Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2012 F250 - Replacing Shocks And Airbags?
Feb 5, 2015
I have a 2012 F250 King Ranch with the FX4 package. I have a goose neck ball and have recently bought a 37' fifth wheel. The rear of my truck sits a touch lower than the front and anytime I'm hooked to a trailer it looks to be squatted way down. It actually is dropping maybe 3". I am looking to replace the shocks which are Rancho's as I have 55k miles on. I'm wondering about shock types, air bags, springs??? Just don't know what my best option is.
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
It is about time to replace the shocks on my truck but I am going back and forth between shocks... I have 37s and the ride is rough to say the least I am looking for something to make it feel like I am not riding around on a jack hammer every time I hit a rock.
Dual set up in the front and single in the back and I have steering stabilizers installed.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1991 f250 that used to have a camper on it, I recently got this truck and when I put an older heavy camper on it the back springs flattened out and the front raised about an inch or two.
My question is...I am going to put air bags on this truck to alleviate this problem, should I replace the springs as well or will the air bags be sufficient to handle a camper?
View 1 Replies
I just picked up a 14 F-250 with 6.2 engine. the shocks are leaking, and before I order new ones I want get opinions. I was looking at Bilstein 5100 series. 24-186025 for the rear, and 24-186018 for the front. are these the best, or should i get something else.
View 3 Replies
I just replaced the head lights on my 2001 f250 it had the sealed beam one-piece glass headlights and I replaced those with regular headlights and when I went to get bulbs I found out after I get home the connector is different from the new bulbs. the new bulbs fit correctly but I can not hook plug them the plug has 3 connectors that have two connectors level and one is higher than the other two and the new bulbs the three prongs are level.
My question is. is there another bulb that will fit and plugin and if so what is the part number? is there a adapter that I can get that will allow the factory plug to work? or will I need to cut the old plug off and splice a new connector on?
View 8 Replies
My 1999 F250 won't start ever since I replaced the o ring where the dipstick meets the oil pan. Started it when I was finished it ran for a minute and shut off, the truck was on a slope my low fuel light was on. I have it sitting on the flat now but still not starting but turns over?
View 1 Replies
I plan on replacing the brake lines on our 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty. The rear line blew out right by the hose, on the framerail. All five lines, all five hoses. What size lines? Looks like front two are 3/16", rear two over the axle are 3/16", and the rear line in the frame is 1/4".
We are removing the bed (2013 bed) to make things easier. I am thinking fuel lines and parking brake cable while the bed is off. I have stainless steel hoses from KLM performance and I am also planning on replacing the rear rubber hoses. Obviously I'm using nickel copper line. There shouldn't even be an option for other brake line.
[URL].....
View 5 Replies
I'm looking at replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 02 f-250, it's a 7.3L.
Looking at them on line there are many different brands. What have you used on your 7.3L, and which has worked the best for you?
View 4 Replies
I waned to know if I get a set of airbags for my f350 dully would it de hard to install
View 6 Replies
I am having some trouble with my 4R100 overheating.
Truck is a 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L with 244k miles on it. According to previous owner, the transmission was replaced around 185/190k but there was no paperwork to prove it.
I recently had a leak from one of transmission lines coming into the bottom of the radiator (the one on the passenger side). I replaced it and topped off the little bit of fluid that leaked out. Last weekend I installed a temp sensor in the transmission and hooked it up to my pillar gauges. The first few days driving with it, the temp was at/around 180 degrees, 25-30 degree outside air, unloaded on the highway averaging 70-75mph.
Today on the way home, the temp got to 180 after 35-40min of driving then continue climbing. I pulled off the highway after 1.5hrs and the temp was almost at 210 degrees. I let it idle for 5-10min and the temp didn't change. I turned it off and let it sit for 15 min. Upon starting it back up, the temp had dropped to 180. I continued driving and the temp climbed back up to 210 within 35 minutes. (65-75mph, 24 degree outside temp, unloaded). Once off the highway I averaged 35-45mph on the back roads to my house. The temp started to drop back towards 180 degrees.
Before I start throwing money at it, and installing a 6.0 cooler etc. I am thinking there is something else wrong here. I am going to look at new lines and replacing/repairing the bypass valve on the transmission. I am driving 2hrs to work each way and thats when the temp really starts to go up. The fluid doesnt smell burnt, its still nice and red. I am going to try and flush the lines this weekend and see if something is plugged/caught. I ordered an inline filter today and will put that in with a new hose from the transmission to the radiator (old one is rusted).
View 2 Replies
Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
View 2 Replies
I have a sensor module mounted on the frame right where I need to put the upper bracket for the air bag on the passenger side rear . called e-trailer and they had no clue . special kit for 2011-2013 4x4 diesel 2535. What to do????
