firm up when I pump it. I could also smell burning around the left front of the truck when I would get out of the cab. Hot brake smell. Took it to the dealer with only 400 miles on it and they replaced the front pads and turned the rotors, and gave it back. In relatively few miles the problem was right back again.
Took it back to the same dealer last week with 1200 miles on it now. This time they say they replaced the rotors. I went and picked it up it this morning. Within 5 miles drive of the dealership I can tell the brakes are still bad. Now, it will kind of do a "head fake" when the brakes are applied, pulling slightly left or right, before deciding which way it wants to pull. It will pull right or left now during firm braking. And the brakes were stinking by the time I had it back to them. I turned around and took it right back to them again. Brand new F250?
I noticed a slight whistle last year coming from my front left hub. I pulled the hub and greased the gears as best I could and it sort of went away. Now this year it is a little louder. It only happens when the hub is locked. Is starts around 20mph and goes away at 40. Is the bearing in the hub shot or is this normal. 4x4 works fine and there is no visible excess wear on the gears. The truck has 93k.
View 6 RepliesThe truck in my sig. makes a clicking noise when it's in the park and I press the brake pedal down. The click is coming from somewhere up high in the steering column. It doesn't make the clicking noise in any other gear only in park. Might be normal but I don't remember hearing it before?
View 9 Replies1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
I have a 99 F-250 extended cab superduty 4 wd with the 7.3. I also plow during the winter. Recently I've noticed wear on the inside of the left front tire. Brought it to a tire shop and had them check the front end and alignment. They told me that the specs were "within" tolerances" for my truck. I'm stumped as to why the abnormal wear if everything is supposedly good with the alignment.
View 5 RepliesIve got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
View 14 Replies1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2006 Ford F350 4x4 Crew Cab. I think the radius arm bushings on my truck are bad. I get a clunk going over bumps on the left side in the front end.
I'm assuming it is the bushing in the rear of the radius arm, but I haven't taken it apart yet because I want to have the parts in hand. I ordered a bushing, part number 5C3Z3B203AA. But it looks too small when I hold it up to it. What is the part numbers for the radius arm bushings?
Or am I looking at the wrong thing for the clunking in the front end? I just did the ball joints with Moog both sides top and bottom. The shock bushings look alright. I have replaced the front sway bar bushings thinking that was it. What else could it be?