Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2012 - Heater Fan Work Intermittently?
Sep 26, 2013
This morning on my way to work in my 2012 F-250 I turned the heater on, controlling the temp from the temperature control. When the truck got up to temperature the heater fan would not come on accordingly to bring the inside of the truck up to the temperature that I had selected on the controls, so I tried operate the fan manually and it still didn't turn on. Once at work I didn't have really have time to look at anything with it, I did however shut the truck off and start it again and still nothing. Then after I got off work, driving home still nothing until I was about half way home then all of the sudden it started working again. I'd sure hate to have this happen again later this winter when the temperature gets below zero outside.
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I have a 07 F650 crewcab with a Cat engine. The air-condition and heater fan work intermittently no rime or reason to it, be driving down the road and it quites, then maybe a few hours later and it will start. A few days ago my wife turned on the key and the fan was working and then yesterday she turned the key on and it wasn't. When I bought it I watched them replace the fan and it worked for a few hundred mile then stopped, for the rest of the trip it was on and off. I replace the resistor and spliced on a new electrical connector, but still have the same problems....
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2013 F250 Lariat. 4000 miles total on it. over half are a highway.Just wrapped up a trip up to Canada and back with work, not towing anything, and noticed on straight highway, i need to keep the wheel turned at roughly between 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock... to go straight. Much of the time.
Some of the time, its normal, straight and true, but after 400 miles straight, when my left arm is tired because of holding tension into the steering system to go straight.......
Wondering if there is known steering drift with our trucks (like my dodge hemi had prior, which needed a stabilizer added from hell bent steel) or if this may be an issue. Not looking to bring it the hour back to the dealer, for him to tell me its just fine, because its heading true at the moment.
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Have a 2012 350 cclb 4x4 6.7 lariat, interior lights don't work. Not with any door open, Not with switch. map lights work. We've checked every fuse in cab and under hood. What to check now ?
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Do the raptor style boards will work on an F250, 2012?
I hate the stock ones and want something closer to the body and has some rocker panel protection. Alternatives are welcome but not 1k ones.
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I just purchased a '12 f250 Lariat w/ 39k miles. When I got home I noticed one of the three LED running board lights does not work on the passenger side. Can I replace this myself?
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When I bought my truck it didn't have the block heater installed, asked the dealership to put it on with the deal, but they didn't have one there. How hard it is to install one? Also what brand should I go with? (On my '16)
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How to troubleshoot?
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ESOF not going into 4wd at all, except once in a blue moon... for a few times. All relays and fuses tested, swapped with known good units.
NO 4x4 light. so its electrical related. My hubs function like they should. when they are told to. I recently just swapped esof motor/gearbox on the TC. Worked 2x in the garage, went for a spin down the road, went into 2wd and stayed, wouldn't go back into 4hi brought it back inside, dinked around with resetting the GEM fuse. started working good. drove around and switched in and out of 4wd like 20 times no issues. next day, tried to go back into 4wd. nothing. Bring it back in the garage.
CURRENT DIAGNOSIS: Siting inside right now, If I flip the switch, I don't get anything. normally, that triggers the vacuum pump to suck hubs in. That doesn't turn on, the relays under the hood don't click. so it seems I am back up to the switch or GEM, or wires between.... Any test layout for how to test the switch in the dash? seems to be fairly simple, but I just wanted an exact view of what i need to test.
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I've got a 01 sbcc 2wd 5.4 gasser and I've gone thru 3 heater cores in 18 months. Is there something I'm missing?
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So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
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I got my 1999 f250 super duty v10 about a month ago. It had 200,700 some miles on it. It's now at 201,865. My issue is when I turn on my heater I smell coolant. It's kinda strong. No leaks that I can see. Not in the ground or in the cab or from what I can see of the heater core. It only smells when the heat is on, no smell on the cold setting. It sat for months before I bought it from a dealership. What it could be? Ok now it sounds like I have the ticking death sound. The one people have said happens when spark plugs are about to fail. So I guess new plugs are in order.
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So when i shut my truck off the heater will occasional keep blowing. it also has a string of LED type lights inside the dash by the speedometer, those also stay on sometimes. It's happened before and we thought we had it fixed. We had a whole new fuse box put in and some kind of module. What could be the problem? I am thinking maybe some kind of wiring?
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2001 F250 5.4. The heater will blow warm air at idle and on the second highest setting, once you start moving or turn the fan up to full blast it instantly cools off. The coolant level is fine. The engine runs at a normal temp.The blend door does work. I just replaced the thermostat, and both hoses for the heater core are hot.