View 7 Replies
I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
View 14 Replies
I'm replacing tow mirrors on my 2004 F250 with 2008 mirrors. Both are factory Ford mirrors. Need wiring diagram since connectors and wires are different. They both have power mirrors, turn signals, heated mirrors, but are not power retract or fold.
View 1 Replies
I read in a thread about how fog lights need the auto light sensor or something in the kit to be installed and flashed.
My truck is a 2012 f250 XLT that I bought left over from a podunk town IN illinois. It does not have fog lights but it Does have automatic head lamps. So Im very confused on what kit to order to add fog lights to my truck.
View 3 Replies
2012 F-250 6.2 gas 4X4 SC/SB: when I run WOT, or near that, from a slow speed, I hear a short "hiss" between the 1-2, 2-3, and i think 3-4 shifts. I can also feel that the engine eases up quite a bit during the shift, and it is kind of a slow, soft shift. It has about 2,000 miles on it. I bought it in March 2013 as a leftover (great price!). The door sticker says it was manufactured in 4/2012, so it sat on the lot for quite a while before i bought it. But i don't remember it doing this when it was newer (~500 miles).
With the lite weight of this configuration (it is an XL so it isn't even carrying around 4 speakers ha ha), and me rarely carrying a very heavy load (yet) or towing anything, I rarely have to step on it very much in normal driving... it hardly ever gets above 2,500 rpm unless I am just running it faster for fun.
The hiss and slow shift happen at any transmission temperature. Of course, it never has been above the left side of the "gear" pic on the temp gauge, where it always is after full warm-up. Well, I'm hoping it is just shifting soft like this because it has "learned" my lite-foot driving style (even when I'm in a hurry of course the engine rarely has to work very hard).
View 3 Replies
I've got a 2012 F250 XLT with AM/FM/CD/AUX radio, and the display is not working. The radio functions fine, as do all other electronics on the truck, but the display is dark. I've tried pulling Fuse #29 in the passenger kick panel, and it looked fine. Is my radio toast?
View 3 Replies
I just purchased 4 front and 2 rear Bilstein shocks for my F350 and will be installing them today, but my question is I have seen them mounted 2 ways (With the rubber boot up and also inverted) which is the correct way?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2012 F250, 6.2L, Crew Cab, FX4 with a little over 77,000 miles on it. I bought it used from a Ford dealership last summer. Prior to now, I've only had one issue with it and that was squirrel/rodent induced. Something chewed through the wiring harness right before the connection to the #7 cylinder. There was enough left over wire to solder it back together and put heat shrink around each wire.
It ran fine up until last weekend. The wife and I went to a store, she was driving and parked like a total jerk right in the front area of the parking lot. When we got back in the truck, she started it up and it was just running rough with hardly any power. My first thought was someone dumped something into the gas due to her amazing parking, but there were no smells or residue of anything near the gas cap when we got home only a couple miles away.
When I got home I ran my code scanner and found 300, 301, 305, 307, and 308. I dumped a bottle of ISO-Heet in it, let it sit for a bit then cranked her up and ran it for a few miles to the gas station and filled up...about 25/26 gallons, I don't remember...I was a little above 1/4 tank when this all started. No change in performance and the codes were all still the same. I pulled the MAF, it looked clean, but I wiped it down anyways and threw it back in. No change. I then changed all the plugs. This took care of 301 and 305 but 300, 307, and 308 were still coming up. I then picked up two new coil packs for cylinders 7 and 8, threw them on and still no change.
I sat with it running on a flat surface for a little while revving the engine randomly for about 15 minutes, during this I noticed a fast tapping noise at about 3400 RPM, it went away quickly with no changes in the gauges on the dash. I cant really tell where it's coming from, but kinda sounds like its under the middle of the truck. While sitting there I ran the codes again, and now its back to 300, 301, 307, and 308. I'm now at a loss of what to even look at...
I've also checked the voltage coming off the harness at the connector to the coil packs...just under 11 volts. I've searched all over for what that voltage is supposed to be, but have failed miserably in my searches.
View 6 Replies
I just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
View 6 Replies
I've been noticing a grinding coming from the front end of my 2012 f250 4x4, mostly while turning. It seems like its worse over uneven terrain, bumpy dirt roads, things like that, but I have noticed it on occasion while on seemingly smooth roads. Also a couple times while turning and lightly braking I could feel it interfere with the brakes. They wouldn't grab completely and you could feel the grinding in the pedal. I've been crawling around looking for rub marks or any indication of what might be causing it but until recently I hadn't noticed anything. Today though I found this. I'm guessing bad ball joint or tie rod maybe? Maybe just need alignment?
Passenger side lower control arm ...
View 11 Replies