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My 2006 F-250 SD with 6.0 diesel has some sort of cut-out for the heater circuit, and possibly for the A/C as well. This truck was probably a fleet vehicle for the Houston Port Authority. Didn't really notice this peculiarity until it got really cold outside. If I start the truck up and let it idle for 10-15 minutes the water and transmission temperature get up to the normal operating ranges but the heater/defrost circuit does not heat up. Cannot defrost the windshield.
If I drive to the end of my driveway, about 600 feet, the heater/defroster starts putting out good heat. When driving, if I have to stop at a stoplight, or any other pause, with the truck still in gear, the heater output starts to cool down. I suspect that this feature was incorporated in the circuitry at the factory to prevent the driver from sitting still to keep warm. The truck MUST BE MOVING to allow heat or defrost to operate. The blower motor operates and it doesn't matter if the truck is in gear or not.
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I have a 2000 I got new in sept of 99 its a good truck and id like to keep it as long as I can its got 173,000 on it I take care of it garaged kept and consistent fluid/filter changes all over top and bottom few minor addons like turbo bak exhaust from Silverline,auto meter gauges so I can monitor temps ,a bigger transmission pan aluminum I did years ago ,a gear vendor 8 speed addon years ago,diablo predator tuner with the 80 horse tune been doing great for a quite a while lately I noticed if I leave it idling in park for a few minutes while in a store r sumpn it won't shift outa 3rd its like overdrive is turned off I have to pull over and kill&restart 7.3 and take off its fine what in the wide wide world a sports is happening my overdrive switch has been out for a couple years I just haven't replaced it yet it gradually got worse when using it id have to pull shift lever in to get it to engage then put in neutral then in park now cant get it to work at all hopefully I can fix it myself but my luck is never that good.
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I have a 2003 6.0 Auto that has an intermittent non cranking issue. Once it does crank it fires right up. Usually when it doesn't crank, I just keep trying the ignition until finally something connects and it will begin to crank and then start. Sometimes I can try it twice, other times I may sit there for 5 minutes fighting with it. My only issue is, I need to get this problem fixed before it becomes a bigger issue.
I don't think it is the ignition itself. When I am attempting to crank I can see the window switch lights and other things going off when I crank it which I though was normal when the starter is operating.
My first thought is the transmission range sensor which I am trying to locate. I looked on the transmission itself which seemed to make sense but I wasn't seeing anything familiar. Someone hinted it might be under the dash above the brake pedal but I am not seeing anything jumping out at me.
I also question the starter itself, but I hear no noise coming from it at all when the problem shows itself. No clunk or anything. Which makes me think something is causing the circuit to not function properly.
The other thought I had is a possibility in the wiring somewhere. Maybe a bad ground on one of the batteries? I have a brand new factory positive aux cable so I think I can scratch that off the list. The batteries are also charged as well, but cannot rule out the possibility that maybe one is bad since I did not install them. But I can make sure they are both charged, and the issue remains. Where I should check?
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I have a 2011 F250 6.2 xlt 221k miles. I have an issue where my AC works sometimes and other times it doesn't work. On the occasion it will work kind of, meaning that it will blow cold for a few seconds (when the compressor clutch engages, but as soon as the clutch disengages I get warm air. My low pressure is at about 30psi and the high is about 140psi (seems low to me). When I bought the truck the a.c. didn't work at all. I pulled a vacuum and put the recommended 29oz of 134a in it. When it works its VERY cold. There doesn't seem to be any ryme or reason (temp, humidity, drive time) as to if it works or not. On occasion (not working) I have been able to turn off the a.c. for a couple minutes and when I turn it on it works.
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ABS light has been coming on intermittently the last few days. Checked the resevoir for fluid level...topped up a bit. Changed the oil today and looked at the sensor connectors on the front brakes...ok... Got a new speed sensor and installed it....ABS is still on. Checked the old sensor with my meter and it is open circuit....no continuity, so I'm thinking it was the problem.. Is there something that has to be reset for the fault to clear, say with a code reader etc?
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My fan control went out yesterday (hot day with no A/C), It comes back on at times, but if it's on three it may only blow like it's on one. What I need to replace??
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A few weeks ago I was towing my 16 X 7 about 300 miles and I noticed that the transmission was whining.
Driven it about 600 miles unloaded with no issues. I do notice when I hit the gas it takes a second to engage..a little jerky...but normal otherwise. I don't drive the truck as a DD, so I tend not to notice things as easily.
Towed it 100 miles yesterday, and 100 miles back home today. Was silent until the last 20 miles...whining again.
What gives? I did have it serviced and inspected a few months ago because I felt like it was a little jerky. Got a clean bill of health from the local diesel shop.
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